time to replace Avalon Power Steering Rack?

[stevescivic]

My 1995 Toyota Avalon needs a new steering rack. How long does it take a decently competent home mechanic to replace it?

I have all the air tools/pullers/jacks/sockets/wrenches that most mainstream shops have. The only thing I lack is a hoist.

I'm assuming that the procedure to replace the rack mirrors that of the toyota Camry?

Thanks

[cexsiman]

i would strongly concur with that statement that its the same as the camry. there might be some small nuisances that are different, but they share engines, and suspensions, so i see no reason that they would not share that as well.

[sheepwundr]

you might want to put aside a weekend seeing as you dont have a lift. how are you taking the rack out?

[stevescivic]

Literally unbolting it, removing the tie rods and whatever the heck the engine carriage is and then taking it out from the left side engine/suspension opening.

is there a certain way I should remove it? There was a pretty good write up in the camry forum so I'm assuming that its pretty much going to be the same. Is there something that I should watch out for?

Bottom line is that mechanically proficient I am since I've been turning wrenches on honda's now for about 13 years doing all sorts of engine swaps and suspension work. I've never replaced a steering rack until now so this hopefully will be a walk in the park.

I'm assuming the basic steps are:

1. Raise car
2. Remove wheels
3. Disconnect line set
4. Center steering wheel and lock it in place
5. Disconnect tie rod ends
6. Remove input spline (no removal of steering column needed)
7. Tilt engine forward or backwards to gain clearance to sway bar mounts
8. Remove swaybar endlinks that tie it to control arm
9. unbolt swaybar and leave it in the car
10. unbolt rack unit
11. Pull rack unit out from left side of car by left wheel well.
12. Prepare new rack (centering the rack 1.5 turns from end to end
13. Reinstall in reverse order
14. Flush/bleed system
15. Get wheel alignment.

Correct me if I'm wrong but this is the gist of it no?

Thanks

[TMack409]

TAke out the rear Oxygen Sensor before you begin.
Upon reassembly, Make damn sure you tighten those giant nuts holding the rack in place to spec. Mine came loose about 6 months later as I failed to realize just how bloody tight they need to be. In fact next time I do it, I'm going to invest in a 19mm 6 point swivel impact socket. I nearly pushed the car off the jack stands getting them loose with my 20 inch breaker bar!

[Ditto the bloody nut on the P/S pump - it came loose while out of town and I had to pay GoodYear $350 to replace the nut! My British car breaks when I really tighten things down - but I don't think you can overtighten the Toyota ;-)]

You don't need a hoist. Read my write up - you can find it using search engine here.

The Camry book is all you need. It took me the better part of the weekend cause I'd never done anything like it. Well OK I did replace the rack on my Jaguar 4 years ago - but I'd forgotten everything I learned and besides it was nothing like the Avalon.

I do remember that the steering wheel did not line up properly when I got done but the tire shop where I took it for the alignment took care of it.

[stevescivic]

would you advise using loctite on the steering rack mounting bolts?

Would a 600 ft lb impact gun work on getting those crazy tight bolts off? Its a pro impact gun that can break crankshaft bolts loose....

Thanks

[TMack409]

Originally Posted by stevescivic

would you advise using loctite on the steering rack mounting bolts?

Would a 600 ft lb impact gun work on getting those crazy tight bolts off? Its a pro impact gun that can break crankshaft bolts loose....

Thanks

I sure have thought alot about loktite in hindsight............but it's your call.
Acutally just torque 'em to spec and they wont come off. My guess would be about 160 - 200 ft lbs.

A 600 lb impact will indeed get them off - but not without a swivel on the socket. Double check my memory though - I am pretty sure it's 19mm but I could be wrong.

Again, I think everything I know about it can be found here using the search feature of the forum.

[sheepwundr]

ive done a few power steering racks and never removed the o2 sensor. why remove the sensor?

[TMack409]

Originally Posted by sheepwundr

ive done a few power steering racks and never removed the o2 sensor. why remove the sensor?

It made life much easier for me. But then I am DIY, not a Professional.

[csaxon]

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

about half way down the page..good info

[TMack409]

Originally Posted by csaxon

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

about half way down the page..good info

Wow: My intuition was correct: (see step #4)
>>>Fig. 3: Location of bolts A and B on the intermediate shaft-1994-96 models

1. Disconnect the power steering line clamp.
2. Disconnect the pressure and feed lines.
3. Unbolt the stabilizer bar, but do not remove it.
4. On the 1MZ-FE engine, remove the heated oxygen sensor.
5. Lift up the stabilizer bar and remove the 2 gear assembly set bolts and nuts. Remove the gear assembly from the left side of the vehicle.<<<

[sheepwundr]

like i said ive never removed the o2 sensor to do a power steering rack it could be precaution not to damage the sensor. then again what do i know only used to work on them. just trying to make sure he doesnt open a can of worms.

[TMack409]

Originally Posted by sheepwundr

like i said ive never removed the o2 sensor to do a power steering rack it could be precaution not to damage the sensor. then again what do i know only used to work on them. just trying to make sure he doesnt open a can of worms.

Yeah, I know what you mean about can of worms - that sensor is very difficult to reach - even if you have the proper tool. They are known to be seized as well. It's problematic /troublesome to remove, even under ideal conditions.

[Ross_t]

A few thoughts on this subject. I would plan on replacing the bottom half of the high pressure hose if the car has spent any time in the rust belt area of the country. No, the o2 sensor does not have to come out, just move the wires going to it up and out of the way. Maybe tape them up.
Buy *a QUALITY* rebuilt rack!!! The Pep Boy special I bought was a mess: leaked and slipped in cornering. The second one leaked, but I fixed it with a new seal... Cost me two alignments and a bunch of my time.

Also, the sway bar mount bolts do not need to be loosened. Just undo the end link and it will swivel out of the way for the rack mount bolts
The rack comes out the driver's side and will need to be turned in order to clear.

[TMack409]

Originally Posted by Ross_t

A few thoughts on this subject. I would plan on replacing the bottom half of the high pressure hose if the car has spent any time in the rust belt area of the country. No, the o2 sensor does not have to come out, just move the wires going to it up and out of the way. Maybe tape them up.
Buy *a QUALITY* rebuilt rack!!! The Pep Boy special I bought was a mess: leaked and slipped in cornering. The second one leaked, but I fixed it with a new seal... Cost me two alignments and a bunch of my time.

Also, the sway bar mount bolts do not need to be loosened. Just undo the end link and it will swivel out of the way for the rack mount bolts
The rack comes out the driver's side and will need to be turned in order to clear.

Yeah, I went with O'Rielly's Rack and Pump. No probs so far.....but I normally buy everything from the dealer FWIW. (because I just hate doing any job like this twice.)
Aye, I wish I had known about your tip on just removing the links!!!! The sway bar mounts removal process is indeed a huge time waster!