My wife"s 95 started to have a cooling problem today. I noticed some antifreeze on the ground after we stopped. Found out it was boiling out of the reservoir. I had her start it up to see if i could see what was going on. Noticed that driver's side fan is not working with the other one is working fine. It's doesn't matter if the a/c is on or off the that fan doesn't work. The car is semi ok going down the road but when sitting a traffic lights heat up a good bit. I would like to some help on where to start. I thought about starting with a flush and change the thermostat. Any help would be appreciated.
All the times I've seen my cooling fans kick on they turn on and turn off together. So I think you either have a bad fan or a bad relay, an electrical problem. (the only difference I notice is that sometimes with the A/C the fans spin at a slower rate until the coolant gets hot enough to warrant full fan speed)
So, I know the car has multiple cooling fan relays, but I think both fans share the same relays, which really points the finger at your culprit radiator fan being bad. I would say take a voltmeter lead to the fan while running, but you might loose a finger or two. Better idea, unplug the fan power connectors to each fan. Put the key in the "run" position, but make sure the engine is off. then turn the A/C on and the fan connector should both have voltage. If they do, then your fan is busted. if they dont, then you have some funny wiring issue.
Make sure all the connectors and plugs are clean.
I would imagine the fans would kick in from the electric sensor picking up 195-205F.
Most thermostats are built so when they fail in operation, they open allowing coolant full circulation though the cooling system, which wouldn't cause overheating, just really long warm-up times.
Of course, this is all out of speculation and what I would do in your situation. I'm sure other members will contribute better.
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Just checked the voltage to the fan connector and do have almost twelve volts. So it should be the fan that is no good? I have another quick question. The book said to check the no. 1 fan relay for continuity. The book say it should have continuity between the 1 and 2 post and the 3 and 4 post. I check this and it doesn't have continuity between the 1 and 2 but does have it through the 3 and 4. So does that mean that relay is bad? Sorry for all the questions. But i am low on cash and i want to be sure i am right before i get a part. Can't afford to throw parts at it this time. Thanks for the help.
You check the relay while it was removed, i presume?Normally, two pins will always have continuity, as those two go to a coil winding that when energized, make the other two pins on the relay have continuity.
So, on a presumably functioning relay pins 3 and 4 will have continuity when two others, 1 and 2 dont. only when pins 3 and 4 are applied voltage will 1 and 2 conduct.
Take a 9 volt battery and touch it to the mentioned leads 3 and 4 and listen for a click. With the 9 volt still attached you sshould have continuity between pins 1 and 2.
However, the fact that one fan turns on and the other has voltage at the connector, strongly points out that your relay is fine, and your fan is the problem. Make sure the connectors are cleaned and not corroded.
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Thanks them makes sense now. I am positive that the fan is bad. I just wanted to make sure. I already have the fan out for replacement. I really do thank you for the help cause i had no clue.
Sorry to hear about your situation. Not sure what kind of quote you are getting, but if you are looking to get an OEM one, I do offer TN members 30% off MSRP plus actual shipping costs and $1.00 - $2.00 for materials. I see you are in NC so shipping shouldn't be a whole lot. Now depending on which fan motor you need, that would be somewhere between $144.00 and $165.00.
I am a Authorized Toyota Dealer and I sell only Genuine Toyota OEM parts. So whether you buy from me or not, I wish you the best of luck. If you need anything, even if it isn't parts related, just let me know.
My newest question. I looked to see how much that part was. My question is I see there is a coolant temperature senor and a coolant temperature switch. They look similar. Which one do I need?
The part I tested and assume is bad is located on the thermostat housing. It's facing up to the hood. Again I what thank all that helps me out.
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