Coming up to the 5k mark. Royal Purple anyone?

[kevinnz]

Let me begin by saying that I did do a search, but PhatRoyale's name kept throwing off my results. I will be using synthetic oil, but I'm not sure which is best for our cars. 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, or 5w30? (I'm not even sure what the numbers mean)



I read some reviews about Royal Purple and would like to have some of your views on the brand. I've read things like increased gas mileage and mild increase in HP and everything is just positive. There's a deal on Amazon for 12 quarts for 100$, which is a pretty good price (about the same as 12 quarts of Mobil 1) Is RP any better than Mobil 1?

Thanks ahead of time.

[kevinnz]

Just found this magazine article comparing different oils. The results are surprising.. Mobil 1 performed worst than a lot of oils half its prices.

The test was to compare 18 different brands of oils and show long term wear of engine bearings in a short period of time. I will sum up the results..

Castrol Formula R
Cost: $67.99
Load Rating: 2LB
Scar Length on engine bearing: 7mm
Pressure Resistance: 2011.72 PSI

Pennzoil GT Performance
Cost: $37.99
Load Rating: 6LB
Scar Length: 5mm
Pressure Resistance: 9200.24 PSI

Gulf Western Ultra 1
Cost: $25.99
Load Rating: 2LB
Scar Length: 7mm
Pressure Resistance: 2011.74 PSI

Mobil 1
Cost: $89.99
Load Rating: 2LB
Scar Length: 8mm
Pressure Resistance: 1540.22 PSI

Royal Purple
Cost: $79.99
Load Rating: 8LB
Scar Length: 1.5mm
Pressure Resistance: 131,432.00 PSI

Royal Purple Racing 51
Cost: $30 per liter
Load Rating: 8lb
Scar Length: 1mm
Pressure Resistance: 295,722.00 PSI

I think I will be going with Royal Purple on my next oil change.. lol

ORIGINAL ARTICLE: http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

[PhatRoyale]

Use the grade that's recommended in the owners manual.

Oil is oil.

Thicker grades will reduce gas mileage and thinner grades will increase gas mileage (at the expense of shear resistance and protection).

Some like Mobil 1, others like Royal Purple. Use both and decide for yourself.

[SuperchargedMR2]

I've always used Mobil 1 with great results. I had my old Tercel 3AC engine looked at with 325k miles on it after I put in a 4AGE into it. The shop that looked at it said it was within new specks & showed virtually no wear. I also followed a report years ago about Mobil 1 in NYC taxis & they changed it every 25k miles with great results. I figured that these results were real world results & plenty good for me.

You are paying a lot more for Mobil 1 than I am. I can get 10 quarts of 5W-20 at Walmart for $52! I think that most any synthetic oil would be just fine as long as you continue to change it at a regular interval. I change mine every 5k miles.

[kevinnz]

wow that's cheap. i was looking at around the same price for 6 quarts on amazon.

Do you recommend 0w20 or 5w20 and why superchargedmr2?

So do you think that Royal Purple isn't worth the money?

[SuperchargedMR2]

Originally Posted by kevinnz

wow that's cheap. i was looking at around the same price for 6 quarts on amazon.

Do you recommend 0w20 or 5w20 and why superchargedmr2?

So do you think that Royal Purple isn't worth the money?

I just feel like I reached the point of diminishing returns beyond Mobil 1. I've had such great results over the last 25 years using it that it doesn't make sense to me to pay almost twice the amount for RP. I'm sure that it's good stuff but I'm fine with Mobil 1. In my climate around Portland the 5W-20 is more than fine for cold engine start. I can also get that in the 5 quart container which is cheaper than the single quart price. I use Mobil 1 in all 5 of my Toyota's but in the older cars I run 5W-30, although I'm sure I could use the 5W-20 with no issue. If I lived in Canada & saw below zero temps I would use 0W-20 & just buy a couple of quarts here & there when I went to Walmart just to make it seem like it was cheaper!

[PhatRoyale]

Originally Posted by kevinnz

So do you think that Royal Purple isn't worth the money?

I personally think it's a bit overrated as a synthetic oil. Search BITOG and see what they say.

[mbbankk]

I use Toyota's 0W-20 - can't remember the link but I read on an oil and lubricant related website that it is some of the best stuff available... local dealership sells it for $6.50 a quart and that beats even Wal Mart prices for Mobil 1.

[SuperchargedMR2]

Originally Posted by mbbankk

I use Toyota's 0W-20 - can't remember the link but I read on an oil and lubricant related website that it is some of the best stuff available... local dealership sells it for $6.50 a quart and that beats even Wal Mart prices for Mobil 1.

I just bought some Mobil 1 at Walmart today & it was $5.20 per quart or $26 for the 5 quart container.

[09yota]

Originally Posted by kevinnz

Let me begin by saying that I did do a search, but PhatRoyale's name kept throwing off my results. I will be using synthetic oil, but I'm not sure which is best for our cars. 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, or 5w30? (I'm not even sure what the numbers mean)



I read some reviews about Royal Purple and would like to have some of your views on the brand. I've read things like increased gas mileage and mild increase in HP and everything is just positive. There's a deal on Amazon for 12 quarts for 100$, which is a pretty good price (about the same as 12 quarts of Mobil 1) Is RP any better than Mobil 1?

Thanks ahead of time.

Just to let you know what the numbers stand for. The two-letter code indicating the type of detergent package that the manufacturer uses in the oil; this looks like SE, SF, CD or such. The S codes are for gasoline engine applications; the C codes are for diesel engine applications. The second letter is assigned in sequence as new levels of protection are developed; thus SF is considered better than SE, SE is considered better than SD, and so forth.

The more noticeable designation is the oil weight. This is either a single number (e.g., 30 weight) or a pair of numbers separated by the letter W (e.g., 10W30.) The latter type is much more commonly used these days, and are the only type that most automobile manufacturers specify in operators manuals. The first number in the designation (10W) is the apparent viscosity of the oil when it is cold; the W stands for `winter'. The second number (30) is the viscosity of the oil when hot. There is a trick here; the oil doesn't actually get thicker (turn from 10 weight to 30 weight) as it gets hotter. What is actually happening is that when the oil is cold, it has the viscosity of a cold 10 weight oil. as it gets hotter, it doesn't get thin as fast as a 10W oil would; by the time it is up to temperature, it has the viscosity of a hot 30 weight oil.

Note that these numbers actually specify ranges of viscosities; not all 10W oils have exactly the same viscosity when cold, and not all 30 weight oils have the same viscosity when hot. Also the behavior of multi-grade oils is caused by additives, and it has been reported that some 10W40 oils do not retain their multi-grade characteristics well over time. But 10W30, 15W40, and 20W50 oils work fine.

[king89]

I run RP 5w20 in my 09 1.8s rally car. I put it in my 89 sr5 with 4af if the oil stay in the block

[flamedrgn]

i also use mobil 1 5w-20 in my corolla and have been putting it in my father's highlander for 7 years now. cars engine runs smooth and like new.

[PhatRoyale]

Originally Posted by 09yota

Note that these numbers actually specify ranges of viscosities; not all 10W oils have exactly the same viscosity when cold, and not all 30 weight oils have the same viscosity when hot.

Correct.

To expand on what you said, attention must be paid to the cST ratings.

[OkSlim]

I have a preference in brand of oil but it doesn't really matter.
Use whatever weight the OEM says to use and do the changes at the recommended intervals and you won't ever have oil related problems.

I am not talking about you but I know people that would throw a fit if someone put a different brand than what they think is best but they don't rotate tires, Never check their windshield wipers for rotting, don't change fuel filters until they are stranded, etc,etc,.