Seems easy enough. So then, for DRLs the headlights will come on, but instead you want the fog lights.
So, with the DRL function do the corner lamps light? I'll assume they dont.
I'm thinking this is a pretty quick fix. all you need is a 5 terminal relay., SPDT
Ask and ye shall receive
It should be noted that terminals 30 and 87A are spliced inline with the factory wiring.
EDIT2: fixxxed
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first off thanks for your help, and by the marker/corner lamp do you mean the parking lights? Also what are the coil on and coil off relays for? Lastly would you think that the fog lights would turn off when the headlights are on because it would be acting as the drls.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jigg007
Seems easy enough. So then, for DRLs the headlights will come on, but instead you want the fog lights.
So, with the DRL function do the corner lamps light? I'll assume they dont.
I'm thinking this is a pretty quick fix. all you need is a 5 terminal relay., SPDT
Ask and ye shall receive
It should be noted that terminals 30 and 87A are spliced inline with the factory wiring.
Yes, you are absolutely correct about the foglights turning off.
And yes, by marker lamps i do mean parking lamps.
Those coil on/off were just little pictures to explain how they act if you didn't know.
I got to think about this now.
Done, what a fun midnight brain teaser.
This will, when the DRLs are on the fog lights will be on, headlamps off
When headlights are turned on via switch, the marker lights also come on, overriding the relay and providing power back to the headlight
However, at anytime the foglights can be turned on via the fog light switch, or turn off, provided the headlights are already on.
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Thanks for your quick reply, I will work on it this weekend. One last question, can i wire the fogs to come on when the headlight switch is in the parking lamp position instead of in the headlight position. To me it doesn't make sense to have the headlights and foglights on when driving in fog, because the headlights reflect and give off a glare in my direction. Also I think it would look nice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jigg007
Yes, you are absolutely correct about the foglights turning off.
And yes, by marker lamps i do mean parking lamps.
Those coil on/off were just little pictures to explain how they act if you didn't know.
I got to think about this now.
Done, what a fun midnight brain teaser.
This will, when the DRLs are on the fog lights will be on, headlamps off
When headlights are turned on via switch, the marker lights also come on, overriding the relay and providing power back to the headlight
However, at anytime the foglights can be turned on via the fog light switch, or turn off, provided the headlights are already on.
Oh so it uses the high beams for drl. That makes little difference.
Also the foglight switch will allow you to turn on the foglights independent of the headlamps/DRLs current function. However, they obviously can not be turned off if the vehicle is in gear, unless if the headlamps or marker lamps are turned on, then they can only be turned on via the foglight switch.
this setup uses two new SPDT relays, from any auto parts store, sure. But they will run you some nice money($10 each). my suggestion is get them online or from a junker car, junkyard land. ($3or free) The easiest way to connect to the relay if using crimp terminals, of course you could just solder too. You will also need to create a new feed from the battery, so you will need an inline fuse holder and a 15-20A fuse. And wires and tape and all that crap.
There is a tap splice at the parking light wire, and an inline splice with the high beams and fog light wires. all splices are on the wire that recives 12 volts.
To find out which is which, with the car off, the safest is too remove the bulb from the socket, and check for continuity from each pin to the car frame. When you get 0 ohms or beep, then thats your ground lead, and the other is 12V.
My only concern with my design, is running the power for both high beam lights though only one of the OEM wire connectors. It depends on the size wire used in the factory wiring. If toyota used 16awg for the headlights then there should be no problem. but if its 18 awg, then maybe an issue after hours of operation(highbeams only). When you verify that it works, check the OEM lead (red in my drawing) and check if its warm or not after 30 minutes of highbeam use.
Happy modding
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Man you are amazing thanks, If I could I would pay you. I appreciate your help and I'll let you know if my mod is successful. Also the drls are on anytime the car is running. Anyways have a nice day!! Thanks
Quote:
My only concern with my design, is running the power for both high beam lights though only one of the OEM wire connectors. It depends on the size wire used in the factory wiring. If toyota used 16awg for the headlights then there should be no problem. but if its 18 awg, then maybe an issue after hours of operation(highbeams only). When you verify that it works, check the OEM lead (red in my drawing) and check if its warm or not after 30 minutes of highbeam use.
Cant I just use the wire from the Drl relay that activates the headlights to come on once the car is started??
Sorry from asking too many questions, is just that I dont want to mess up my car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jigg007
Oh so it uses the high beams for drl. That makes little difference.
Also the foglight switch will allow you to turn on the foglights independent of the headlamps/DRLs current function. However, they obviously can not be turned off if the vehicle is in gear, unless if the headlamps or marker lamps are turned on, then they can only be turned on via the foglight switch.
this setup uses two new SPDT relays, from any auto parts store, sure. But they will run you some nice money($10 each). my suggestion is get them online or from a junker car, junkyard land. ($3or free) The easiest way to connect to the relay if using crimp terminals, of course you could just solder too. You will also need to create a new feed from the battery, so you will need an inline fuse holder and a 15-20A fuse. And wires and tape and all that crap.
There is a tap splice at the parking light wire, and an inline splice with the high beams and fog light wires. all splices are on the wire that recives 12 volts.
To find out which is which, with the car off, the safest is too remove the bulb from the socket, and check for continuity from each pin to the car frame. When you get 0 ohms or beep, then thats your ground lead, and the other is 12V.
My only concern with my design, is running the power for both high beam lights though only one of the OEM wire connectors. It depends on the size wire used in the factory wiring. If toyota used 16awg for the headlights then there should be no problem. but if its 18 awg, then maybe an issue after hours of operation(highbeams only). When you verify that it works, check the OEM lead (red in my drawing) and check if its warm or not after 30 minutes of highbeam use.
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