My 1996 with 185,000 miles has one remaining small oil leak. It must be from the crankshaft seal as I have just replaced the valve cover gastkets etc etc. The trace amounts of oil evidence themselves at the back of the oil sump and pan. I don't notice it at all unless I drive really aggressively - then the smell of burning oil (on the muffler/CAT) gives it away.
So, I'll probably live with it.
I did just have the dealership change the WP and timing belt. Wonder why they didn't catch it. (Or maybe they caused it?)
I had my rear main seal go out. Now the car is dead I'd get whatever fixed if I were you, never know when it will give out like mine did.
Mine wasn't a horrible leak, always kept an eye on my oil levels, then one night it just gave out and basically dumped oil out everywhere and killed the engine.
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RWD 5-speed Zoom-Zooms
My car has less body roll than I do.
When you want sports car handling, you buy a sports car.
I had my rear main seal go out. Now the car is dead I'd get whatever fixed if I were you, never know when it will give out like mine did.
Mine wasn't a horrible leak, always kept an eye on my oil levels, then one night it just gave out and basically dumped oil out everywhere and killed the engine.
Well, in the old daze, the rear main seal was the one nearest the transmission. I am not talking about that one. The seal I'm talking about is on the other side of the crank - at the timing belt side and water pump side of things. Is this the one you had fail and if so, at what mileage?
Also, just as an FYI, one of the benefits of synthetic oil is - if you run the engine dry (provided you catch it immediately and don't continue to drive with no oil), the engine will start back up just fine when you replace the oil.
With dino oil, this wont happen as you will have had metal to metal seizures and resultant galling.
Mine was confirmed as the rear main seal. It's been said this is a common problem with the 1mzfe engine. I'm not sure of the exact mileage, but it was pretty high up there.
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RWD 5-speed Zoom-Zooms
My car has less body roll than I do.
When you want sports car handling, you buy a sports car.
Over on the Camry forum, there are quite a few write-ups with pics on how to do the 5S engine [timing belt]. But none on the 1MZ-FE. Can it be that different?
I've DIY'd everthing on my Jaguar over the last 20 years, but for some reason, that 1MZ-FE engine is a lot more intimidating . ??? Maybe I'll just see what the dealer wants for the job and be done with it.....lot's of piece of mind there as they've never done me wrong. (But I only let them do major things like timing belt and WP - I DIY everything else.)
Last weekend, I sprayed BrakeKleen all over the oil wet areas of the oil pan and sump. I then drove 70 miles and then back [on a business trip]. No oil anywhere.
I took the RF wheel off so I could really see around in the area. I sprayed it all clean with BrakeKleen.
Found it! It's the cam cover gasket that I replaced - on the rear bank - up on the lh side where the cover goes over the cam bearing. Sheesh. I am going to try and pull back the timing belt cover enough to get some Aircraft Formagasket over the outside of that area.
Does anyone know if the plastic cover (over the timing belt) can be moved enough to expose that area of the cam cover (w/o removing the timing belts)?
Found it! It's the cam cover gasket that I replaced - on the rear bank - up on the lh side where the cover goes over the cam bearing. Sheesh. I am going to try and pull back the timing belt cover enough to get some Aircraft Formagasket over the outside of that area.
Does anyone know if the plastic cover (over the timing belt) can be moved enough to expose that area of the cam cover (w/o removing the timing belts)?
Cam sprockets indeed do have to come off in order to access that side of the metalic timing belt cover
Sheesh. A special tool is required to remove the cam sprocket.
Forget that, it may just well have to weep oil.
Oh and you can bet I am glad I had the shop manual! Putting the timing belt back on is a bloody chore, unless you've done it a few times. I now understand why I've always paid the dealer to actually replace it!!
With a very small paint brush, I swabbed some Aircraft (3H) Formagasket down in there as best I could. Fighting the wiring harness et al the whole time...
I just drove a 1200 mile trip. The oil pan is clean. I can't see any evidence of oil coming down the backside of the engine and down on to the pan [from the rear cam cover].
I still smell burnt engine oil if I drive it hard and come to a stop. But not that often. FWIW - I notice the front, leftmost side exhaust manifold, where it attaches to the engine has a damp retaining nut and stud. Not dry and rusty like the rest.... I wonder if I have a valve seal/ guide leaking? which leaches oil out onto that lower stud?? It's not oil soaked and dripping, just not totally dry and rusty like the rest of them.
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as I have just replaced the valve cover gastkets etc etc. The trace amounts of oil evidence themselves at the back of the oil sump and pan. I don't notice it at all unless I drive really aggressively - then the smell of burning oil (on the muffler/CAT) gives it away. 
I'd get whatever fixed if I were you, never know when it will give out like mine did. 
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