1995 Avalon Check engine light . Help please - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

nashbap · 08-31-2007, 10:51 PM

Hi:

I have a 1995 XLS with 133000 miles that I have owned since 1997. I do my own work but am perplexed with the Check Engine Light coming on recently. The car seems to run perfectly. I disconnected the battery and the light comes back on in about 20 miles of driving. Going thru some previous postings I shorted TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic connector with the key on but the check engine light does not blink. It just remains on steady. Could anyone please advise me as to what to do.

Thanks.

Nash

Qslim · 08-31-2007, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nashbap

Hi:

I have a 1995 XLS with 133000 miles that I have owned since 1997. I do my own work but am perplexed with the Check Engine Light coming on recently. The car seems to run perfectly. I disconnected the battery and the light comes back on in about 20 miles of driving. Going thru some previous postings I shorted TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic connector with the key on but the check engine light does not blink. It just remains on steady. Could anyone please advise me as to what to do.

Thanks.

Nash

You won't get anywhere with the ol' underhood short. Your car doesn't provide for retrieving a code without a scan tool. Swing by AutoZone or the equivalent and get the code read, and let us know whats up.

nashbap · 09-01-2007, 11:50 AM

Thanks. I didn't think mine is OBDII since that started in 1996 but perhaps it is. Is that why you recommend the scan tool. Should I buy one for an OBDII car?

Nash

***toyomoho*** · 09-01-2007, 11:59 AM

Check under the hood for a sticker stating if the car is ODBII complient. The ODBII plug should be under the dash in the area near the steering column. Do a Google search to see what the plug looks like and where it normally is. The plug and area are standardized. Some Toyota's (and other makes of cars were OBDII complient in 1995.

Autozone will read codes for free,

nashbap · 09-01-2007, 06:20 PM

There is no sticker under the hood saying that the car is OBDII compliant. There is however an OBD type connector along with some fuses under a cover at the bottom left side of the dash near the driver door. It looks similar to the connector on a newer car so I suppose I should plug in an OBDII scan tool and read the codes. Thanks.

Nash

avalontom · 09-02-2007, 03:37 AM

nashbap,

I have a '95 - they are OBDII compliant. AutoZone can read your code.

Tom

nashbap · 09-02-2007, 10:27 AM

Thanks Tom for clearing this up. Will do so in the next few days and will report back.

Nash

Qslim · 09-02-2007, 11:53 AM

Anyone wanna take bets on what Nash's code will be? I'll put 10 fake internet dollars with 3:1 odds on-

PO130 - O2 sensor malfunction B1 S1
or
PO135 - O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction B1 S1

Anyone?

nashbap · 09-02-2007, 06:18 PM

Qslim you win!!
I get code P0135.
Is this for the o2 sensor between the firewall and the engine? Since the code refers to the heater circuit what does this mean? What do you recommend? Thanks in advance.

Nash

wonger · 09-02-2007, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Qslim

Anyone wanna take bets on what Nash's code will be? I'll put 10 fake internet dollars with 3:1 odds on-

PO130 - O2 sensor malfunction B1 S1
or
PO135 - O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction B1 S1

Anyone?

ill take your bet and say its a vacuum leak .. replace your engine air filter??

anywas what was the last work done to the car before this light came on.. ??

Qslim · 09-03-2007, 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nashbap

Qslim you win!!
I get code P0135.
Is this for the o2 sensor between the firewall and the engine? Since the code refers to the heater circuit what does this mean? What do you recommend? Thanks in advance.

Nash

Someone owes me fake internet money!

The heater circuit in the O2 sensor is there to heat it up to operating temperature where it operates more efficiently. It's a resistor inside the sensor that just burns out over time, and for some reason the rear bank is more prone to do this (maybe because it gets hotter between the engine and firewall, I don't know). Anyway, it adds up to replacement.
The rear bank is a pain in the ass. I don't remember if you can get to it from the top or not. Take a look from the driver side, on some 6cyls you can get a tool down there through a space around the back of the airbox/brake booster area. Whether you do it yourself or take it to a shop, do yourself a favor and soak the sensor a few times for several hours in penetrating oil. Those rear sensors have a propensity to seize in their threads when they come out, and if that happens you could be looking at hours and hours of additional labor to pull the exhaust manifold.

nashbap · 09-04-2007, 10:31 AM

Just to be sure, I disconnected the O2 sensor connectors at each bank and measured the resistance across the black wires at each sensor. The sensor near the radiator measured about 14 ohms while the one near the firewall was an open confirming what was suspected that the sensor needs to be replaced.
Thank you very much all of you for your help.

Nash

wonger · 09-05-2007, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nashbap

Qslim you win!!
I get code P0135.
Is this for the o2 sensor between the firewall and the engine? Since the code refers to the heater circuit what does this mean? What do you recommend? Thanks in advance.

Nash

CHEATER lol glad u got it taken care of