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Old 10-15-2006, 05:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Interior Trim Panel removal and installation

On Sat, 14 Oct 2006 22:13:25 -0500, "Ray O"
<rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
[color=blue]
>
>"MO full name" <nospam@hole.org> wrote in message
>news:kcd2j292la75m07kuq3ihikdmlkk0raj54@4ax.com...[color=green]
>> On Sat, 14 Oct 2006 13:55:01 -0500, "Ray O"
>> <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
>>[color=darkred]
>>>
>>>"MO full name" <nospam@hole.org> wrote in message
>>>news:pf40j296ua5ekvp1926kb1okfeu64o0lhm@4ax.com...
>>>> On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 15:51:08 -0500, "Ray O"
>>>> <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>"MO full name" <nospam@hole.org> wrote in message
>>>>>news:alsvi2lsksbki78bdi8i19p6904m1o62uo@4ax.com...
>>>>>> On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 13:42:07 -0500, "Ray O"
>>>>>> <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>"MO full name" <nospam@hole.org> wrote in message
>>>>>>>news:j5lvi2t6flhu8nhdrfv66m2q6ljje2f1du@4ax.com...
>>>>>>>> Are the Interior Trim Panel removal and installation roughly the
>>>>>>>> same
>>>>>>>> in the 06 Sienna as the 02 Sienna?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Yes.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have a 02 Haynes manual.
>>>>>>>> I removed and replaced the panel from the rear door and was
>>>>>>>> encouraged
>>>>>>>> how easy it was with the nifty white snap out plastic buttons. How
>>>>>>>> about the ceiling <grin>.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>The headliner is a LOT more work. Generally, all 8 of the side
>>>>>>>pillars
>>>>>>>trim
>>>>>>>has to come off, which would be the A, B, C, and D left and right
>>>>>>>pillar
>>>>>>>trim, plus the windshield and rear hatch trim. Before you tacke that,
>>>>>>>you
>>>>>>>have to remove the assist grips and courtesy/dome lights and
>>>>>>>de-activate
>>>>>>>the
>>>>>>>side air bags.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I know that one is to be cautious with the air bags and disconnect
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> battery first.
>>>>>>>> Are those buttons readily replaceable from any auto supply store?
>>>>>>>> T.
>>>>>>>> would likely want $5+ for each.
>>>>>>>> MO
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I doubt if you can get the exact fit for those buttons. The cost from
>>>>>>>a
>>>>>>>dealer is probably closer to $1.50 each.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks Ray,
>>>>>> As a follow up - does disconnecting the battery cause the loss of all
>>>>>> codes and settings - from engine to radio?
>>>>>
>>>>>Yes, however, note that disconnecting the battery does not immediately
>>>>>de-energize the supplemental restraint system, commonly referred to as
>>>>>air
>>>>>bags. The SRS is designed this way because the vehicle battery is
>>>>>often
>>>>>damaged in a collission so it needs another source of power to ignite
>>>>>the
>>>>>squibs.
>>>>>
>>>>>> How difficult or simple is it to restore this?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> MO
>>>>>
>>>>>The radio is simple to restore - just write down the pre-set radio
>>>>>stations
>>>>>before you disconnect the battery. If you have programmed a theft
>>>>>deterrent
>>>>>code in the radio, you should make sure you know it BEFORE you
>>>>>disconnect
>>>>>the battery or lose power, otherwise, you will have to pay a dealer for
>>>>>the
>>>>>universal unlock code
>>>>
>>>> Have nothing except std keys - with the push button to unlock.
>>>
>>>The keyless entry may need re-programming.
>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>It is not necessary to do anything special to the powertrain electronic
>>>>>control module (ECM) if power is lost.
>>>>>
>>>>>There are other vehicle systems that may or may not be affected by
>>>>>disconnecting the battery - you should check your service manual, TSBs,
>>>>>or
>>>>>your local Toyota service department if the following are affected -
>>>>>vehicle
>>>>>theft deterrent system, keyless entry system, immobilizer system,
>>>>>automatic
>>>>>headlights/daytime running lights, and Homelink system.
>>>>
>>>> I'm using whatever factory settings it came with. So it would NOT
>>>> default to those?
>>>
>>>Some systems need to be re-initialized after power loss, which is done by
>>>the dealership as part of the pre-delivery service.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Just curious... Why do you want to drop the headliner? Dropping
>>>>>headliners
>>>>>is a huge pain, even without side curtain air bags. Professional
>>>>>technicians cringe at the thought of having to drop headliners, and
>>>>>Toyota
>>>>>developed a special technique to install roof racks without having to
>>>>>drop
>>>>>the headliners. In 35 years of messing with cars I have managed to
>>>>>avoid
>>>>>the need to drop the headliner. Unless you prefer self-inflicted brain
>>>>>damage and you would like to introduce tears, stains, sags, rattles, and
>>>>>creaks into your headliner, I recommend finding another way to
>>>>>accomplish
>>>>>whatever it is you want to accomplish.
>>>>
>>>> It is a special antenna so I can communicate with people in outer
>>>> space <G>. It is a great benefit if the ant. is located symmetrically
>>>> on the vehicle or else I need to boost power significantly.
>>>>
>>>> If it were simple then a quick look see would be good for future
>>>> reference - since there is no doubt both plumbing for the rear ac and
>>>> el circuits galore.
>>>
>>>If you want to install a roof-mounted antenna, my advice would be to drill
>>>from above with a drill-stop collar and then snake the cable through the
>>>headliner without dropping the entire headliner.[/color]
>>
>> Sounds like the best route to go - IF I go that route.
>>
>> Clearly one should avoid changing or disconnecting the battery at just
>> about all cost. If an owner puts in a new battery will the car even
>> start or drive to the nearest dealer to be reprogrammed?[/color]
>
>Yes. You can probably replace the battery with few or no ill effects if you
>re-connect the power in a reasonable time.[color=green]
>>
>> Typical cost for this - one hr?[/color]
>
>It depends on the shop's minimum charge. Actual time is probably about 15
>minutes.
>[color=green]
>>
>> Can one remove panels carefully without removing the battery first?[/color]
>
>It depends on which panels. Do not disturb any bright yellow wires - they
>are for the SRS. You can probably remove B, C, and D pillar panels without
>any problem. Since you mentioned outer space, I suspect that you are
>installing a satellite radio antenna. I am not that familiar with the
>properties of a satellite radio antenna, but I've noticed that most OEM
>installations of satellite radio antennas are centered left-right above the
>rear window, so centering the antenna in the roof may not be necessary for
>good reception. If you install a magnetic or stuck-on antenna above the
>rear hatch, you can snake the wire under the trim and down the D-pillar and
>then under the carpet to the dashboard. Note that if you drill the body,
>you break the factory paint job and give rust another place to form, even if
>you carefully touch up the edges of the hole and apply rustproofing on the
>interior surface with a special application wand. A magnetic or stuck-on
>antenna will preserve the factory paint job.[/color]

The ABCD is that a designation for each side - A being front and D
being the rear of the four pillars on each side? So the two front
windshield As - contain the goodies (to avoid) as I understand it.

Any rear AC or heating tubes above seat height (say 18" above floor)
anywhere?


It is two way radio with CB like characteristics and a coax like ant.
connection. The roof rack mag mount are distant alternatives.
 
 
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