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6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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Old 12-25-2012, 12:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Need MOAR camber!

So I have two sets of camber bolts correctly installed in each hub in the rear, and still dont have anywhere near the camber I need to fit the new wheels I'm getting. I have my stock MR2 wheels spaced to the new wheel's offset specs to test them, and it's rubbing like mad. I havent seen a set of rear coilovers for these cars that include rear camber hats, just solid conical ones.

A friend mentioned maybe adjusting the rear lower arms to add more camber, or cutting off the ends of the arms and welding on Honda Civic adjustable camber arms that extend in/out at the bottom? I've seen some guys from Taiwain on here with massive rear camber and I dont know how!

Thanks guys! Heres a shot of the current fitment. I even tried pulling the fenders, but its no beuno.










Also for the lulz, this is after I raised the rear and a week of rubbing. Thats rubber stuck all in the fender. I had enough to ball into a super-bouncy ball XD

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Old 12-25-2012, 06:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have cusco camber plates on the rear of my AE92.

apparently these are the only decent pictures I have:




you can't run them with stock style springs though, only ground controls or other coilover type springs.

they're part number: 120 420 A
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Old 12-25-2012, 06:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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OMG eage8 thanks for the PN i thought all rear pillow ball's were the same, but the cusco ones actually can tilt the rears huh... man that should help.
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Old 12-25-2012, 07:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eage8 View Post
I have cusco camber plates on the rear of my AE92.

apparently these are the only decent pictures I have:




you can't run them with stock style springs though, only ground controls or other coilover type springs.

they're part number: 120 420 A
Thanks man! Im currently using TechnoToyTuning upper hats and HyperCoil 2.5" rear coilovers so it should work no problem. When running an upper camber plate in the rear, do you need a special spring hat that has a spinning bearing on the top or can you run a normal conical one?
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Old 12-25-2012, 08:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You can use whatever spring hats you want. I'm just using ground control hats. they just can't be stock springs because the stock upper mount is also the spring seat.
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Old 12-25-2012, 08:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rdyzz View Post
OMG eage8 thanks for the PN i thought all rear pillow ball's were the same, but the cusco ones actually can tilt the rears huh... man that should help.
be a bit careful, due to the design of the rear suspension tilting the strut might do weird things because it twists the trailer arm bushing. it's not a big deal if you have stock rubber bushings, but poly bushings could bind. I only dialed in a bit of camber in the back (around -2*), I was too worried to go crazy.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Maybe I'm missing something here... but instead of running an incredibly ridiculous amount of camber (and I'd argue that even a "modest" -2.0* negative rear camber is ridiculous) why not just have the fenders rolled if you need to fit bigger wheels/tires under your car?

I mean, I've seen plenty of autocross cars with huge tires, but I've never seen a successful car with a stupid amount of camber.

Even if your rationale is drifting, the only benefit you see from increased levels of negative camber is in the front wheels, and the optimum range seems to be around 3-4 degrees negative camber.

Putting excessive negative rear camber on a car decreases traction, decreases stability, increases the tendency for snap oversteer and increases the possibility of locking the rears before the fronts and swapping ends.

If all you are trying to do is fit larger rims/tires do a few things INSTEAD of throwing your camber out.

1.) Roll your fenders. Or, if you can't do it yourself, pay someone to do it for you.
2.) Use smaller wheels/tires.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SW20PETC View Post
Maybe I'm missing something here... but instead of running an incredibly ridiculous amount of camber (and I'd argue that even a "modest" -2.0* negative rear camber is ridiculous) why not just have the fenders rolled if you need to fit bigger wheels/tires under your car?

I mean, I've seen plenty of autocross cars with huge tires, but I've never seen a successful car with a stupid amount of camber.

Even if your rationale is drifting, the only benefit you see from increased levels of negative camber is in the front wheels, and the optimum range seems to be around 3-4 degrees negative camber.

Putting excessive negative rear camber on a car decreases traction, decreases stability, increases the tendency for snap oversteer and increases the possibility of locking the rears before the fronts and swapping ends.

If all you are trying to do is fit larger rims/tires do a few things INSTEAD of throwing your camber out.

1.) Roll your fenders. Or, if you can't do it yourself, pay someone to do it for you.
2.) Use smaller wheels/tires.
It's a FWD car, the rear end only holds the ass up, and there is no way to drift it other then tray sliding in a mcdonalds parkinglot or ebraking it. The rears are rolled heavily, pulled and flared to the max. I'm not making a race car here lol.

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Old 12-27-2012, 08:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by eage8 View Post
be a bit careful, due to the design of the rear suspension tilting the strut might do weird things because it twists the trailer arm bushing. it's not a big deal if you have stock rubber bushings, but poly bushings could bind. I only dialed in a bit of camber in the back (around -2*), I was too worried to go crazy.
Thats a bit worrying... I might just look into bigger camber bolts or finding a way to dial more camber out of them.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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the stock rubber bushings on the trailing arm are super soft and compliant, I wouldn't worry about it at all with stock bushings. I just know rdyzz has superpro poly bushings like I do.

SW20PETC: This is solely a stance post... I don't understand why people do it either, but I learned a long time ago not to argue with them and if any of your post was referring to me, I didn't want any more than -2* of camber, and I do race my car (that's pretty much all it does these days). I was just happy to get rid of the cam bolts.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by eage8 View Post
the stock rubber bushings on the trailing arm are super soft and compliant, I wouldn't worry about it at all with stock bushings. I just know rdyzz has superpro poly bushings like I do.

SW20PETC: This is solely a stance post... I don't understand why people do it either, but I learned a long time ago not to argue with them and if any of your post was referring to me, I didn't want any more than -2* of camber, and I do race my car (that's pretty much all it does these days). I was just happy to get rid of the cam bolts.
lol yep, and I appreciate the unbiased help. I have toned down the stance a bit on the car. I've decided 2013 I'm going to take the car in a more functional direction. I'm still going to be running 15x7 +20's (and probably 15x8's later) but I'm not stretching the tires, and trying to run as little camber as possible. Just enough to stop the rubbing.

Going to order new arm bars, sway bars and strut bars soon. That + the new low pro tires should really change the handling
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:11 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm running 15x7 +25 in the back and have tons of room with 195/50/15s
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:25 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by eage8 View Post
I'm running 15x7 +25 in the back and have tons of room with 195/50/15s
I'll probably end up spacing the rears from 15x7 +20 to 15x7 +0 with a 1" spacer then >.>

Do you have a pic of your car btw? I cant remember what it looks like.

Last edited by kaidotech; 12-27-2012 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:48 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I suppose I forgot about the hellaflush/stancedance folks out there.

Do whatever you want with your car I guess... I predict suspension failures and tire purchases a plenty in your future!

Also, curious, an earlier poster mentioned something about racing and running around -2.0* camber in the rear. Why do you do that?

One more thing, I know it's a FWD car, and while I don't really think it's a legitimate form of drifting, some people will argue that it is, and so I was playing it safe in that department!
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Also, curious, an earlier poster mentioned something about racing and running around -2.0* camber in the rear. Why do you do that?
because the suspension doesn't gain a lot of negative camber when the car rolls. so in order to keep the tires flat against the ground you add static camber so when the car rolls the tires are flat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaidotech
Do you have a pic of your car btw? I cant remember what it looks like.
It's not the prettiest, but it gets the job done... I still need to fix the front end damage on the other side.

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