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1st Generation (1995-1999) Specific discussion of the first generation Toyota Avalon

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Old 08-26-2006, 08:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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97 avalon emission prob.

I have a 97 avalon xl and the check engine light came on a few times. i had it checked with a scan tool and came up with the oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1, i changed out all three of my oxygen sensors and after that the check engine light went away or so i thought. After turning on my car this morning there it was again staring at me, the check engine light, this time when i took it to get checked they gave me a code of p1410, which states that my manufacturer controled auxilary emissions system, but according to the dealer my car doesn't have an auxilary system can anybody help me with this problem thanks.
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Old 08-26-2006, 09:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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P1410 seems to be EGR position sensor circuit malfunction. Open or short in EGR valve position sensor circuit, EGR valve position sensor or ECU.
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Old 08-27-2006, 02:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Have you knocked anything off while working on the O2 sensor?
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Old 08-27-2006, 06:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If the car has an odd hesitation and stumbling on acceleration, it probably needs a new EGR. Did you check for all codes first time around or did you erase them after it scanned the first one? Maybe it was there, or it may be a new code that just popped up. Either way, it is something else to fix. Search this forum and the Camry forum for this trouble code. I replaced my EGR this spring.
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Old 11-24-2006, 04:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Gen1

Quote:
Originally Posted by toyomoho
P1410 seems to be EGR position sensor circuit malfunction. Open or short in EGR valve position sensor circuit, EGR valve position sensor or ECU.
I just changed my egr pos sensor last week. I have a post on this which I will paste here.

I recently changed my EGR Pos sens. I should know in a few days after 3 drive cycles or so if I fixed it. I also got the infamous p1410 & 1411. I tested the sensor. Be very careful. Just because it reads normal resistance at 1st doesnt mean its good. When I had the ohm meter on it, the resistance had a very small but noticable open or dead spot when I pushed the plunger in and out. If you do it too quickly, you may miss it and inadvertantly put a bad sensor back in. I ordered mine from toyautoparts.com for less than 55 bucks with shipping. easy to change removing 3 7mm nuts. Watch out, there is a o-ring gasket seal which you can reuse as long as it didnt rip open. I will keep you informed if it works out or not.

Thanks,
Steve

Quote:
Originally Posted by csaxon
Great!, I wish more people would learn to use a DVOM to analyze their problems.


Yes I did indeed use a DVOM. But, it would be better in this case believe it or not to use an analog VOM. This way, you can actually see the meter physically go up and down. It should go up & down smoothly as you slowly push the plunger in and out slowly. BTW, I was wrong. I thought I bought the sensor from toyautoparts.com . I bought another part I needed from them there. I got the sensor from a user on ebay. Sorry for the confusion. Also I haven't had a chance yet to give the car a few more drive cycles to see if I fixed the problem yet. I'm still recovering from major kidney surgery.

Thanks,
Steve

So far so good. I put the comp on it. All tests completed. No codes. Keep fingers crossed. I think I fixed it.

Steve

I hope this helps you.
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Remember codes don't tell you what the problem is,they just tell you what's being affected by the problem.

Sounds like an EGR problem.
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