Brake light on dash

[ckyalliance222]

hey everybody,
i have a 99 avy which has been having some problems lately. first off the o2 sensor just died causing p1132 and p 1135 codes, which in turn caused the brain to turn off my traction control. but i got the new part (its in the mail) which sucked was its a california car so it costs 175! anyways... every winter for the passed 2 years, the brake light on the dash comes on randomly. ive noticed it comes on when i go around turns sometimes but sometimes itll just come on when im stopped, this has been going on wayy before the o2 sensor went though. i first thought maybe it was a float or something but thats just a stab in the dark. anyone have this problem or know how to fix it? its mainly just an annoyance and i dont think its causing any harm but i hate have lights come on

thanks for your time everyone!

[mmejia]

I am also having the same problem you are. I put in a custom exhaust and didn't put a catalytic converter, which of course made my engine light go on, and my turn off my traction control. I put in a cat recently, and it turned off the engine light and made traction control work again. Now, though, my ABS comes on, turns off traction control, and I am not sure why. Could this be because my O2 sensor burned out as well?

As for the brake light, I am having the same problem, but I can't figure it out. I guess it has to do with the cold somehow. I used the foot pedal brake the other day (I have a foot pedal instead of the console e-brake) and it seemed kind of loose, so I am going to have that checked out soon. I don't have a garage to do all this work in and it's getting cold out.

[Dave's]

Your light problem is most likely something really simple. Once the fluid gets a little low (which happens as the pads wear down) there's a sensor that sets the light. However, for a while it only comes on intermittantly as the fluid dips at the sensor as the car rocks and bounces.

[sseaman]

Originally Posted by Dave's

Your light problem is most likely something really simple. Once the fluid gets a little low (which happens as the pads wear down) there's a sensor that sets the light. However, for a while it only comes on intermittantly as the fluid dips at the sensor as the car rocks and bounces.

2nd

[cexsiman]

i have the exact opposite problem. in fact, today i drove 8 or so miles with my parking break slightly on and realized that i didnt notice because my brake light on the dash doesnt light up like it should.

[Dave's]

Originally Posted by cexsiman

i have the exact opposite problem. in fact, today i drove 8 or so miles with my parking break slightly on and realized that i didnt notice because my brake light on the dash doesnt light up like it should.

Does it light while starting the car? (All of the lights should come on as a test.) If not, it's probably burnt out.

[cexsiman]

yeah, its not burnt out, i figure its just the switch on the pedal, but i never use my parking break being that i live in florida and all, so i never noticed it before.

[ckyalliance222]

i had the same thing as the person above me happen also, like i said the light would come on and go off randomly, then there was a few times i did use my parking break and when i got in i wouldnt realize it was on because the light didnt come on. but what i just did a few days ago was drained the fluid out of the brake fluid tank and put in some new stuff. i havent seen the light come back on but then again it hasnt been as cold lately so now its just wait and see
ill keep you all posted, and thanks again for all the responses!

[oyovillage]

Look at the parking brake cable, make sure it is adjusted correctly.

If it is too loose, the foot pedal/lever will push too far down when you push to set the parking brake; then, the foot pedal/lever may not fully retract when you pull and let go of the release handle.

If that happens, the dash light may stay on, or may go off but illuminate again sporadically as the parking brake sensor switch contacts/opens, due to the foot pedal/lever not being fully retracted.

FSM says foot pedal should push down about 3 to 6 clicks, when engaging parking brake. Adjust the parking brake shoes at rear drums first, then adjust the parking brake cable.

Mine was so loose that foot lever would push to the floor, and would not fully retract unless the release handle was held while lever was manually pulled up the last couple inches. After adjusting the parking brake cable (under center console box between front seats), the system works properly again.

[GOT BOOST]

Originally Posted by Dave's

Your light problem is most likely something really simple. Once the fluid gets a little low (which happens as the pads wear down) there's a sensor that sets the light. However, for a while it only comes on intermittantly as the fluid dips at the sensor as the car rocks and bounces.

I also have the same issue with the tail light indicator malfunction lamp illuminating when it is really cold.

My brake fluid level is full.
I have a new alternator
New battery
New positive cable teminal
New negative terminals
I have narrowed it down to a voltage drop. The car drops to 12 volts and below when I am sitting at the lights with the seat heater on, rear defrost on, and the auto climate control set to about 25 ish deg C.

I have yet to trace down the issue. I suspect it might be a ground somewhere.

[MrFun]

Thanks for the input. I suspected that low brake fluid in the reservoir may be the problem and shouldn't complain as I have had the brakes inspected every 10K to 15K miles since I hit 90K. I am now up to 134K on the originals. Perhaps it is time to replace them! MrFun.

[mmejia]

Got Boost,


If you have replaced any of your tail lights with LEDs instead of regular bulbs, that might be your problem. The sensor checks the load in order to know if your lights are working, and LEDs use far less power.

I recently replaced my license plate bulbs with LEDs and the indicator keeps on turning on. I'm going to put in regular bulbs to make sure, though.

If the light really annoys you and you want it to actually tell you when things go bad, you could mod in a resistor to increase the load.

[GOT BOOST]

Originally Posted by mmejia

Got Boost,


If you have replaced any of your tail lights with LEDs instead of regular bulbs, that might be your problem. The sensor checks the load in order to know if your lights are working, and LEDs use far less power.

I recently replaced my license plate bulbs with LEDs and the indicator keeps on turning on. I'm going to put in regular bulbs to make sure, though.

If the light really annoys you and you want it to actually tell you when things go bad, you could mod in a resistor to increase the load.

There are no taillight mods with LED bulbs. I have replaced the one or two bulbs.

The issue only happens when the temperature is cold, ie Below zero Celcius.

When the brake is applied, the dash lights dim, and after a few moments if I am at a stop light, the indicator lamp illuminates.

The only non OEM electrical is that I am running Sylvania Silverstars for the high and low beams. I only have the issue when the head lights are on and in the cold. I doubt the silverstars are drawing that much current to cause a voltage drop.

[mmejia]

I see. I just have a doubt that it's a ground since it only happens in the cold. You could always try different bulbs just to make sure.

If you say your dash lights dim when you apply the brake, it could be something wrong with just the sensor on the brake pedal. There's a sensor that clicks when your first tap the brake pedal that allows you to shift out of park and what not.

[GOT BOOST]

Originally Posted by mmejia

I see. I just have a doubt that it's a ground since it only happens in the cold. You could always try different bulbs just to make sure.

If you say your dash lights dim when you apply the brake, it could be something wrong with just the sensor on the brake pedal. There's a sensor that clicks when your first tap the brake pedal that allows you to shift out of park and what not.

Thanks for the info.

I was planning to try different bulbs.

I will look for check out the sensor. I had not thought of that. It does create a massive voltage drop when the brake pedel is depressed. When the car is operating normally, ie) cruise on or just driving, there is no voltage drop.