Did you get a heavy duty wiring harness as well?? You'll need it or your stock harness will melt. The bulbs say the same wattage as stock but they put out more.
I just put Nokya 2500k yellows in my fogs with the heavy duty harness to be safe.
The wattage is the same so the amperage is the same. Just a more efficient filament that's why they put out more light. I've used PIAA's on all my previous cars and they put out a lot more light than stock so I'm not too worried. No offense to anyone that wants to put a beefier harness in.
Now I will probably add a relay to keep the fogs on with the highs. Since the lows stay on with the highs (on mine at least), jumpering a relay to the lows with an in line fuse and separate wiring to the battery should do the trick. did that with my xA. summertime project!
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JDM yellow fog bulbs, Cool Blue Headlight bulbs, Modified Intake, TRD air filter, billet shifter knob, modified light sensor, Carbon Fiber Dash, 30% Window tint, tinted reverse lights, signals, de-badged, MSW type 12 wheels, Eagle GT 225/40-18 tires, additional brake lights, TRD sway bar, Lowered
A lot of the Camry guys have the same ones, and their harness' have melted without the heavy duty harness..
The packaging on the Noyka is different from the actual printing on the bulb. My harness was 1/2 melted, and when I looked at the bulb, it said 85W. WTF?
Does Luminic = Noyka?
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2007 Magnetic Gray Camry LE V6:
Lit door sills, F/R cathode, trunk cathode, K&N SRI, IS250 chromes, LED tails/ bulb swaps, Katzkin leather
Depends on what it says. The luminics says 55W-135W. That means it's a 55 watt bulb with a 135 watt brightness efficiency. No different than the way PIAA's work. If you don't have an equivelancy and it just says 85W, then you would have an issue because you'd be drawing about 30 some percent more current.
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JDM yellow fog bulbs, Cool Blue Headlight bulbs, Modified Intake, TRD air filter, billet shifter knob, modified light sensor, Carbon Fiber Dash, 30% Window tint, tinted reverse lights, signals, de-badged, MSW type 12 wheels, Eagle GT 225/40-18 tires, additional brake lights, TRD sway bar, Lowered
Depends on what it says. The luminics says 55W-135W. That means it's a 55 watt bulb with a 135 watt brightness efficiency. No different than the way PIAA's work. If you don't have an equivelancy and it just says 85W, then you would have an issue because you'd be drawing about 30 some percent more current.
how did you arrive at the conclusion 55W is 55 watt bulb and 135W is 135 watt brightness? does it say like that in the box?
Alot of my knowledge in this area comes from my job. I design and engineer products (gaming and amusement industry) that use a lot of diiferent types of incandescent, florescent, and LED technology so I have a lot of background knowledge in lighting technology. I have to do a lot of research and testing on products before they can be released (safely) to consumers.
But aside from that, this is something I picked up on PIAA bulbs on the net that directly talks about thier bulbs that might be of some use.
"Super bright replacement halogen headlight bulbs. Xtreme White Plus technology produces a whiter light color of 4000K and provides the equivalent of 110 watts of illumination from only 55watts. These are brilliant replacements that will light up road hazards and street signs long before a normal halogen bulb. A Blue topcoat on these bulbs adds a slight blue tint to the lamp, which looks nice when the headlight is off, too. "
That bulb is lists as a 55w 110w. you can find other exampleas if you search around.
I think you can be pretty confidant in the listings from the manufacturers.
Please keep in mind another thing when replacing bulbs- Once a car has been around for a year or two, the sockets can pick up a lot of corrosion. When replacing the bulbs, that corrosion will cause a problem because the socket will almost act like a fuse trying to pull all of the amperage through the smaller contact areas on the sockets pins. This will overheat the pins on the sockets and melt the sockets and harnesses when this occurs. It will also cause bulbs to act abnormally.
the corrosion mentioned above can make a harness fry whether it's an OEM replacement bulb just as easily as an aftermarket bulb, and also explains why some people might think it's the replacement bulbs fault. However, some of the cheap aftermarket "upgrade" bulbs have crappy quality control and can also pull way more current than they should. That's why I stick to PIAA, Luminics, or Hella.
I use permatex dialectric tune up grease (item #22058) on my sockets when I replace bulbs and have had good results. Just a very small amount should be used. this helps to prevent corrosion. It looks like gooey vaseline, but works well.
I hope this is some help to others.
johncal
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JDM yellow fog bulbs, Cool Blue Headlight bulbs, Modified Intake, TRD air filter, billet shifter knob, modified light sensor, Carbon Fiber Dash, 30% Window tint, tinted reverse lights, signals, de-badged, MSW type 12 wheels, Eagle GT 225/40-18 tires, additional brake lights, TRD sway bar, Lowered
The packaging on the Noyka is different from the actual printing on the bulb. My harness was 1/2 melted, and when I looked at the bulb, it said 85W. WTF?
Does Luminic = Noyka?
Yea that's why i got the harness. Luminic aren't the same brand per say But they do require a heavier harness like the Nokya.
But i guess it's a matter of opinion, i'd rather peace of mind myself..
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