Stereo Installation Help desperatly needed, PLEASEEE!!
I recently purchased a 96 avalon everything works great except for 2 things, the light for the gauges on the dash wont light up (fixed the fuze, I think its a dimmer problem) and my sterio isnt getting power. Ive checked all the fuzes in the driver side foot well and replaced the panel one, all the others are fine, but I havent check the fuze boxes under the hood.
The first problem is no big deal and I have it taken care of, the only reason I included it is because I thought it may have something to do with the stereo not working?
The stereo is an after market kenwood deck and its not turning on at all, I have check the fuze for the stereo/lighter its fine and the lighter works fine. I have the XLS which I think has the 6 speaker system which means that it had a factory amp. Now from what I can tell the guy before me had his own amp in the trunk, he left the amp wire running through the firewall which would make it quite easy to hook up an amp of my own. This being said, did this guy have to bypass the factory amp to hook up his own?
If so, would the problem be that he took his amp and since I dont have one the sterio isnt getting power? so an easy way to fix that would be to buy my own amp?
Thanks alot for you help, you guys are always great.
the amp and the radio are seperate. did u check the fuse under the hood. also some aftermarket radios have fuses on the back of them.the factory amp is under the passenger seat.
no power is pretty straightforward. double check your power wiring. usually there are 2 power wires, one taps into a circuit that powers on with the ignition (usually red), the other goes to a circuit that has power all the time, or straight to the battery (usually yellow, orange or blue). then there is a power ground wire (usually black, not to be confused with the speaker grounds) and finally the metal case gets grounded to a metal part of the chassis. disconnect all the other wires, and check for voltage (use a meter, less than $20) near the radio, with the key on.
if you have the proper power and ground connections and it still doesn't power up, you may have connected something wrong and burned it up. as a last resort, bring it right to the battery, both powers to the + terminal, the ground and the case to the - terminal. if it still doesn't power up, it's dead.
forgive me if some of this is a little dated, it's been a while.
if the original wiring harness is intact, let crutchfield be your friend. they sell adapters.
Okay so I pulled the trim off and took a look at the stereo, the problem is extremely obvious... the guy spliced one of the factory harnesses with the one on the deck and some of the wires have become disconnected. and when I pulled the deck out further all the wires just seperated, just a brutal wiring job, the only problem now is I have no idea what to connect to what.
Theres two pretty much identical factory harnesses there, one is spliced one is intact, would it be possible to get an adapter like you said and use the other intact harness thats sitting there unused? or would that harness be to a different thing?
Or would I have get an adapter and splice it in with the one thats already cut? which I really dont want to have to do
The one that's spliced into is the main harness that has power/antenna control/amp outputs. The second connector would be the one that goes to the trunk for the cd changer(if included).
The input wires on the amp should correspond to most of the wires on the back of the stereo on the bad harness,
okay so any idea what I would connect to what? theres alot of wires there
The aftermarket harnesses come with a guide that tells you which each color means. For example, the blue wire is the antenna wire or the power amp wire. It is used to indicate to the amp that the stereo is on.
Here is the list that came with my TWH-950 adapter.
It is way better to buy a $15 harness than to try to splice into the lines. If one does decide to splice, all connections should be soldered and taped or wrapped in heat shrink.
Imdisaster, He previously stated that the owner before him had already installed an aftermarket stereo by splicing into the factory harness.
nick, here is what all the colors on the factory harness mean: 12volt diagram
You may need to order the kenwood wiring harness in order to get the stereo installed properly as well. But you will, at the very least, require a manual for the kenwood stereo to find out what wires are supposed to go where.
__________________
Black 95 Avalon XLS 170k
Spectra Blue 02 Celica GT(Rolling Chassis)
2009 Kenworth T-660 (Cat c-15) 447k
Last edited by Chunkywolf; 04-26-2010 at 10:27 AM.
thats awesome man thanks!
I'm real lucky cuz theres already a kenwood harness on there thats been spliced, the best part is theres labels on all the wires...
So would it really be as simple as just connecting the coresponding wires? somehow I doubt it could be that easy lol.
Imdisaster, He previously stated that the owner before him had already installed an aftermarket stereo by splicing into the factory harness.
nick, here is what all the colors on the factory harness mean: 12volt diagram
You may need to order the kenwood wiring harness in order to get the stereo installed properly as well. But you will, at the very least, require a manual for the kenwood stereo to find out what wires are supposed to go where.
That is much more helpful than what the info I gave. I thought I recalled the colors being the same, but I just checked and the colors were the same on the stereo side...not the car side, so perhaps the color scheme is a standard and his Kenwood also uses that color scheme. They were the same for my Pioneer which came with the wiring information inside the manual. Perhaps the Kenwood manual is available online.
I pasted the wiring info from your link.
Quote:
1999 Toyota Avalon Stereo Wiring
Constant 12V+ White/Gray Dots
Switched 12V+ Black/Gray Dots
Ground Brown
Illumination Green
Dimmer n/a
Antenna Trigger Black/Red
Antenna Rear Window
Front Speakers 4" Doors
Left Front (+) Pink
Left Front (-) Purple
Right Front (+) Light Green
Right Front (-) Blue
Rear Speakers 5 1/4" Rear Doors
Left Rear (+) Black
Left Rear (-) Yellow
Right Rear (+) Red
Right Rear (-) White
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick9070
thats awesome man thanks!
I'm real lucky cuz theres already a kenwood harness on there thats been spliced, the best part is theres labels on all the wires...
So would it really be as simple as just connecting the coresponding wires? somehow I doubt it could be that easy lol.
It is that easy. As long as you make good connections (soldering is recommended) and you insulate them well so they don't short out against one another. I prefer heat shrink tubing for insulation because it doesn't move or become undone. It is harder to work with...especially in a tight space. If you use tape, be sure to use a good brand like 3M. Cheaper stuff has been known to release after a while.
Last edited by ImDisaster; 04-26-2010 at 10:53 AM.
Nick, it should be as easy as connecting the corresponding wires, but make sure to properly connect the wires, as Imdisaster said, with solder+proper taping.
__________________
Black 95 Avalon XLS 170k
Spectra Blue 02 Celica GT(Rolling Chassis)
2009 Kenworth T-660 (Cat c-15) 447k
Wow thats awesome, thanks for the help guys, your unreal
I'll let you know if anything goes wrong during the process!
You are welcome. Be careful with those wires, while working. For example, you don't want to short the constant power wire to ground. To be safe, you might want to unhook the battery.
how would I short the wire? honestly I know this sounds really stupid but I'm not entirely clear on the process of "shorting a wire"
and unhook the battery is rather easy is it not?
You "short" a wire when you put two wires together that have a different potential, for example a hot (positive) wire and a ground wire. You can do the same thing if you touch a hot wire to the frame. With little resistance between them, the wire will draw a huge current and blow a fuse, or worse, burn out a component. This could happen if, for example, you touch the constant 12v wire to any of the grounded wires, while working on it.
It is relatively easy to unhook the positive terminal from the battery and place it aside. Of course, when you do this, be careful not to short the positive terminal to the body or you can destroy the battery, and even have it explode. The best way to do this is to unhook the terminal and then place a nonconducting material between the battery terminal and the cable. For example you can loosen the terminal, raise the cable up and put a rolled up plastic grocery bag under it and then lower it back down on the bag. The bag acts as an insulator between the cable and the battery terminal.
Last edited by ImDisaster; 04-26-2010 at 01:07 PM.
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