Hey Gang, hope someone finds this useful. Since I didn't find anything when I was searching, I'm posting a brief DIY on installing a block heater. Part number on mine was PU140-00902. As I suspected it was located in a very similar location to my 08 Camry and I had just done that one last January. I guess if you have really small hands, you might get away without having to remove the air cleaner box, but I found it infinitely easier and took less than 10 minutes to remove the box and made the rest of the job a snap. All the usual forum type disclaimers apply: I'm just another DIY Schmuck who doesn't like paying $105 an hour for labor. This is NOT meant to be the gospel on how you should do this, but rather show you how I did it. If you aren't comfortable under the hood, don't attempt this. If you screw it up and damage you car, I'm not responsible simply because I'm showing you how I did this job on my car.
First, here's a wide angle view of the engine so you can see the area we're talking about. The checkbox marks the air cleaner and the arrow points to the approximate area where the hole is already bored to insert the block heater.
Here's a little closer view. The heater hole is located under the hose that the arrow is pointing at.
Next, I removed the air cleaner box, first by unsnapping the 2 clips and loosening the screw which clamps the accordion type hose on to it. After you loosen the screw, you just wiggle the hose back away from the box. Note the alignment notch in the top as you'll need to line that back up flush when re-assembling. Once the clips are snapped back off their locking positions, and the hose pulled free, you should be able to swing the top of the air cleaner box up and away to the right to get it out of the way.
Next, I removed the lower half of the air cleaner box by tkaing out the (3) 10mm screws in the bottom, and the additional 10mm screw that braces the main wiring harness to the back of the lower box (note you can't see it in the picture, but a 1/4" ratchet with 10mm socket got it out for me easily). Be sure to drop that 10mm screw like I did and hope it falls all the way to the ground! Once the (4) total 10mm screw are removed, the lower box will lift right out and can be set out of the way for now.
Here's what the area should look like now with the air cleaner box totally removed. The red arrow points to the area you can now look to find the hole for the block heater.
Ok, so here's what the little sucker looks like (the hole that is). Note that from the right side of the hole to the back of the block it's relatively thin. That thin spot is where the clip near the top of the block heater unit slides over and clicks it into place and holds it. (see also next photo of heater unit).
Now you're in the home stretch! Take the heater unit, smear a light to moderate coating of the provided conductive grease (mine was clear) and slide it into the hole with the clip to the rear as already mentioned. You should hear and/or feel it click if it's seated in all the way and it should be firmly in place (if it easily slides back out with no resistance, it's not properly locked in).
Now note the position of the electrical connector and take out the electrical cord and attach the connector on the cord to the heater. The cord should be heading back towards the firewall. Routing is strictly your call, but I ran mine along behind the main wiring harness, and around the right side of the battery box, using the provided tie wraps to eliminate any movement. The first couple of feet or so from the heater has heat shielding on it. Just make sure it can't come in contact with any moving parts or anything that will get real hot when running!
Once the heater is in, wired and you've tied it all up securely, just reverse the steps to take it apart and put it all back the way it was. Remember to get the notch lined up and all the way in before tightening the accordion hose coming out of the box. Also, when threading in the (3) 10mm screws in the bottom of the box, note that they are going into a rubber type washer and you may want all 3 in but loose to wiggle it around slightly to make sure the washers are all sealed before final tightening.
Having recently done this on my Camry, it took me about 35 minutes to complete this one. As mentioned previously, I put my Camry on a digital timer and at temps above 0F, I found 3 hours to be plenty of time to warm the block nicely. If it were going to be-10 to -20F or lower, you might want 4 hours or so. That's it! Time for a bier and bratwurst!