What dyslexic engineer designed the mounting for this filter? I've only changed it 3x on my '97 XLS with 157k mi, and now I remember why. What should be 30 min turns into 1hr. The clamp bolt head is on the wrong side. My Haynes manual even suggests taking off the charcoal canister, in addition to the mandatory air filter box, to get at it. A very small ratchet can get in there, but geez, how simple would it have been to reverse the direction of the way the bolt goes in.
No problem taking mount off as per Digital Mag, but don't you still need to tighten the bracket bolt after it's been remounted and the fuel lines have been reconnected?
The Puralator filter I used has one bracket on the out end (top) that the fuel line has to line up with, so you need to be sure its lined up before the bracket is tightened. All this could have been eliminated by reversing the side the bracket bolt goes into vs taking off the mount.
Last edited by golfinator; 08-06-2010 at 07:49 AM.
Reason: clarification
I pulled it with relative ease on mine, and it was a very good thing I did. Obviously the service mechanics thought it was too much of a PITA b/c it hadn't been changed. You need 2 wrenches to loosen the flare fitting on the bottom of the filter, forget the wrench size, I had to just "see" with my hands. Then loosen the top with a suitable ratchet or wrench- THEN loosen the clamp. Pull the old filter, tap it on the ground a couple times, and pour the gas into a suitable waste container. If it's anything like mine, what comes out of the filter will be liquid mud. Trust me- it's better than changing the fuel pump.
I ususally fill up at local QuikTrip gas pumps. Since it was 40k mi since my last fill-up. I tore the filter apart and it was clean, as it was at the last change. http://i318.photobucket.com/albums/m...uelfilter2.jpg
Recommended 30K mi interval changes- overkill by Haynes? Climate you live in, how low you let your tank get before you stop for gas, might warrant filter change? Think I'm done with fuel filter changes for a long time.
I have trouble letting it go more than 60k. I tend to go for shorter maintenance intervals, rather than longer.
On the other hand, I remember GM V-8's with the tiny inlet filters on the Rochester carbs, and they'd last 15k while filtering the volume of gas for 10 mpg...without the first stage filter in the fuel tank.
I had the TB removed, so I thought to myself, why not tackle the fuel filter seeing how I already have the airbox out.
Remove Air box.
Top union bolt is 17mm.
Bottom nut is 14mm
Fuel filter bottom brace is 19mm
Filter strap bolts are all 10mm
Sure seemed like a lot of work for changing a filter..
Removing wheel not necessary, but gives a good visual of what you're trying to do if its your frist time. Also useful for using a rust penetrant on the bottom bolts.
Even with many applications of PB blaster, that bottom nut refused to give. Its best to position the wrenches as shown and with one fist, squeeze them together. EVENTUALLY, after several colorful words it broke free.
Easily fixed with a drill and new nut/bolt though. You can even choose what side you want to unbolt! Not like I ever plan replacing this again in my lifetime!
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It worked fine until I fixed it! 
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