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On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 02:38:49 +0000, Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
[color=blue]
> On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 11:17:21 -0500, "Ray O"
> <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:[color=green]
>>"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
>>news:3ltug214940q3tru6d9umh7rat3k2de2b9@4ax.com...[color=darkred]
>>> On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 15:19:15 -0500, "Ray O"
>>> <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:[/color][/color]
>[color=green]
>>The oil-less compressors were just coming out when I got my compressor
>>around 20 years ago, and since they were so new, I stuck to conventional (at
>>that time) oil-lube compressor. I use my compressor quite a bit for
>>everything from blowing off the lawnmower to filling tires to air tools.
>>
>>The only thing I don't like about the compressor is the oily mess when I
>>drain the tank.[/color]
>
> So put a hose on the tank drain and aim it into a bucket of kitty
> litter. The water evaporates and the clay absorbs the oil nicely for
> easy disposal.
>[color=green][color=darkred]
>>> If you have the room, get a belt-drive "old-style" unit with the
>>> horizontal tank, the slower compressor RPM adds to the longevity. The
>>> direct drive 1725 RPM units are a lot noisier, too.[/color]
>>
>>Does the horizontal tank have an advantage over a vertical one or are you
>>talking just about the belt drive configuration? BTW, how long do those
>>belts last? I've never done any maintenance or repairs to the compressor
>>other than draining the tank and refilling the oil.[/color]
>
> I was talking about the belt between motor and pump. For small
> units with the 14 to 20-gallon tanks, they're usually horizontal.
>
> Belt drive lets them use a more efficient 3600 RPM motor and gear it
> down with the pulleys for a compressor head that would rather see 600
> - 900 RPM for long life and better volumetric efficiency.
>
> Direct drives have to run the compressor head at either 1800 or 3600
> RPM in lock-step with the motor, which is not the preferred way to go.
> You have to go with smaller pistons and/or shorter crank throws, and
> it's harder to dissipate heat.
>[color=green][color=darkred]
>>>>The plastic cover on the trigger for my impact gun broke off so it kind of
>>>>hurts to use my impact gun. It was a free sample and still works, but now
>>>>I have an excuse for a new one!
>>>
>>> Depending on who made it, those molded rubber grip sections are
>>> available as replacement parts. Or go get a set of the special
>>> "anti-vibration" gloves with the gel pads in the palms and
>>> second-knuckle areas of the fingers.[/color]
>>
>>The brand name on the gun is Fuji, which I've never heard of here in the
>>U.S. I got it from my dad, who says that company supplies them to
>>factories. The guns supposedly can be calibrated to apply accurate torque
>>over many uses. The instructions were in Japanese and I never bothered to
>>ask someone to translate for me. I like the gun because it is relatively
>>light and it doesn't over-torque alloy wheels. I don't like the gun because
>>it is relatively gutless at removing stubborn bolts that someone with one of
>>those monster impact guns torqued.[/color]
>
> Time to do a web search for Fuji, finds a parts list, and order one.
> You can get a new monster gun for doing lug nuts and crank pulleys if
> you want, but there are times when finesse beats brute strength.
>
> Plus, Murphy's Law says the tool breaks 5 minutes after you could
> possibly get to the last store in the area that sells them before they
> close - and the car HAS to be on the road tomorrow morning...
>[color=green][color=darkred]
>>> 90 CFM? Refer to that Body Shop above, with the twin 15 HP units....[/color]
>>
>>Oops! typo! I meant 9 CFM.[/color]
>
> Yeah, Right, Suuuuuuuure ya did... ;-P
>[color=green]
>>My compressor is Craftsman brand, listed as 220V, 5 HP 30 gallon single
>>stage. I don't know who made it. It is fine for air ratchets and impact
>>guns but it runs quite a bit when I use a cutoff tool or die grinder.[/color]
>
> If you have a "5 Sears Horsepower" unit, it is probably a 2-HP or
> possibly a 3-HP unit - check the nameplate for the running amps to
> divine the true HP ratings. Sears has had to correct their
> literature, electric motors are supposed to be rated at Full Load
> Current, not the bigger and more impressive sounding Stall Current
> rating Sears wanted to use...
>
> According to the NEC, 2-HP is 12A at 230V. 3-HP is 17A at 230V,
> 5-HP is 28A at 230V for a single-phase motor. Real 5-Horse units need
> a magnetic motor starter, the pressure switch contacts can't switch
> that much juice reliably.
>
> Look at the motor nameplate and Century Electric Motors refuses to
> lie about it, they just mark the HP Rating box as "Special" - any HP
> claims made are not theirs.
>
> --<< Bruce >>--[/color]


Man, I'll be DIPPED!

Sears has a compressor on sale for $279, all the pressure I would need
(6SCFM@40PSI, 4SCFM@90PSI) WITH a 24 piece tool kit, including an Impact
wrench and a socket wrench!

DAMN!