So I upgraded my headunit, I didnt go expensive, just had to get away from the stock cassette player. Now I'm looking to change out the speakers, I've found quite a few speakers the right size, just wondering what you all have found in here are good speakers for the price? I'm not looking to spend a ton, just something that sounds good, don't need the car to thump. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanx
Trevor
PS
I'm not looking to do any cutting, so only speakers that fit, and the less filling of gaps I have to do, the better too.
If you only use them in your rear doors, what do you use in the fronts? Them seem to be about my price range, I actually found them on ebay for $45/pair.
I forgot to add, but it would be beneficial to install high pass filters (HPF) inline with the speakers to limit their bass reproduction. But depending on your headunit, you may be able to set a HPF filter.
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Do ya think it would sound good with 4 of the speakers instead of the way you did it? I'm kinda new to messin around with this stuff, just not sure. Seems to be fairly easy to put them in if I dont have to cut. I did the head unit myself. Did you have to fill any gaps with these speakers?
Trevor
If you did the head unit yourself, then I'm sure changing a set of speakers will be cake.
It was weird, the S45 speakers in the rear doors had a small gap, like 1/4" around the speaker. (maybe I got 3.5" speakers and didn't even notice.) Or the rear doors held 5.25" speakers.
Anyway, that garbage aside, the gap with the S45s in the rear door was easily fixed with silicone, (RTV Sealant) However, sticky window sealant foam would be easier to use, and you can see I used some in the fitting of my front door speakers.
One extra thing to mention, when you change out the speakers you should disconnect the OEM tweeter. But listen to some music with it and without it, and see what you like.
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Begin by checking the specs on the internal amp on your upgraded headunit.
Choose some speakers that have a low power handling rating. Ideally, it would be right under what your HU is rated at in RMS watts. This would ensure that enough power is going to your speakers and driven properly.
Some good speaker brands to check out are Pioneer, Alpine and Kenwood.
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I didn't bypass the amp, so I'm using the avalons amp, just didn't want to have to take even more of the dash apart at this time. I think I read somewhere that it is 170 watts total.
Your speakers can be any wattage, it does not need to be matched with the amplifier. It just needs to be at least what the amplifier can put out, otherwise you run the risk of blowing your speakers if you're not careful with the volume.
Putting 5 watts into a 10 watt speaker is fine.
Putting 10 watts into a 10 watt speaker is fine.
Putting 15 watts into a 10 watt speaker will cause the speaker to fail.
I belive the stock 6 speaker setup on the avalon is 20 watts for each front door, 10 watts for each back door (maybe 20). RMS values.
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Your speakers can be any wattage, it does not need to be matched with the amplifier. It just needs to be at least what the amplifier can put out, otherwise you run the risk of blowing your speakers if you're not careful with the volume.
Putting 5 watts into a 10 watt speaker is fine.
Putting 10 watts into a 10 watt speaker is fine.
Putting 15 watts into a 10 watt speaker will cause the speaker to fail.
I belive the stock 6 speaker setup on the avalon is 20 watts for each front door, 10 watts for each back door (maybe 20). RMS values.
The odd thing is I had the complete opposite experience in my Corolla so I'm just speaking from experience. I went through two sets of JL Audio 4" speakers for the front doors that were rated @ 35W RMS, where my headunit's internal amp was rated for 26W RMS. The first set lasted only lasted couple of months and the next ones a little over a year. I "downgraded" to a set of cheap Kenwoods rated @ 20W RMS and they are currently running great with over 2 years in usage. Matching them to the headunit turned out to be the best option for me.
Excessive clipping and distortion are what cause speakers to blow out. That can be caused by either overpowering or underpowering speakers. Some speakers are more sensitive than others to this difference. To an extent, it depends on the quality of components as well.
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So actually I've been lookin around for the correct speaker wiring harness, and crutchfield says they dont have one. Is there one out there or am I going to want to solder the wires?
Trevor
So actually I've been lookin around for the correct speaker wiring harness, and crutchfield says they dont have one. Is there one out there or am I going to want to solder the wires?
Trevor
I've never had a problem with the speaker harness. You take the speaker out of the box, and theres your standard slide disconnect terminals going to the speaker. You'll know when you remove the speaker, which by the way you're going to need a Torx bit to do so, not sure on the size. (or just be clever with a flat head driver)
And If you're lost, if you go back to the main first generation Avalon forum, theres a bunch of stickied DIYs, several on how to remove your door panel.
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