N/A Tuning Thread 2.4L 2AZFE

[kniterider09]

So what about some n/a tuning on our xrs. i've done some digging around and here you go, its possible to atleast for sure gain 35 whp with this setup, possibly more with some more work.

http://www.dezod.com/pd-brian-crower...haft-2azfe.cfm

scroll down in that link and you will come across a dyno chart. above it states all the mods done to that xB2 to reach that power, simply stating those mods as follows:

injen cai
weapon-r headers 4-2-1
BC Stage 2 CAMS
megan 2.25 midpipe
greedy axleback
crank pulley
APR-X1 (allan phillips racing x-one)

this last one is the key to extract all that power. its a stand-alone ems which works very well with n/a or turbo tuning. it is quite a capable unit and if you are boosted, this should definitly be the one to tune on. but it also works extremely well for n/a setup.

so that xb2 is now pushing 170 whp. thats about what, 190-195 crank?

I am positive you can push more if you add high compression pistons (also avilable on the same website) and port/polish and tune everything on the x-1.

whats the price ? well, lets do the math for parts alone. the apr x-1 is the most expensive part out of all of those. its 2K usd. yes 2K!!
rest of the parts max with shipping estimate:
intake - 250 ?
header - 600 ?
cams - 600 ?
axleback (magnaflow ? borla ? etc, should work just as well)
midpipe - ???
pistons - 600 ?
pulley - 110 ?

total: approx $4000.

thats just parts, maybe add another 1000 for labour to pull the motor out and install the cams/pistion/port-polish/etc.

so about $5000 should get you approx 50 whp depending on the tune.

now i know most of you must be like " ah what a waste for 50whp only, i could just boost it" ya well, if you buy everything new just the turbo kit costs about 5K with a good engine management like the X1. plus installation plus tuning. with boost you will also have to change your clutch, upgrade brakes, either go on coilovers or springs with all the UR/TRD bars etc to compensate for the added weight of the turbo components.

let me also remind you that an additional 50whp on our xrs puts us at around 190 whp, which is more than stock si, stock spec v, stock gti.

this setup is also good for someone is they decide to later add boost, as they will already have the engine prepped for it plus will also have the x1.

bottom line, nothing is cheap, nothing is free, its a hobby, some people like it, others dont. all this information that i've listed has been gathered via talking to members on scionlife.com and none of this is my own.

I will also add that for people living in the states its much cheaper and easier to go the turbo route due to the abundance of parts/shops available. canada is a different story.

happy holidays everyone.

[pengin978]

so the APR x-1 huh.
Unichip just came out for the xb gen 2 ( which uses our ecu also ) but thats a piggy back

But the x-1 is a standalone, good find!

I was planning on getting cams after I get I/H/E/P and buy a piggyback. but a Standalone is so much better

[Dimaoala]

Hmm great info.

I come to a newbie when it goes down to these kinds of things.

Whats the difference between the piggyback and a standalone?

I'm guessing the APR-X1 is a chip?

[kniterider09]

piggyback ecu controls your air/fuel ratio by changing the values on your stock ecu tricking it into reading different values. standalone ecu is a complete ecu by itself and you can pretty much do anything on it, advance/retart timing, extend rev limiter , control fuel/ignition timing, build new ignition maps, build new ignition cam angle etc etc all from a scratch.

apr-x1 is not a chip, its a complete unit. just like the aem fic (fuel ignition controller) (aem fic and unichip are piggyback units).

[Dimaoala]

Ah wowzers. Ok haha.

Anything performance wise was just going I/H/E, not sure if I'd do anything more.

But I'd love to do all this so I can race my brother's GT-S

We've done a couple of runs and I can keep up with him for sure

[ploud]

polishing your intake and exhaust on your valve ports are actually simple to perform as long as you clean up well. if you pay attention on how you disassemble and place each part with proper labels in it own container. replace each component back how you took it off can gain you up to 20 hp. removing your cylinder head is actually not that hard to do. you can use a dremel polishing bit to perform it. just take your time and don't try to remove materials to fast.

[kniterider09]

i'd like to take back what i've said about the x-1. its a good unit but i've found people with auto xB's have had issues with it not working properly. so a little caution there. anyway i think the majority of us would think twice before dropping 2K into one unit alone. i think people have dyno'd with unichip as well and have seen 10 whp gains depending on the bolt on's after adding the unichip. so that would be a more cost effective method. unichip + intake + headers + pulley.