I found a couple other threads on this, but nothing for 10gen Corolla and nothing like I want to do.
There is an app for the iPhone for $12.99 called Dynolicious that uses the accelerometer in the phone to measure some performance metrics including 0-60, 1/4mi E/t & mph, HP, skidpad G's and so on. I'm sure some of you have seen it. According to some accounts I've seen it is fairly accurate. Perhaps more accurate than the G-tech. Here's a review:
It works based on some assumptions, you have to put in the cars weight and assume some % powertrain loss.
So what I want to do is first set the app up right with the cars correct weight and good estimate on the powertrain loss and then run a few baseline tests on my new completely stock 2009 XRS 5MT. I can get the cars weight by starting with the factory specs plus/minus my weight or anything else on the car. (The only mod so far- TRD cf shift knob )
Powertrain loss is going to be harder. Has anyone here run their stock XRS on a dyno and got an estimate for this? I hear that 20% is a good estimate, but the more accurate the better.
Then after I average the base runs I should have a good comparitor for when I make any mods. First mod is likely to be a K&N filter, so if I can get a few runs with that and average them we might be able to SEE IF THERE'S ACTUALLY ANY POWER GAIN! I don't want to start a riot like I've seen on here before, but just wondering what your thoughts are.
Now my only problem is finding a place to make runs....don't know of any tracks around here, there's plenty of open road in central IL, but court supervision isn't over till January......
you can do test runs by merging onto a freeway... just to see what kinda power it has... and I can tell you our cars won't be doing 1/4 miles in 15 seconds... try 18-20 stock..
the XRS is like a north american... too heavy, lacking muscle, and not very agile on its feet.
I have it on my ipod and it's pretty accurate. It measured ~130 bhp for my 1.8L LE with an estimated weight of 2940lbs (car weight + driver + gas, etc). It can also measure whp if you input drivetrain loss. It's neat for measuring power increase after a new mod.
I was afraid this might happen. I want to be as objective as possible. The first thing to do would be to test if the app is a suitable analog for a dyno. You could do this by comparing the average of a number of runs on a stock car on the app with the known specs of a stock car. If you're within some margin of error then it's a suitable alternative measuring device. No? Then with that as your baseline you could compare runs with one mod at a time. If you're within some margin of error well then it means nothing. You'd have to see some significant improvement.
Phat, did you do back to back dyno runs with and without a replacement filter on a stock car? That'd be the only way to speak from experience objectively. Don't take that the wrong way, I'm actually curious.
I'm not trying to prove or disprove any ONE thing, it's not like I have an agenda. I'm open to being wrong. I guess I thought there'd be more enthusiasm for this.
Phat, did you do back to back dyno runs with and without a replacement filter on a stock car? That'd be the only way to speak from experience objectively. Don't take that the wrong way, I'm actually curious.
From a logical perspective, the costs of dynoing in the manner you describe far outweigh the benefits of finding out that a replacement aftermarket air filter makes 1whp on a Corolla. The stock XRS is no screamer either, cars that use the same powertrain and transmission combination only put down 135-142whp from what I've seen.
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Originally Posted by TURBO Das Automagazin
A BRZ, a curvy mountain road makes one liter of happiness hormones.
Hey Nate, there's the support I was looking for. Nice ride btw.
Ya know what test I would look forward to: the front and rear sway bars on the skidpad. You do any skidpad G's on your ride?
i cud do the skidpad tests since i have both bars, just bad timing tho man, i am on winter tires and steelies lol .... i can also do a stock run and then do a run with the cai that i'll be installing next week or so. we can compare that to btk's xrs that doesnt have the bars and only has the trd filter. shud be fun. first, i need to get the software, second need to borrow my gf's iphone . third, i shud get an iphone.
Definitely the best way would be to hard mount it to something completely stationary on the car like the windshield. The guys in the video used a suction cup mount and rubber banded it in. Because we're talking about a tiny accelerometer in a phone even the slightest movement is gunna throw it off. Believe it or not, I think the best way would be to tape it to the windshield. Might need a friend to help out. Perhaps a [I]lady[I] friend to keep the weight down....
I'll post my numbers once I find the time and a place to do some runs. As for drivetrain loss, no idea. I've read a little and 15-25%. Anyone put their gen 10 on a dyno?
Hey knite, below are the tips from the dynolicious online manual for accurate results. There's useful info there and a forum as well as detailed mounting instructions, go to SETUP in the app and scroll down to get there.
Follow the mounting guidelines provided in the section on mounting your iPhone. Mounting is the most critical aspect to achieving accurate results.
Run calibration from the setup menu. The accelerometers in the iPhone are temperature sensitive, so it is best to run calibration in your car, with the engine off (for vibration), under the same temperature conditions as you perform the test run.
Make sure that your test surface is fairly level. If you start or end facing uphill or downhill, this will significantly affect your numbers.
If your aim is to measure HP, try not to jerk the car at takeoff. A smooth acceleration at takeoff and then wide open throttle will generate the most consistent results.
Make sure that the weight specified includes all passengers, cargo, fuel, accessories, etc.
Make sure the iPhone is mounted so that it cannot move relative to the car. Cradles that bounce while driving have a serious effect on accuracy.
If you believe you are getting false triggering, meaning that the timer starts before you start accelerating, please increase the trigger value in the setup menu.
Multiple Vehicles
If you have multiple vehicles set up in Dynolicious, you can easily cycle through the vehicles by tapping the button to the left of the current vehicle.
first 3 runs are on my car: Xrs - manual; weapon-r SRI, magnaflow exhaust and we forgot to calibrate the iphone for all the runs in my car. not sure if that made a difference but roughly u can get an idea.
next 3 runs are on btk's car: Xrs - auto; injen CAI, everything else stock and this time the iphone was calibrated properly.
for some reason adding a second ride in the program did not read hp in any run. so we ended up changing the values on one ride: weight and drivetrain loss. these two values make all the difference. this is what we used for the setup.
Xrs- manual: 3182 lbs (curb weight + two people + misc items); 15% Dt loss
Xrs - auto : 3270 lbs (curb weight + two people + misc items); 20% Dt loss
if i change either values it changes all the saved results on the program, so if anyone wants to make any suggestions for different numbers i'll be happy to plug them and see what the difference is. oh and i had on my steelies with winter tires, btk was running stock wheels with winter tires.
and i know my shifting isint the best or the fastest so spare me the bashing
as u will notice, one run in each car was off from the two other runs. why?
why is there a difference of 10 hp in manual vs auto ? cud it be because the iphone was not calibrated in the manual, but was in the auto ? wud like to hear ur opinions.
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