Issues after installing new carb

[Finnish_EK_Racer]

gl OP.....just keep it simple.

[vachoseblows]

From left to right if looking directly at it, it's the left one I broke and I haven't figured out a way to rig something to hook up that vac line again. I spent some time reading a thread on here that was incredibly informative and from that I believe that the line I currently don't have connected controls the A/F mixture for the primary jets

Hi vachoseblows here. Does your EBCV have 4 hoses going to it and if so yes the one on the far left goes to the primary jet. The carb will run very lean if that hose is disconnected.


Retiredat44 posted the following link, but the EBCV on a Tercel is not the same as a EBCV on a 88/89 corolla. The pic of the Tercel EBCV is below I will try to find a pic of the corolla EBCV.

if a steel tube a rubber vacuum line connect to, got broke off or bent, it can be replace,, a good autoshop can fix it or youmight be able to buy the pieces from a junk yard.. maybe take a digital picture and post it..

I found a link with photos of those parts (different car):



87-90 Tercel Weber 32/36 DGEV Swap Guide
__________________

Here is the pic of the 88/89 LE corolla EBCV picture from auto zone thanks that i could borrow it



Top row of 3 hoses from left right (a,b,c)
a)to primary jet
b) to secondary jet
c)to idle jet
the lower hose goes to manifold vacuum thru a check valve

on the 89 corolla, this device is called an "EBCV" but it is in fact 2 devices in 1. There is a HAC and an EBCV in the one device. so dont get too confused now

[retiredat44]

OH my freakiking *&%# I just recognized the part you are talking about...!
the reason why I got excited is because every couple of years my 89 Corolla SR5 fails smog... last time around that part failed, and they replaced it,, they actually got a part from Toyota and they paid $900.00 for that part!! No B.S.!

I actually didn't pay that amount the state of California payed it, because I qualified for a program the State has where they will pay for repairs if you meet certain income qualifications..
but my point is that little POS part, that mount in the rear right (passenger side) of the engine bay, looks like it is worth $10.00 (it fits in the palm of your hand). I bet an junkyard would have one for $2.00. Yet, Toyota charged $900.00 !!



my wife had the car right now so I can't take a picture until she comes back from work...
it looks just like the EBCV from Autozone posted in the last post.

the color of it is brown.

[vachoseblows]

Retiredat44

That is alot of money for a cheap valve!!. I know that toyota parts are expensive. A TVSV for an 89 corolla le is 300 dollars. That was a price quote from a local dealer just a few months ago. Toyota knows that all TVSV fail after about 50k and they are a real headache to diagnos. How they could charge $300 for a valve that they know to be defective is beyond me. Yet Toyota, the Federal Canada and California smog people are not to be questioned while millions of dollars are wasted buying these new defective straight from the box parts.

I'm not singling out Toyota - every car maker today has defective parts to some degree. What bugs me is why the car makers don't offer work arounds for free? after all, they are the engineers right? The car buyer should not be liable to pay for bad engineering and over inflated parts that don't work

Hey retiredat44, a pic of the EBCV would be nice then I could give autozones pic back.

[retiredat44]

I suppose,, it really just that ugly brown valve in the rear passenger side, just under the hood by the fender.. ... with a plug on top with wires and small vacum hoses... lower..

[vachoseblows]

retiredat44
Thanks for the photos.

I can't believe they tried to charge you $900 for that valve.

[retiredat44]

Originally Posted by vachoseblows

retiredat44
Thanks for the photos. thats the EBCV for sure but . . . I can't use the pics for 2 reasons
1) the resolution is too low- need more pixels - at least 100kbyte file size
2) the 4 vac hoses that connect to the EBCV are obscured.

I can't believe they (who's they) tried to charge you $900 for that valve. The expensive part of that valve is the internal HAC which contains an atmospheric bellows. If you live below 4900 feet altitude the HAC never operates it just sits there. Imagine that, a Federally mandated valve that never gets a chance to operate, it just waits for it's moment of glory at 4900 feet. I guess if you live on the side of mount Fuji you are in luck.

did you click on the pictures??, those are only thumbnails... if you click on those they will become very large..

[zythr]

Originally Posted by Lightning

Hello to all!! I have a 1988 Toyota Corolla LE as my daily driver. It has 215k miles with the original motor and carb(till recently). I love this car to death and I will forever support the claim that these were some of the best cars ever built. I have always done most of the work on this car and enjoyed it very much as it is quite simple to work on. Alas, my luck has run out and I can't seem to figure something out that's wrong with it currently.

Ok so here is the backstory to my situation. In May, my car stopped in the middle of driving and I had to get it towed home. I left home for the Summer but I had someone start the car a couple times a week (It started up a few days after being towed home). It would start and idle well but it wasn't driven.

When I got home I ordered a reman carb as I knew it needed to be replaced anyway and figured it was the source of the problem. After installing it I realized there was something else wrong. I noticed the new fuel filter was not filling with fuel so I replace the fuel pump. After this, the car still wouldn't start and I eventually figured out the car wasn't getting spark because the distributor had failed. After replacing all those things the car is finally running.

There are a couple problems though.

First problem is during acceleration. Under 3k rpm the car accelerates very unevenly and sometimes not at all. It seems to run best in that rpm range when I only give it the smallest gas possible, anymore than that and it doesn't work. I feel like it may be too rich... When I give it gas and quickly back off the accelerator it seems to recover. After 3k rpm the car runs like normal and if i dump fuel long enough the car will switch gears and accelerate hard.

The second problem is when I cold start the car. Let me start off by saying my choke cable broke while I was gone for the Summer. Half the time I start the car it just idles low and I let it warm up that way. Other times it revs all the way up past 4k and drops over and over until the car gets a little warm and i can touch the gas to get it to stop. I fear this may damage the engine if it keeps happening.

Sorry for the long first post, but I have been part of a few forums and I know the more details the better.

Out of curiosity why an '88? It is known that there were reliability issues with the carb engines in the first 2 years of the Gen, hence why by '90 all variations used Fuel injection.

[vachoseblows]

Retiredat44
Sorry, I did not know that it was a thumbnail. Here is the real thing.

Im am wondering if this is the sama type of EBCV found on a corolla?? Well I just looked and the EBCV in a '89 SR5 does not contain a HAC. The '89 SR5 EBCV looks almost the same as a '89 corolla EBCV except that there are 4 vac hoses going to the corolla EBCV and two hoses going to the SR5 EBCV




v

[Lightning]

Zythr, while I don't doubt the validity of your statement, this has been the most reliable car I have ever owned and the original motor still in it with 215k, and the carb probably could have kept chugging if I didn't change it.

Finnish, I kept it simple. And it was the EBCV valve LOL. Figure out how to rig the vac line that was no longer connected and the car runs like a CHAMP.

I will try and post a pic of my EBCV. As far as I know, it has never had issues so considering it was a defective part it has been quite good for me until now. I am not the original owner, but have had the car for about 100k or so.

Now, I am still having issues with the choke. If I give the accelerator a tap before i start the car it revs all the way past 4k rpm and i can't tap the accelerator to turn it off until a certain temp is reached. Also, and this is a bit more concerning to me, even when the car is somewhat warm the choke will just turn on and accelerate the car. I have to shift into neutral and tap the accelerator to turn it off. This generally happens within the first minute or less of driving. Is there a way i can just electronically disconnect the choke? I have not been using it and just starting the car without it. Upon taking off the air filter i noticed that the choke plate stays open but the car revs high so i'm guessing if it would close the choke speed would be acceptable.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

[vachoseblows]

Lightning vachoseblows here

From left to right if looking directly at it, it's the left one I broke and I haven't figured out a way to rig something to hook up that vac line again. I spent some time reading a thread on here that was incredibly informative and from that I believe that the line I currently don't have connected controls the A/F mixture for the primary jets

Vac hose diagram for '89 corolla LE
??

[retiredat44]

Originally Posted by Lightning

..................

Now, I am still having issues with the choke. If I give the accelerator a tap before i start the car it revs all the way past 4k rpm and i can't tap the accelerator to turn it off until a certain temp is reached. Also, and this is a bit more concerning to me, even when the car is somewhat warm the choke will just turn on and accelerate the car. I have to shift into neutral and tap the accelerator to turn it off. This generally happens within the first minute or less of driving. Is there a way i can just electronically disconnect the choke? I have not been using it and just starting the car without it. Upon taking off the air filter i noticed that the choke plate stays open but the car revs high so i'm guessing if it would close the choke speed would be acceptable.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

to adjust stuff, try the autozone.com website, there is a repair section that details on how to adjust the carb. Not sure about Chiltons or other...

btw, when I did buy a carb rebuild kit from napa many years ago, I did not rebuild the choke parts (I did everything but the choke), I left them alone... while the choke isn't the best, at least it isn't causing any issues after warmed up... I thought, with a car with so many miles, it's best to let sleeping dogs lie... but if the car choke is causing crazy rpm changes, I would try to get it fixed...