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2nd Generation (2009+) Specific discussion of the second generation Matrix

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Old 12-26-2008, 06:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How to Sound Proof Doors

The only problem I have had with my 2009 Matrix S is the road noise and the "tinny" noise when shutting the doors. I put dampening material on both front doors today. Not knowing what I was doing the first door took about 1 1/2 hours and the second door about 1 hour. SIGNIFICANT improvement with interior road noise on the interstate. I plan on doing both rear door and the hatchback tomorrow. The two most known brands are DYNAMAT and DAMPLIFIER. I chose B-QUIET Extreme. It is about 1/2 the price and seems to work fine.

http://www.b-quiet.com/extreme.html


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Starting Point

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Remove panel behind door handle using small screwdriver

Use same screwdriver and pop out the power window controls.
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Remove three screws. The third is not visible and and is down in the hole behind the small tray. The two smaller visible screws do not need to be removed.

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Using panel removing tool, $10 at local auto parts store, to pop loose panel.

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Work your away around the entire panel and loosen the panel.

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Remove panel.

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Remove door handle and door lock cables.

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Slowly remove moisture barrier, be careful because this is going to be used as a template later.

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Carefully cut pieces of material and place them on the interior skin. This does not have to be an exact science. I used the left over pieces from the other door as not to waist any of the material.

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Use the moisture barrier and a template when cutting the B-Quiet material.

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This is what it looks like after cutting, rolling, and applying. You also have to copy the slit opening from the moisture barrier to allow the rods and wires through the material. Put the door cover back on and you are done!!
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Old 12-27-2008, 08:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Today I completed the rear doors and the rear hatch. Tip for removing the interior rear hatch panel is to take the top panel above the glass, then the two side panels on each side of the glass prior to removing the bottom main panel. There are no screws. Just use the panel removal tool starting at the bottom.

The car is significantly quieter. All the doors have a very "solid" feel upon closing. The stereo system also seems to have a deeper quality sound then before. I will let everyone know how the floorboard and roof go down the road!
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That looks great. I am thinking about doing the same thing to make the doors quieter and to make the stereo sound better. How much of the B-Quiet did you use on the 4 doors.

Dave
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Wow! Thanks for the guide. I will try this out very soon.
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I purchased two 50 square foot rolls. It is one foot wide and 50 feet long. I wanted to buy enough for the whole car including the roof and floorboard. I was very generous on the inner skin application and I still have about 10 to 12 feet left on the first roll. I think I will have enough left over to start on my FJ Cruiser. After riding in the Matrix, my wife want that car done as well.
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Old 01-09-2009, 09:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
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What about the warranty?
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Old 01-09-2009, 10:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I never inquired about that. Unless something inside the doors went bad they would never know.
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Old 01-09-2009, 10:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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where did you purchase the rolls of deadening material?
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Old 01-10-2009, 06:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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The link to their website is on top of the first picture. You can also get it through Ebay. That was the first place I saw them, but they gave me the same price when I called them direct. Good luck.
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Very good How to.... I think I may have to attempt this.

Thanks for posting the links and the pictures.

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Old 02-22-2009, 02:53 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Road noise seems to have decreased with
the two front doors done. Will get a good drive
in tomorrow now that the back doors are done.

I ended up pushing mounting stud off that first pin you show being pryed.
Then removed the pin from the door, and placed back on that stud.
Other than that, everything went as quickly and smoothly as you show

Thanks so much.



.
.
.
How does one get into the sides of the cargo area?
.
.
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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So the sound deadening material is good enough and doubles up as the moisture barrier also? or do you place the blue moisture barrier back over the material?
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Old 02-22-2009, 12:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It acts as a moisture barrier as well. I threw the plastic out.
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Old 02-25-2009, 02:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I also tossed out the blue plastic.
However, because the material only comes in
12" x roll dimensions, the seam could allow moisture
to penetrate. I sized my pieces to overlap about one inch.
I did this to account for that seam, and make a good seal.
On all but the first install, I set the top piece on the door
first, so that any moisture condensation would could drain
down the inside of the door, and not find its way in.

I also got creative when covering the slits for wires and
the door cables.
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Old 03-13-2009, 11:53 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Great "How-To" guys, thanks.

Question: How do you adhere it to the door? what did you use?
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