1995 avalon, need to replace O2 sensor, where is it?
Hello,
I have a '95 avalon XLS and the check engine came on. I had the codes scanned and the code came up as P0135, O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1). I think there are at least two O2 sensors and I don't know which one to replace. Can someone please tell me where the "bank 1, sensor 1" O2 sensor is located and if it is before or after the catalytic converter. Thanks a lot.
Derek
Last edited by fastang302; 12-01-2007 at 03:40 PM.
"Sensor 1" tells you it is in front of the cat, and "bank 1" is the bank at the rear of the engine bay. The sensor you're looking for is between the engine and the firewall just above the steering rack.
with the engine cool,take out the airbox and hose and anything connected. lube that old 02 sensor with some pb blaster. grab your 22mm wrench and crack it loose. hopefuly it will come out easily. hopefully that helped. its not a very involving procedure
Well I was nervous as well but knew I should change
them BEFORE any code shows.
Its not too bad as the other people said unless it has a love affair with the exhaust mani and does not want to be taken out.
I went right to work got the car lifted up and it is a bit of a trick to work your hand in a awkward manner but it turned loose the first attempt.
I have been adding Berrymans into the gas tank like twice a month.
it has been a very good help to me an I feel it is just as good as Seafoam
but is only for the gas tank. seafoam is a great product too.
I have used it in my oil right before flushing/change and know my engine loves me for this!!
Now days we must take care of our babies as the manufactors seem to think we should keep gettin a new car every so often and I think its
best to keep the good ones I am grateful to toyota for designing the 1995-96 to me they are the best nex to the 1968 Corona ...
i warmed up the car until i just started to get an indication on the temp gauge, then shut it off, and sprayed the sensor - manifold joint with pb blaster. let the engine cool. i went at mine from the top drivers side. a 22mm wrench and a 2 foot length of pipe, just for reach. came out like buttah.
the electrical connector, on the other hand.... it would help if you were a magician or could do sign language. practice on the front O2 connector, save some knuckle meat.
PB Blaster is similar to WD-40 in what most people would use it for, but its used more-so for breaking parts loose. It tends to penetrate and seep into tight places, like the threads between the O2 sensor an the manifold. Its actually pretty cool to watch, just not in the eyes! I used to use the stuff all the time at my last job. As long as you're patient with it, you can free almost anything.
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PB Blaster is similar to WD-40 in what most people would use it for, but its used more-so for breaking parts loose. It tends to penetrate and seep into tight places, like the treads between the O2 sensor an the manifold. Its actually pretty cool to watch, just not in the eyes! I used to use the stuff all the time at my last job. As long as you're patient with it, you can free almost anything.
FWIW, the pb blaster (joeho mentioned he used it also) can be found at walmart.
it seems to me a little better than liquid wrench, and much, much better than WD40.
The Following User Says Thank You to Jack Deth For This Useful Post:
Keep in mind, all products have their intented purpose. I would use PB for breaking a bolt loose, where I would not use WD40 for that purpose.
And because I mentioned it, PB blaster is fairly aggressive, it will eat some plastics and rubber, its on par with gasoline. I only used PB blaster if I needed to break a bolt free, or dissolve little chucks of whatever, aggressive cleaning. My first alternative to PB blaster is using a MAPP torch.
WD40, the WD means water displacement and the 40 was the test that proved successful. I found WD40 incredibly useful in locks, prolonging rubber material, and exposed bare metal surfaces (old toolboxes, salt spreaders etc.) It provides a slick film, where as PB eventually evaporates. I rarely used WD for stubborn or seized parts.
Grease, (lithium, graphite etc) should be used on applications that involve primarily involve moment, like hinges, chains, gears and the like.
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Last edited by Jigg007; 02-06-2011 at 07:40 PM.
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Jigg007 For This Useful Post:
I also used PB Blaster, and after I was able to get my hand down there, I used an open-end wrench to get it turned. After the initial twist, I got it out by hand. The hardest part was just squeezing my arm down in there! Also, I had a 7/8" O2 sensor socket, but it wouldn't work. It was just a bit too big and it would spread open and twist off of the sensor.
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-- Get him, boy....
It worked fine until I fixed it! 
oxy replace
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