6th Gen 92 Corolla Rack and Pinion Inner Tie Rod Ends - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

timjamz · 01-14-2012, 12:39 PM

Hello! I've been lurking on TN for years, but finally have a question I couldn't find an answer for.

Inner and outer tie rod ends are shot on both sides of my 92 Corolla 4AFE. I'm told by the local Toyota/Lexus specialist that mine has a sealed rack, and best bet is to get a reman rack. I'm pretty handy and do all the maintenance on my vehicles, save for major engine/trans repair. So, I have a few questions:

1) Outers: just pop the old ones off and put on new ones to the same rotation/rod position as the old ones to shadetree alignment specs. Sound about right? (I'm about to get out in the back yard and do this today)

2) Inners: do you agree with the specialist's recommendation of just replacing the rack (all the reman racks I've found online come complete with the inners and tie rods)? If so, I've poked around and seen statements that it's simple from underneath (hyd lines and 4 bolts), or a total pain to get done as it is bolted in behind motor block bolts (or something like that). Opinions and suggestions?

3) Inners: what kind of safety concerns do I have with worn inners ("worn" = a good half inch of give/take on either side of the rack)? Looking at the design of them, I'm more concerned with outers shearing off than the tension/compression on inners. Again, opinions and suggestions?

Most of all, thanks to all of you folks who are so involved at TN forums. The information I've found here over the years has been invaluable. Now that I've joined, I hope I can contribute some of what I've learned and experienced as a backyard shadetree Toyota technician.

Any help is much appreciated!!!

SuperRA · 01-14-2012, 02:03 PM

That "specialist" is crap. I have two inner tie rod ends in my parts collection. They are meant to be removable. You'll have to remove the bellows to get to it, but its just a matter of a couple clamps. I'd replace the bellows also while you're at it. If indeed the loose play you are describing is coming from the tie rods, then new parts should fix it right up. No need to change the rack unless there's something wrong with it.

As for safety concerns, any worn steering component in my opinion is unsafe. Yea there are levels of unsafe-ness, but you don't want to find out what that is during loss of control..

timjamz · 01-14-2012, 02:46 PM

Thanks for the quick feedback! Are you sure I can do that on a 92 Corolla? It's one of the hybrid GM/Toyota deals. Looking at it while I'm doing the outers, I see the bellows and the inner connection (one of the bellows/boots has this really convenient "window" aka massive tear in it hehehe) I checked the retail auto parts places online, and it looks like the inner is manufactured onto the end of the rod, but like you said is serviceable!

The rack leaks, so maybe I got confused and combined "replace the rack" and "sealed inner ends" advice from the specialist; it's been months since I had them look... they're actually very good! I won't say the name, but they're the go-to private Toyota specialist where I live and have a great reputation.

Anyway, thanks again!!! You got me looking closer, and there's actually only like 1/4" play in the inner tie rod end on the driver's side. The other side has about a 1/16" bit of play. I can live with that until I can get new rods. Downside, looks like I have to drop the crossmember to get to the one on the driver's side. Not much fun in the back yard under a shade tree with a small shop jack and cinder blocks

rdyzz · 01-14-2012, 06:47 PM

yup as SuperRA said the inner tie rod is replaceable, the steering boots hide them. however if you rack is leaking its the rack you need to replace and its better to get a reman one. im not even sure of the amout of work it would take for someone to rebuild it, but if you dont trust yourself to do the rebuild save the headache and buy a reman one.

to replace the rack, i would advise you to drop the whole front crossmember. trust me it will make your life easyier, i know i've tried going the easy route and did twice the amount of work. a reman rack will come with NEW inner tie rods, it might come with outter tie rods too, but i doubt it its been awhile and i didnt remember any outter tie rods that came with mine.

upnsmoke92 · 01-15-2012, 12:49 AM

There should be absolutely no play in inner tie rod ends. With the outers disconnected, they should resist slightly as you move them up and down. If they are loose enough to move easily, and just drop down when you let go of them, they need to be replaced. Anything more than that would worry me and I would replace them first chance I got. Be sure though, that the play is in the tie rods, not elsewhere. That said, I have done a number of inner tie rods on these cars, and they are a little bit of a pain, but if you are mechanically inclined in the least, you will get through the job fine. I will be doing this on my 92 soon. I'll take some pictures and try to get a step by step put up when I can. Don't count on me to beat you to it though, I'm known to procrastinate. Should you go ahead with it, measure from the center of the joint on the outer tie rod to the beginning of the inner tie rod (like to the back of the nut) on both sides for a reference. This gives you a starting point when you go back together with it, and gets you close enough to drive it a while before you get an alignment if need be. As far as the rack leaking, rebuild kits are available. A new rack is a little steep, but it's your decision what your time is worth, and how long you can be without the car. Hard to beat the convenience of a new one with inners and bellows already installed.

cEtnA · 01-15-2012, 03:15 AM

In all honesty if you plan to keep the car for a while just get a new rack. i mean the cars over 20 years

blb · 01-15-2012, 11:03 AM

Replacing the inner tie rods is literally a 20 minute job (per side), especially if you buy the special tool that is made for the job. I just did this job using the tool sold at Harbor Freight for about $27.00 (using their 20% off coupon). To replace the inner tie rod, remove the wheel, pop off the outer tie rod joint and unscrew it from the inner tie rod, remove the boot clamp from the rack and slide the protective boot off of the inner tie rod, unbend the tangs on the washer between the end of the inner tie rod and the rack, use the special tool to slide over the inner tie rod, insert the correct insert in the tool, and spin it off. Replacement is reverse of disassembly. Use a plastic wire tie to resecure the protective boot, since you normally have to destroy the original clamp on the rack end to remove it.

If the rack end is just damp and not dripping fluid, and if you don't have to top off the power steering reservoir more than once a year, there is no way I would go through the aggrevation and expense of replacing the entire rack in a vehicle this old. Chances are the rebuilt rack you buy won't be as good as the OEM Toyota original anyway.

Be sure to get an alignment done immediately after replacing the inner tie rods.

Good luck.

upnsmoke92 · 01-15-2012, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blb

If the rack end is just damp and not dripping fluid, and if you don't have to top off the power steering reservoir more than once a year, there is no way I would go through the aggrevation and expense of replacing the entire rack in a vehicle this old. Chances are the rebuilt rack you buy won't be as good as the OEM Toyota original anyway.

Be sure to get an alignment done immediately after replacing the inner tie rods.

Good luck.

I agree about the rack. What does that tool look like? You would think I would have one, as many of these as I have done. As far as an alignment, just get yourself one of these-http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL10118/

blb · 01-15-2012, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upnsmoke92

I agree about the rack. What does that tool look like? You would think I would have one, as many of these as I have done.

Go the Harbor Freight website and look for item number 96558.

Or google "harbor freight 96558"

It's essentially a hollow tube that you slip the inner tie rod through after you remove the outer tie rod and rack boot. Then you insert the proper sized adapter that is included with the set and the adapter is kind of like a crows foot wrench that fits over the flats on the tie rod end. You then turn the tool with a 1/2" drive breaker bar or wratchet and spin it right off.

It's on the website for $39.99, but it was on sale at my local HF store for around $34.00 and then I used a 20% coupon to bring it down to around $27.00. On top of that I had another coupon for a free screwdriver set or LED flashlight with any purchase.

upnsmoke92 · 01-15-2012, 04:56 PM

I looked that tool up and I can see where it could be a help. Those things are a pain to turn sometimes.

SuperRA · 01-16-2012, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timjamz

The rack leaks, so maybe I got confused and combined "replace the rack" and "sealed inner ends" advice from the specialist; it's been months since I had them look... they're actually very good! I won't say the name, but they're the go-to private Toyota specialist where I live and have a great reputation.

Anyway, thanks again!!! You got me looking closer, and there's actually only like 1/4" play in the inner tie rod end on the driver's side. The other side has about a 1/16" bit of play. I can live with that until I can get new rods. Downside, looks like I have to drop the crossmember to get to the one on the driver's side. Not much fun in the back yard under a shade tree with a small shop jack and cinder blocks

Oh ok, that may be the misunderstanding. If your rack leaks I would recommend replacing it as well. I thought you meant they wanted to replace the whole rack to fix the worn tie rods.

Which by the way sound to me to be way too worn. Like it was mentioned already, any play that you can feel like that is alot. I'd work on getting all that stuff fixed up right away.