1997 Avalon XLS leaking steering rack replacement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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1st Generation (1995-1999) Specific discussion of the first generation Toyota Avalon

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Old 10-08-2007, 08:36 AM   #1 (permalink)
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1997 Avalon XLS leaking steering rack replacement

ok, I finally need to address the leaking steering rack on my daughter's 97 Avalon. Is it really necessary to remove the steering wheel as stated in the Lexus ES300 repair manual (I assume the Avalon is a close cousin to the ES300?) I would assume that I could just disconnect the rack input shaft from the steering shaft? What is the correct process for the Avalon?
Any other replacement advise would be appreciated.

Thanks

Last edited by Ross_t; 10-08-2007 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 10-08-2007, 05:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Suggest you do a TN Camry history search as the topic of replacing the steering rack has come up many times. The Camry is almost the same car as the Avalon.
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Old 10-08-2007, 08:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Of the hundreds of racks I've replaced, I've never found a need to remove a steering wheel. There is a bolt at the end of the steering shaft, and when you remove it it will slide off the splines of the rack input shaft.
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Old 10-11-2007, 11:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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STEERING
– POWER STEERING GEAR

SR–35
1997 AVALON (RM504U)
REMOVAL
1. PLACE FRONT WHEELS FACING STRAIGHT AHEAD
2. REMOVE STEERING WHEEL PAD
(See page
SR–12)
3. REMOVE STEERING WHEEL
(See page
SR–12)
4. DISCONNECT RH AND LH TIE ROD ENDS
(See page
SA–9)
5. DISCONNECT INTERMEDIATE SHAFT
(See page
SR–12)
6. DISCONNECT CLAMP PLATE

Remove the nut.
7. DISCONNECT PRESSURE FEED AND RETURN
TUBES
Using SST, disconnect the tube.
SST 09631–22020
8. DISCONNECT STABILIZER BAR
Remove the 4 bolts.
HINT:
Do not remove the bar.
9. REMOVE NO.1 FUEL TUBE PROTECTOR
Remove the 2 bolts and nut.
10. REMOVE PS GEAR ASSEMBLY
(a) Remove the 2 gear assembly set bolts and nuts.
HINT:
Lift up the stabilizer bar and remove the bolts.
(b) Remove the gear assembly from the LH of the vehicle.
NOTICE:
Do not damage the turn pressure tubes.
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Old 10-28-2007, 04:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I finally got around to replacing the very leaky Avalon steering rack with a Pep Boys rebuilt. I didn't remove the steering column, there's enough travel to remove the steering column piece. I did have to replace the rack high pressure metal line and return line, (Toyota $111.00.....) In rust country, these pieces typically aren't reuseable. Not too bad a job, but would have been easier with a lift. I did a tape measure toe in adjustment, but will have the local garage fine tune this for me.
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Old 10-28-2007, 06:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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no you just need to disconect from the yoke,just make shur the steering wheel dosnt turn,you dont want a airbag light on,
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Old 10-29-2007, 09:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveart View Post
no you just need to disconect from the yoke,just make shur the steering wheel dosnt turn,you dont want a airbag light on,

Yes, I locked the steering as straight on as I could get it. Getting the yoke off the input shaft was a bit hard. Not much access.
I set the toe in with a tape measure, but need to get it accurately set at the shop.
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Old 10-30-2007, 08:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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ok, looks like I get to change the rack out again... The rebuilt rack has an issue where the rebuilder apparently cut the seat for the steel return line too deep. My new (oem Toyota) flare nut bottoms out before the pipe flare seals. This is causing leakage at the fitting. I should have just resealed my original rack.....My question to the experts: my replacement outer tie rod ends came without jam nuts. The original rack? I assume original had no jam nuts on the outer ends. Is this the OEM setup? Should there be jam nuts? I would assume so.
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:21 AM   #9 (permalink)
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yes they should or they will come off,
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Old 11-01-2007, 05:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Is there any marking on the rack input shaft in order to indicate it's centered?
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Old 11-01-2007, 11:56 AM   #11 (permalink)
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well no as long as the yoke and hold on brakets line up it should be centered
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Old 11-05-2007, 08:50 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I had the pleasure of changing my Pep Boy replacement rack a second time yesterday. The first remanufactured rack had some serious issues, from leaks to rack/pinion slippage under cornering. The second unit seems to be ok. In retrospect, I probably should have bought an OEM rack... Centering, I found the best way was to count lock to lock and split the number with the yoke loose, adjust the wheel centered when the rack was centered, lock down the yoke.

Last edited by Ross_t; 11-05-2007 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 11-05-2007, 11:12 AM   #13 (permalink)
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man that really sucks. I'm in a similar boat. my 97 developed a pretty serious leak. everytime I park somewhere, an oil spot about 8-10 inches in diameter is left behind. I'm pretty sure its my PS pump or the high pressure hose though.
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Old 11-05-2007, 12:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000-Avalon View Post
man that really sucks. I'm in a similar boat. my 97 developed a pretty serious leak. everytime I park somewhere, an oil spot about 8-10 inches in diameter is left behind. I'm pretty sure its my PS pump or the high pressure hose though.
Take a good look at the rack boots and see if they have any oil in them. Pretty common problem with this car. Mine was only leaking on the right side, so I really had to clean everything in order to rule out hoses and the pump.
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Old 11-14-2007, 12:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Geez, my second Pep Boys rack started leaking! I re-seated/redid a fitting on the rack and seemed to stem the leak. Word of advice to anyone doing this replacement is to get the rack from a reliable/quality vendor. Maybe even go OEM for this part... Not worth the hassle redoing the replacement.
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