egr replacement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

bristol24 · 12-09-2008, 07:44 PM

I have a 96 avalon 210000 miles, the engine code was p0401 egr flow not sufficent. What is involved with changing out the egr valve?

***toyomoho*** · 12-09-2008, 08:35 PM

The Autozone website has info on this issue.

Use the 1996 Camry 1MZ-FE engine, the same as your car. The Avalon is an upscaled Camry.

http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...00c152801ccba7

and1nick · 12-11-2008, 03:33 PM

Before shelling out the $150 for the new EGR, remove the valve and try cleaning it out with Seafoam Deep Creep. This $8 can just might surprise you. Be sure you get the Deep Creep since it was the only cleaner that did the trick, at least for me. Don't forget the 2 gaskets that should be replaced with it.

bristol24 · 12-12-2008, 07:28 AM

what is involved in removing the egr?

thanks in advance

bristol24 · 12-14-2008, 09:21 PM

do i just let it soak in the sea foam?

bristol24 · 12-17-2008, 07:27 AM

anyone? thanks in advance

chuckoff · 12-17-2008, 08:25 AM

Don't assume that EGR valve is the problem. It could also be the modulator, or the EGR VSV. Do you have access to a vacuum pump? Pulling a vacuum on a working EGR valve will kill the engine at idle. The modulator and VSV are what control the EGR valve. The code can be set by any of the three failing.

95AVALON_GUY · 01-09-2009, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by and1nick

Before shelling out the $150 for the new EGR, remove the valve and try cleaning it out with Seafoam Deep Creep. This $8 can just might surprise you. Be sure you get the Deep Creep since it was the only cleaner that did the trick, at least for me. Don't forget the 2 gaskets that should be replaced with it.

sorry for bringing an old thread back to life. But how do you go about removing the EGR? I have a CEL on b/c of the EGR too

and1nick · 01-18-2009, 12:01 AM

Let's start from the beginning.

First of all, the EGR valve is located next to the throttle body. It's sort of brown and rusty looking. The EGR is held on by 5 nuts that I believe are 10mm. There are three that are right in plain sight facing the front of the car. Remove these. There is no need to remove the nut holding the retaining bracket for the modulator(the space ship looking thing next to the valve).
Follow the EGR towards the underside of the intake. There are two nuts that are harder to get to which are facing the firewall. These also need to be removed.
Next you should disconnect the electrical connection for the tiny sensor on the valve.
Finally, label and disconnect the vacuum tubing to the modulator(there should be 3) and to the valve(only 1).
The trick in getting the valve out is to push the throttle cable holder either all the way down or up to allow enough clearance for removal of the valve.
Once you have the valve out, liberally soak both open ends with the Deep Creep and let it sit for awhile. If you've never cleaned it before you should be seeing a lot of clear Deep Creep turning a brown color. I would let it sit for about 30min to an hour to really soak in and break down the carbon deposits.
Now follow the reverse of these directions to reinstall. Keep in mind that you should replace the gaskets(both of them) when you reinstall the valve.

Hopefully after all this work you'll have a cleared check engine light, but I can't guarantee it. Chuckoff already made the point that any of the 3 components could be failing. My experience was that even after cleaning the valve with starter fluid or other cleaners and changing the modulator and vsv I had the code come back. Since I've used the deep creep to clean the valve about 4 months ago, I haven't had the code return.

stockride · 01-22-2009, 08:57 PM

can you soak the whole EGR assembly in the cleaner? or just to where the egr connects to the housing?

Quote:

Originally Posted by and1nick

Let's start from the beginning.

First of all, the EGR valve is located next to the throttle body. It's sort of brown and rusty looking. The EGR is held on by 5 nuts that I believe are 10mm. There are three that are right in plain sight facing the front of the car. Remove these. There is no need to remove the nut holding the retaining bracket for the modulator(the space ship looking thing next to the valve).
Follow the EGR towards the underside of the intake. There are two nuts that are harder to get to which are facing the firewall. These also need to be removed.
Next you should disconnect the electrical connection for the tiny sensor on the valve.
Finally, label and disconnect the vacuum tubing to the modulator(there should be 3) and to the valve(only 1).
The trick in getting the valve out is to push the throttle cable holder either all the way down or up to allow enough clearance for removal of the valve.
Once you have the valve out, liberally soak both open ends with the Deep Creep and let it sit for awhile. If you've never cleaned it before you should be seeing a lot of clear Deep Creep turning a brown color. I would let it sit for about 30min to an hour to really soak in and break down the carbon deposits.
Now follow the reverse of these directions to reinstall. Keep in mind that you should replace the gaskets(both of them) when you reinstall the valve.

Hopefully after all this work you'll have a cleared check engine light, but I can't guarantee it. Chuckoff already made the point that any of the 3 components could be failing. My experience was that even after cleaning the valve with starter fluid or other cleaners and changing the modulator and vsv I had the code come back. Since I've used the deep creep to clean the valve about 4 months ago, I haven't had the code return.

and1nick · 01-25-2009, 05:34 PM

I would soak the inside of the valve only since you don't really get anything out of soaking the exterior. You'll just be wasting the deep creep.

bristol24 · 01-26-2009, 06:59 AM

Any one know where I can get a vacuum switch valve?Tried several auto parts stores and they tell me its a dealer thing.