The fluid is picked up by the lower line (suction) and returned by the higher (low pressure). Have you tired bleeding the system by turning the steering wheel full left and right to the stop?
What is the condition of the fluid, dark, burned smell? Try replacing it using a turkey baster to drain and refill the resevoir. Do this enough time over say one month and the fluid will be clean.
Check Carmy posts as the issue of pump noise has come up, they are almost the same car.
The fluid is picked up by the lower line (suction) and returned by the higher (low pressure). Have you tired bleeding the system by turning the steering wheel full left and right to the stop?
What is the condition of the fluid, dark, burned smell? Try replacing it using a turkey baster to drain and refill the resevoir. Do this enough time over say one month and the fluid will be clean.
Check Carmy posts as the issue of pump noise has come up, they are almost the same car.
I bought a turkey baster, but the resevoir's hole is too small for it.
I don't think bad fluid would make so much noise though.
If it works fine aside from the noise I would definatly try changing the fluid first. A company called Lucas makes a great steering addative that helps with leaks and pump noise. Worked great on my wifes old camry anyway. I woud try new fluid first. Remember its ATF not regular power steering fluid.
Get a small section of clear plastic hose at a hardware store. Inlarge the hole in the turkey baster (very carefully use a drill), install hose and epoxy glue it in place. The hose will be able to reach the bottom of the resevoir. Works great.
If you do this, in the future you can change the fluid on a reqular basis which will greatly increase pump life.
This issue is what to do if the fluid is not the cause; as is removing and checking the hoses, changing the pump. As such best to do the least and cheapest first.
When using the baster technique, is there any problem with air getting into the power steering system? How about using this technique on your brake master cylinder to "change" brake fluid.
When using the baster technique, is there any problem with air getting into the power steering system? How about using this technique on your brake master cylinder to "change" brake fluid.
-Kirk
usually the air will work its way out. however, brake fluid is different, you want to make sure there is ZERO air in it; bleeding fixes this problem.
My PS pump whines until the engine gets warmed up. I've been thinking about flushing the system, and changing over to synthentic fluid. I didn't know it took regular transmission fluid though, I've put regular power steering fluid in before. Anyway...
You should be able to use the turkey baster to remove all the fluid in the reservoir.
Then disconnect the return (top) line, and point that into a bucket.
Then full the reservoir back up with synthetic, but not high enough to pour out of the now-open upper hose opening. Or plug the opening and then fill'er up. Start the car, and run until the return tube squirts out new, clean fluid. Be sure not to let the level in the reservoir get below the level of the bottom tube.
Never had a problem with air in the system when using the turkey baster method. The older Toyota’s usually use ATF fluid, most likely Dextron III. The owner’s manual should have the details or look on the reservoir cap.
Don’t have any info on replacing the PS fluid with synthetic; you might lower the return line as far as possible as the fluid will stop moving once the pump runs out.
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Powersteering problems...
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