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A/c and other fun adventures

2K views 11 replies 2 participants last post by  Sidwinder 
#1 ·
HI All!

I've visited the forum many times but I don't think I've ever posted. I recently bought an old 96' avalon for cheap but it needs quite a bit of work. This has been a really big challenge for me as I am now unable to work due to physical disability and I'm not receiving any income at this time so I'm relying on the help of friends and family to try and fix the issues with the car and keep it on the road well I'm not completely burning up every single dollar that I have in savings which has proved to be very challenging considering that no one seems to take care of their Vehicles anymore and then when you buy it you inherit all their problems. That said, I would greatly appreciate any help and your patience with me here on the Forum as I have to dictate because I can't type any more due to the pain in my hands as well as the fact that I'm almost pretty much bedridden.

I have already done almost everything in the steering and suspension systems as well as replace the tires but the temperature is fluctuating with it going higher at idle, slightly above the half-point such as sitting at a light verses being about one-third from the bottom while going down the highway. It's my guess that the previous owner removed the thermostat since they don't know what the hell they're doing which in Las Vegas is a really crappy idea. It's not really overheating as much as it's just getting a little bit higher on the gauge then I'd like to see it. Like I mentioned I think it's just due to not having a thermostat and so at idle it is not keeping the coolant in the radiator long enough to cool down before a recirculating into the engine.

Of course in addition to all this, the AC compressor is acting like it's getting ready to lock up every time that I start it up for the first time, it almost kills the engine sometimes has killed the engine so I'm guessing that it's just right on the verge of being completely locked up even though I was still cooling but it was making some noise despite trying to recharge it with a professional Robinair system. I found that rock auto sells a kit with compressor for about a hundred and sixty-eight but I'm not sure if I have the right compressor because it said something about 10PA17C style or something. Not sure how to discern between the styles. Anyone know?

The way that everything in the manuals was reading it sounded like the whole entire dashboard had to be taken out in order to get to the expansion valve YUCK! But I read on one of the answers sites that there should be enough access to get to it from the pass footwell: http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/5499x-toyota-avalon-expansion-valve-96.html

The other thing is that there are a lot of places saying that you can't flush these newer condensers however from what I'm reading or what I've seen so far it's a serpentine style in this car so it seems like it should be able to be flushed vs having a parallel flow style. Has anyone had any luck flushing one of these condensers in a 96 Avalon?

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3927417&cc=1272642&jnid=341&jpid=0

Again I greatly appreciate any help or guidance
 
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#2 ·
That Denso compressor p/n is what my Camry took. Pretty sure the Avy is the same.

Not sure about flushing out the condenser. For what it costs (about $70 for a Denso on Rockauto) I'd replace it if it's suspect.

The expansion valves in these don't fail often. Why do you think it needs replacing?

Be sure to replace the filter/dryer. Recommended anytime the system is opened up.

Also, add lubricant based on what you replace per below. Use PAG46 oil, preferably double end capped with fluorescent dye. New/rebuilt compressors usually ship with oil.

Receiver/dryer
Add 10 cc (0.34 fl.oz.) oil

Condensor
Add 40 cc (1.4 fl.oz.)

Evaporator
Add 40 cc (1.4 fl.oz.)

Compressor
140 cc (4.9 fl.oz.)
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the info! I am thinking that with the compressor being noisy sonce I bought it that if I do not replace the expansion valve (since they cannot be flushed out) as well as flushing the condenser, lines and evap in addition to replacing the drier and compressor , I will just end up locking up a new compressor since there is probably already contaminant in the system from this one. My guess if the current compressor is bad enough to stall the engine while it is engaging because it's just a hair away from completely locking up, it probably already has sent metal shaving's into the rest of the system, right?
 
#4 · (Edited)
UPDATE: at this point, I'm just going to leave the AC system alone and suffer through the summer in Las Vegas since my friend really doesn't have the time to help me and I can't do it myself. When I do get the parts and my friend has the time, we're going to completely rebuild the AC since I'm not going to take a chance on locking it back up with a new compressor.

As for the coolant temperature issues, the thermostat ended up being the original thermostat from 10 of 95 date stamp. I had it changed out with an AutoZone thermostat and now it stays pretty much right in the middle so hopefully I'll be good there.

I had another friend come over and help me do the oil pan and it took him nine hours for a job that probably would have taken 2 hours for me back when I was physically capable. Gets really frustrating. But so far, it seems to be holding up I let it sit for a full 24 hours before putting oil in it to let the RTV cure. The idiot who did that job before me left a ton of excess RTV on the inside which ended up turning into little rocks that plugged up the pickup. So oil or not but job needed to be done to clean out that pick up for the oil pump.

The next thing is is that the valve covers are leaking like a sieve but that's a huge job and it all requires bending over which of course I can't do it all. Not to mention that I would need quite a bit of Parts money-wise with the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, upper intake plenum gasket, etc... that has a bit of a slight misfire at idle but it's not enough to set a check engine light right now I'm guessing the spark plugs are probably worn.

The car has a bunch of issues like the antenna is broken it looks like it was hit from the front and has a different fender and door that doesn't quite line up. Power steering system is leaking like crazy . But with all the work that I've done to the car so far it drive straight down the road and the motor runs smoothly, transmission shifts out smooth. After getting the transmsission oil and filter done and didn't have any major particles and oil is staying dark red. So hopefully this car will last me for quite a while since all I do is use it to go to the grocery store in the doctor most the time. I am planning to try and take it out of town at the beginning of next month so wish me luck.
 
#5 · (Edited)
One thing I don't understand is why the cruise control now is turning off as soon as I turn it on and then I try to set the speed the cruise light starts to Blink and won't set the cruise speed. Once in awhile it might set and work if I keep turning the cruise off and back on and trying to set it might set. Anyone know how to fix this?
 
#6 ·
My Avalon does this occasionally. I haven't dug into it yet, but I suspect it has something to do with the brake pedal switch. When it does it (cruise light blinking), if I tap the brake pedal and try setting cruise again, it usually works. I'm going to try hosing down the switch with WD40. Problem is, it does it so infrequently, it'll be hard to know if I've fixed it.
 
#7 ·
Wow that totally makes sense! Thank you so much for the reply. I get the feeling this forum isn't as active as it used to be from the lack of responses I have received. I really appreciate the replies. It's not easy to keep an old car running with no money or physical ability...
 
#8 ·
Yeah, this Avalon forum isn't very active. This gen Avalon shares a LOT with the Gen3/Gen4 Camry, so you might do some searching there for answers sometimes.
 
#9 ·
I have already done almost everything in the steering and suspension systems as well as replace the tires but the temperature is fluctuating with it going higher at idle, slightly above the half-point such as sitting at a light verses being about one-third from the bottom while going down the highway. It's my guess that the previous owner removed the thermostat since they don't know what the hell they're doing which in Las Vegas is a really crappy idea. It's not really overheating as much as it's just getting a little bit higher on the gauge then I'd like to see it. Like I mentioned I think it's just due to not having a thermostat and so at idle it is not keeping the coolant in the radiator long enough to cool down before a recirculating into the engine.
Just re-read your first post more closely and caught this. Normal operating temp is with the needle perfectly horizontal. From what you wrote, I suspect the thermostat too. Either someone removed it, or it's failing. Typical failure mode for these thermostats is to start opening too soon, at too low a temperature. If you choose to replace it, definitely go with an OEM thermostat or Kuzeh brand (they supply to Toyota). I know you've said money is tight, but this is one case where the OEM part is worth the extra money, and I don't often say that. Should be about $20 Vs $10 or less. The aftermarket thermostats can be complete crap.

It's not too difficult a job. Follow the upper radiator hose back to the motor where it attaches to the aluminum t'stat housing. Be sure to install the new t'stat with the "jiggle valve" at the 12 o'clock position.
 
#10 ·
Thanks again for the replies. I endedicated up getting the thermostat done already. I mentioned that in my update post on 8/22. It was kinda long. Again, my posts tend to be long-winded since I'm dictating from speech to text with my phone do to my arthritic hands.

It's good advice to go with the OEM part for the thermostat but I was kind of in a bind and needed the part right away and the dealer was closed anyway, plus the one near me charges about a hundred times what anything should cost for a part on top of being total jerks. I ended up putting the OEM temperature which is 180 degrees let the AutoZone Duralast thermostat and seals I think at all it was less than 20 bucks for the parts. And now the temperature is staying with the meal perfectly horizontal once warmed up and never goes up or down. The lower radiator hose was mush anyway and had to be replaced as well. Not to mention that it was the original thermostat with that 10 of 95 date stamp on it... Crazy. Not to mention the antifreeze looked like garbage. This car was badly neglected from everything that I can see. Sometimes a cheap car is anything but.

If it ends up giving more trouble, then I'll just have to get the Toyota part and have it redone... you're advice is totally right though.

As of last night the damn check engine light came on on top of everything else and has a cylinder to misfire the valve covers are leaking like crazy so it just indicates that instead of being able to wait on it it's something I have to do right away of course since I have no more money. And of course it's a nightmare job because the upper intake plenum has to be completely taken off in order to change the rear valve cover gasket grommets and spark plugs so I'm going to have to beg my friend to try and help me since that job is completely bending over which of course I can't do it all...
 
#11 ·
Ah, sorry, I missed the t'stat update in your follow-up post. Hopefully you'll have good luck with the Autozone t'stat. But if it starts running too cold again sometime soon, don't look elsewhere, it's probably their t'stat going bad.

Just an FYI - If you're only changing the spark plugs, you don't have to remove the intake plenum to get the rear bank done. It's tight, but it can be done with the proper assortment of 3/8" extensions and a U-joint. From the plug up, you need:

1- A good plug socket; one that grips the plug securely.
2- 6" extension
3- U-joint
4- 6" extension
5- Ratchet

Put the first two together and drop them into the plug well. Then attach the latter 3 and go to town. The middle one and the driver's side are the worst. Gotta do it by feel, as you can't see what you're doing.
 
#12 ·
Thank you very much for that info. Unfortunately, it will not be helpful in this particular case because the valve covers are leaking like a sieve both on the outside all over the headers and inside with the spark plug tube grommets... So it's all going to have to come apart unfortunately.

But it is good to know that we can do it at least a tune-up without having to go tearing the whole intake take off, which is what I originally thought. Again, this car has been sadly neglected.

I used to really enjoy working on cars and was pretty good at it, but now with titanium rods, cage, bone graft, artificial disc and other levels and facet joints going bad again, it's just not possible for me to do this kind of work anymore because it all requires bending over unless the engine's completely out of the car and even then I can't stand for very long periods of time or sit.

I'm thinking of trying to talk to one of the local high schools if they still have an auto shop program and see if I can enlist the help of a trainee that is interested in learning more about Automotive and willing to assist disabled people with repairs.
 
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