Whenever I drive for a prolonged amount of time I can smell a burning smell coming from the engine, I am about 1,000 miles past my oil change, but I don't think that would cause the burning smell. Also, the transmission shifts a little differently when I detect the burning smell, so I am thinking that they are related to one another. Can some one give me an insight as to why this happening?
Drain a bit of transmission fluid and see what it looks like. If it looks like cherry cough syrup, thats good. If it looks like dark chocolate milk, thats bad. Also, does the fluid smell burnt?
Yeah, it smells burnt. I also have a lot of dirt built up on my engine, could getting the engine pressure washed stop the smell. Edbro, i should just pm you w/ all my questions since you are very knowledgeable.
You need to get that fluid changed fairly soon! You can do a series of drain and fills yourself, or take it and get it flushed. There are pros and cons to either way. A flush is thorough but with an older transmission it could dislodge bad gunk that is best left untouched.
If you decide to drain and fill, don't forget the transfer case that sits directly behind the trans fluid pan.
When I do a drain/fill, I will do a series of about 3 or four with about 1500 miles in between. Also, you might want to drop the transmission pan and take a look. There will be a few magnets in there to collect any shavings. If there is a lot of metal shavings then it is a sign of bad things to come. Some metal is normal.
I checked my transmission fluid, and that is where the smell is coming from, I also examined the color, it's dark red, but red nontheless. Would getting the fluids changed take care of the smell, and the shifting as well.
I checked my transmission fluid, and that is where the smell is coming from, I also examined the color, it's dark red, but red nontheless. Would getting the fluids changed take care of the smell, and the shifting as well.
Don't know but, it is a very good and necessary first step.
Just disregard the parts about torque converter ATF. The pics for the transmission pan and transfer case are the same on the Avalon.
If you do a simple drain and fill then you will not be getting all of it out. You would need to do a series of drain and fills. If you want to do a complete drain, then look at method 2 quoted here: http://www.auto-rx.com/auto-rxnet/pa...icationsB.html
I went and got the transmission flushed. There is still a bunch of dirt & gunk on my engine externally would this cause for the burning smell to occur? Another question is how can I solve the engine sludge probelm that most Toyota's have?
I went and got the transmission flushed. There is still a bunch of dirt & gunk on my engine externally would this cause for the burning smell to occur? Another question is how can I solve the engine sludge probelm that most Toyota's have?
I've used it in both of my cars and swear by it. I've read many good reviews.
Do a web search for "auto-rx sludge"
I doubt that gunk on the engine would cause a burning smell. But, it isn't good either. All that gunk will hinder the engines ability to stay cool. (True, most cooling is through radiator).
I think it was around $25/bottle but I got 4 for $20 (2 cars). Cheap insurance for an engine prone to sludge. Both of my cars have the same exact engine. The other is a Lexus RX300.
Yes, I followed the schedule. Add Auto-RX for 1500 miles followed by a 2000 mile flush period. All using regular dino oil, not synthetics.
No, Auto-Rx will not get your pep back. The best thing for that is a product called Seafoam. Again, do a web search on it and you will find lots of good reviews.
Seafoam can be added directly to the fuel tank for preventive cleaning. But, for best results, you need to suck some up into the manifold. Take a look at this thread: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...590&hl=seafoam
Be sure to watch the Youtube video referenced in that thread.
Some recommend sucking it into a brake booster line. I sucked it in through the PCV line as it is closer to the manifold.
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