Fuel filter

[ChiTDI]

My dealer keeps saying no to fuel filter (under the brake master cylinder) changing.
I'm looking at 90,000 miles and scratching my head.
He states "system is sealed" and not to open it unless I got bad gas. Which I haven't.
Any experience?

[edbro]

I believe he is correct. In the States, all the fuel pumps are filtered and there is usually no reason to need to service the fuel filters.

I thought the filter was under the back seat?

[toyomoho]

The fuel tank has a filter screen. The fuel filter can be changed as any other fuel filter but the system remains pressurized when engine is off. If the engine is running OK, the filter should be OK. If you do attempt to change it make sure you have the correct flare nut wrenches to avoid rounding over the fuel line fittings.

[ChiTDI]

It's like any domestic system correct? Depressurize the system. Use the flare wrenches as you stated, rag or paper to catch the spill when the system's opened, and R&R with the new one.
The contaminants are from the gasoline I thought.

[toyomoho]

Yes, same as domestic auto’s. Some owners have had problems getting the tubing nut to break loose.

[steve326a]

Originally Posted by toyomoho

Yes, same as domestic auto’s. Some owners have had problems getting the tubing nut to break loose.

I suggest you remove the rear seat cushion and pull the floor plate to the gas tank. Disconnect the wire harness going to the gas tank. Next start the engine and wait until it stalls. This will effectivly depressurize the fuel system. And yes be extremely careful opening the fuel line from the filter. There is no support itself and you can easily twist and possibly damage the fuel line. After the filter is replaced, reconnect the wire harness to the fuel tank. Now before you turn that key on, have someone with a flashlight keep an eye on the filter to make sure it doesn't leak fuel when you turn on that key. Then put key to on but don't start it yet. Check for leaks 1st. If it is leaking, shut key off immediately. When depressurized, correct leak and try again. If there is no leak, then start the engine then again check for leaks. If after 2 minutes or so, if you see no leaks, job well done.

[ChiTDI]

That makes a lot of sense. I went to the fuel tank and saw the connections you spoke of, and the filter under the master cylinder has NO support. Twist and shout seems like a real possibility. I'll let it go for a while.
Thanks.

[Mike Murrell]

Question for original poster.

What year/model of Avalon are you taking about?

Steve 326A's thoughts are good. I would have thought to pull fuel pump relay and run until it stops, but Steve's plan may actually be better.

I've always been a bit stumped by the "no-servce" fuel filters. All filters can/will plug up. It's similar to the no-change transmission fluid non-sense.

Car mfgs. are building 100K throw-aways so you'll come back every 4 to 5 years and reline their pockets.

[ChiTDI]

That would be an '02 XL with the 3.0 V6.
Your analogy to the trans is why I posted the question. i have drained trans religiously every 15k, and at 75k it was really dark and needed to be flushed. Now near 90k I'll drain the trans again, but my thinking keeps me looking at that fuel filter and a vision of black juice coming out of it. Yuck.

[Mike Murrell]

Yeah....if it were my car, I would change it.

$10 will buy you a 1 day subscription to the factory service manuals for your Toyota at the following WEB site:

http://techinfo.toyota.com

You can download as much as you can in this 24 hr. period.

In my case the hard-copy FSMs for an '06 Avalon totalled $353.06 + shipping. For $10 I got about 90% of it. What I didn't get was material I'd never use as a do-it-yourselfer.

[tonisavalon]

where is the fuel pump relay/ fuse located on my 98 avalon? would it have another name listed in relay box?