Here's my problem. I bought a 2009 corolla S in august 2008 and have been happy since now.
The engament zone of my clutch has changed significally. What i mean by that is that my clutch pedal is now catching really high. It has slowy detoriated over the last year and i remember one morning i jumped in my car it was like twice as bad as the day before. As if it had happened overnight.
I have had a manual mazda protege for 10 years and never had any problems with my clutch so i'm not riding it hard or making it slip.
The funny thing is that i brought it to the dealer and they decided to change the clucth. ( a new clutch kit) ad guess what. It's like it was before they changed it.
I read on some forum on the web that most master cylinders have a self adjusting valve that keep the pedal at the same height as your clutch wears out.
I'm wondering what the problem could be.....
Any of you have noticed a change in their pedal height and the pedal catching high ???
And is there such a self adjusting valve in the master cylinder ???
Here's my problem. I bought a 2009 corolla S in august 2008 and have been happy since now.
The engament zone of my clutch has changed significally. What i mean by that is that my clutch pedal is now catching really high. It has slowy detoriated over the last year and i remember one morning i jumped in my car it was like twice as bad as the day before. As if it had happened overnight.
I have had a manual mazda protege for 10 years and never had any problems with my clutch so i'm not riding it hard or making it slip.
The funny thing is that i brought it to the dealer and they decided to change the clucth. ( a new clutch kit) ad guess what. It's like it was before they changed it.
I read on some forum on the web that most master cylinders have a self adjusting valve that keep the pedal at the same height as your clutch wears out.
I'm wondering what the problem could be.....
Any of you have noticed a change in their pedal height and the pedal catching high ???
And is there such a self adjusting valve in the master cylinder ???
Thanks in advance
Sorry for my english
This is a self adjusting hydraulic system and over a one year period, you should notice no difference in the engagement height. You may notice a difference as to how quickly it grabs based on how much glaze is built up on the clutch. If you burned the crap out of the clutch you might be getting some slippage, but provided you have treated the clutch good, I would suspect a slight leak in the clutch cylinder.
When my car was new, the clutch was a little grabby, but over 9K miles, it smoothed out. Pedal engagement height however has never changed on mine.
I would have the dealership check it out.
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JDM yellow fog bulbs, Cool Blue Headlight bulbs, Modified Intake, TRD air filter, billet shifter knob, modified light sensor, Carbon Fiber Dash, 30% Window tint, tinted reverse lights, signals, de-badged, MSW type 12 wheels, Eagle GT 225/40-18 tires, additional brake lights, TRD sway bar, Lowered
hmm if they replaced the clutch and its still the same, i am wondering why didnt the tech's notice it after replacement ? wouldn't they have taken it for a test drive or something ? take it back. my clutch is still holding up pretty good after 30K of use and abuse lol, the only issue i had was last winter when the clutch still remained stiff after 25 minutes of driving in sub zero temps....
hmm if they replaced the clutch and its still the same, i am wondering why didnt the tech's notice it after replacement ?
Because, a lot of techs are just incompetent. Which is why cars can spend days at shops, the owner notified "the problem is fixed" and as they are driving away, the owner notices the problem. It happens more than we'd like to think, I'm sure.
I haven't had a problem with my clutch, but only recently, I've been noticing the annoyance of the steering that I've heard from a lot of people (basically, around my 16K mile mark). Didn't really notice it until a week ago.
Because, a lot of techs are just incompetent. Which is why cars can spend days at shops, the owner notified "the problem is fixed" and as they are driving away, the owner notices the problem. It happens more than we'd like to think, I'm sure.
I haven't had a problem with my clutch, but only recently, I've been noticing the annoyance of the steering that I've heard from a lot of people (basically, around my 16K mile mark). Didn't really notice it until a week ago.
Make sure your alignment is good and make sure your tires are evenly inflated to the recommended pressure. Overinflation makes the wandering worse. When I first got my car, it still had 40lbs pressure from the factory (they do this to avoid flat spotting the tires on the lot) and evidently the dealership was in too big a hurry to check it before I got it.
When I lowered my pressure to 32 all the way around the situation improved drastically. Also, when I lowered my car I had a lot of wandering before I got it re-aligned.
If it is set up properly, this will minimize the issue. Whether or not that is good enough for you is something only you can decide.
I'm fine with mine.
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JDM yellow fog bulbs, Cool Blue Headlight bulbs, Modified Intake, TRD air filter, billet shifter knob, modified light sensor, Carbon Fiber Dash, 30% Window tint, tinted reverse lights, signals, de-badged, MSW type 12 wheels, Eagle GT 225/40-18 tires, additional brake lights, TRD sway bar, Lowered
hmm if they replaced the clutch and its still the same, i am wondering why didnt the tech's notice it after replacement ? wouldn't they have taken it for a test drive or something ? take it back. my clutch is still holding up pretty good after 30K of use and abuse lol, the only issue i had was last winter when the clutch still remained stiff after 25 minutes of driving in sub zero temps....
Well the funny thing is that when i told them i had problems with my clutch after only 9950Km, the clerk ate the service didn't even ask a tech to do a test drive. He just called the shot and said, " well i'll order you a complete clutch kit and we're gonna change it and we'll machine the flywheel if we need to." (they didn't have to machine the flywheel luckily)
Even after the clutch replacement, nothing has changed about the clutch catching high.
4 Days after the clutch replacement i had to bring it back to the dealership to get it check cause had noticed some oil leakage from underneath the car.
When they removed the transmission, they damaged one seal on the tranny where the axel connects. The transmission was almost empty of oil.
4 weeks after the clutch replacement, a weird squeeking noise appeared from the clutch. The squeeking seemed to be comming from the release bearing because it was constant and as soon as i would give it some gas, the squeek would accelerate evenly. The noise also stopped as soon as i was touching the clutch pedal.
The tech said i wasn't the release bearing but the clutch fork that was vibrating and causing that noise. To fix it, he sprayed some WD-40 in the fork's rubber boot !!!!!
Of course it's only been quite for 2 weeks and the noise came back this weekend I went to the dealer today after work and they are desperate about the noise and the clutch catching high so the boss said to change everthing again. A clutch kit, fork, master and slave cylinder. They'll do that next tuesday/wenesday.
It's easy enough to adjust the clutch if you want to do it yourself. Just loosen the nut on the back of the clutch pedal and rotate the rod in or out a small amount at a time to change the engagement height. Put a pair of vice grips on the rod close to the nut to keep it from spinning or putting pressure on the pastic mount while loosening or tightening.
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JDM yellow fog bulbs, Cool Blue Headlight bulbs, Modified Intake, TRD air filter, billet shifter knob, modified light sensor, Carbon Fiber Dash, 30% Window tint, tinted reverse lights, signals, de-badged, MSW type 12 wheels, Eagle GT 225/40-18 tires, additional brake lights, TRD sway bar, Lowered
It's easy enough to adjust the clutch if you want to do it yourself. Just loosen the nut on the back of the clutch pedal and rotate the rod in or out a small amount at a time to change the engagement height. Put a pair of vice grips on the rod close to the nut to keep it from spinning or putting pressure on the pastic mount while loosening or tightening.
Thanks but actually this is to adjust the pedal itself not where it engages.
My problem is that i don't have any pedal free play anymore like in this picture. The friction zone on my car is at the end of the pedal travel.
Thanks but actually this is to adjust the pedal itself not where it engages.
My problem is that i don't have any pedal free play anymore like in this picture. The friction zone on my car is at the end of the pedal travel.
NOT true. Pedal height is adjusted by A. If you adjust C for more free play the clutch engages lower. Less free play it engages higher. I've done it before. Adjust nut C as I explained, it will work. The return spring will take up the rest of the slack.
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JDM yellow fog bulbs, Cool Blue Headlight bulbs, Modified Intake, TRD air filter, billet shifter knob, modified light sensor, Carbon Fiber Dash, 30% Window tint, tinted reverse lights, signals, de-badged, MSW type 12 wheels, Eagle GT 225/40-18 tires, additional brake lights, TRD sway bar, Lowered
NOT true. Pedal height is adjusted by A. If you adjust C for more free play the clutch engages lower. Less free play it engages higher. I've done it before. Adjust nut C as I explained, it will work. The return spring will take up the rest of the slack.
I totally understand what you mean and you're right but when doing so, the pedal stays lower once you release the clutch and if you pull on the pedal with your hand, it'll come back higher. The spring won't take it back up completly, I've tried it.
I totally understand what you mean and you're right but when doing so, the pedal stays lower once you release the clutch and if you pull on the pedal with your hand, it'll come back higher. The spring won't take it back up completly, I've tried it.
Then you have something binding in there. When they replace everything again, and it sounds like they're changing out everything this time, you should be OK. Slave cylinder could be sticking. Bearing could be catching or a bad pressure plate, but there's definitely something in there they're missing.
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JDM yellow fog bulbs, Cool Blue Headlight bulbs, Modified Intake, TRD air filter, billet shifter knob, modified light sensor, Carbon Fiber Dash, 30% Window tint, tinted reverse lights, signals, de-badged, MSW type 12 wheels, Eagle GT 225/40-18 tires, additional brake lights, TRD sway bar, Lowered
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Clutch Problems !
I went to the dealer today after work and they are desperate about the noise and the clutch catching high so the boss said to change everthing again. A clutch kit, fork, master and slave cylinder. They'll do that next tuesday/wenesday.
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