So I'm having a problem with my wagon, it won't start. I drove it Monday to & from work with no problems. Tuesday I took my other car to work, and decided to take my wagon out to get gas that night. It wouldn't start... the starter sounds like the plunger / solenoid / whatever is moving, but it doesn't even try to start (or make that "click of a dead starter" sound). I replaced my starter contacts about a year ago anyway. During all of this, the battery light on the dash would light up.
I cleaned up all the terminals, even going so far as to remove my negative cable and give it a thorough cleaning. (Also wrapped up a split in the insulation that has been present for a while now... continuity is fine for anyone wondering.)
I tried charging the battery (Optima yellow top #35), but that didn't help. I took the battery to the store I bought it from (which was only 4 months ago), and it tested as being bad, CCA of 410 or something. So now I have a replacement, and the wagon still won't start. New battery reads 13v.
Just a moment ago I decided to try cranking it over once again, and this time, the tach needle buzzed & moved up to around the 1k mark as I held the key in the "on" position (for as long as you would normally to try starting a car). WTF? Any advice for what may be the cause of my problem would be appreciated. I'm just starting the trouble shooting, have the FSM, just wish it was a little more detailed (like, where exactly is the starter relay located?? "Left cowl," meaning...?).
have you checked to see if the starter gear is infact comming out to try and engage the flywheel? somtimes just somtimes the starter no longer pushes up to contact the flywheel, in which case it will sound like the starter is working, but your engine wont be cranking.
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I'll have to try that later today (being past midnight right now), thanks for the tip. A friend is going to help me try chasing down the gremlin.
I bought a new main relay (the 5 terminal one in the engine bay), but that didn't help. Reason I bought it is that I did the FSM tests to it, but didn't get continuity anywhere. Starter relay had some resistance across 1 and 3 or whatever the FSM said (without 12v on two terminals), but so did a bunch of other similar relays (AC fan etc).
My friend noticed that the fuel pump wasn't priming. So there's that as well.
DId you check those three circuit breakers in the plastic housing attached to the positive batt cable? Might want to check out your ignition switch too. A third possibility would be to hold key in start position while a helper uses something to smack the starter to see if it will engage.
Looking through the plastic windows, those three fuses on the battery + cable seem fine. The cover labels them as AM2 (30A), AM1 (40A), and ALT (80A). I don't know how to remove them, though... they won't budge. Is there some special way to remove them?
Going to try checking the ignition switch next. After that, the starter... tried cleaning up the battery - cable connection on the tranny as someone mentioned to me in a PM, since the starter gets its ground from the tranny, but it still won't start... augh...
The circuit breakers are held in place by screws terminals on the side of them that are accessed on the bottom side (underneath the plastic cover . Did you also try removing plugs and putting a ratchet on crank pulley bolt to see if engine is freed up?
Will check that in a moment... my friend is over now to help out.
Quick question... do these cars have fusible links? Or does Toyota consider those three fuses in question on the + cable to be fusible links?
Edit: looking through the FSM, seems that those three fuses are considered fusible links. If I'm wrong, someone correct me.
Anyways looks like the ignition switch is bad. Any recommendations for replacing it, i.e. auto parts store replacement, Toyota OEM, etc? Having a problem removing one of the two bolts for the switch (of course).
They are fusible links I used the wrong definition. Since you have help try holding key on start while your helper gives the starter a good smack to see if it is binding up.
I'll have to try that later, though I'm pretty sure I cleaned up / greased some parts inside of the starter about a year ago when I was replacing the contacts. Right now we have the ignition switch out, and I need to find a replacement.
Noticed you have a manual.Did you check clutch pedal starter interlock switch? Try jumping the switch or check with continuity checker. Check those three fusible links on positive cable with a continuity tester too. Even though starter has been reworked it could still have issues. Try to give it a smack.The engine may have to crank to give a distributor signal for fuel pump to run other than initial fuel line pressurizing. Here's link to a wiring diagram if you don't have one in your FSM
The circuit opening relay that controls the fuel pump is under the center console trim, to the right of the drivers foot well. It is beside the ECU.
So I dug around and found this post. I tried the same trick, jumping the wires to prime the fuel pump since it's not priming when the key is turned. The pump will prime when those diagnostic connectors are jumped, but the engine still won't start. Augh...
Where is this fuel pump relay? FSM doesn't seem to be telling me (vague as always). I have a wagon, not a coupe or sedan. I have the plastic panel covering the ECU on the driver side pulled away... I can see it and the connectors running to it, but no relays there.
Another thought and a long shot. I remember reading before that there is a factory splice that is subject to corroding and failing. It's I believe a white/black wire and inside the loom in the region between the battery and heading toward the rear (firewall). I opened up the loom and hunted till I found it .I didn't have to go too far to find it ( approx in region under the air filter box region). Mine was good but it is a major wire that powers alot and leads from one of the fusible links on the pos cable so it might be worth checking out.
The Following User Says Thank You to 90 GP For This Useful Post:
Now this is nuts... I decided to try the check engine / diagnostic code to see if anything would come up. Brief summary of the video description, I put the key in and leave it at the ON position. Dash lights (and chime) go crazy. On & off, flashing, but with the battery indicator staying on. When I jumper the T and E1 connectors on the diag. connector per the FSM, there's a continuous ticking sound coming from what seems to be the starter. WTF??
Also for future reference to anyone else who stumbles in here, this is where the fusible links are, and this gives you an idea of how to remove them. (Green one can be simply pulled up, it's not screwed down.) I almost broke the now-brittle plastic cover in the front trying to remove it. The back one was pretty obvious, just needed a small flathead screwdriver to pop it open (though the hinge broke, it still pops back in fine). Top cover hinge also broke yonks ago.
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Tach needle spins when trying to start motor??
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