Mother of All Suspension Questions-96 Avalon

[awicks]

Trying to get as many to chime in as possible on a 96 Avalon XL since there are so many post with strut questions so here goes...bought with 167k on it and guy i bought it from replaced just the struts and not the mounts (not sure why even though they are pretty expensive) still have a lot of clunking going on when we go over pretty much any kind of bump.
So since i have to take the struts off again to change out the mounts I'm wondering what other things I should go ahead and replace while the strut is off. Seen post about the boots and bump stops. I've seen post on control arm brushings and sway bar brushings and a host of other things...to top it all off many people have recommended the quick struts but I guess I would still benefit from changing out brushings with that too.

[Jack Deth]

i just did the struts on my 99 and reused the old mounts with no issues. the front mounts have a thrust bearing that can wear out, but mine were good at 70K. the rears don't have the bearing. the only other wear part is the heavy rubber insert between the inner and outer part of the mount. that looked pretty beefy.
if you do get new mounts, the boot and the upper spring isolator come attached. the fronts are around 70 each, the rears around 30. the lower spring isolators are another 10 each. it adds up fast.
i had sway bar endlinks go bad on my t-bird and they made a muffled rattle every time i went over even the smallest of bumps. i had a hell of a time trying to figure out where it was coming from. loose sway bar bushings will make that noise, too. you can do both, i think, without removing the strut. they are cheap enough, and if they don't get your rattle you can still replace the mounts.

[fourwheeler]

Just replaced the sway bar links all the way around and only had to remove the tire to do so. If you do take the sway bar links off, check the sway bar mount bushings, they often go bad and you can pick up polyurethane bushings for around $10 a set for either the front or rear. That may be your clunking noise and would be a lot cheaper and easier than removing the strut and automatically replacing the strut mount. I picked up some cheap sway bar links for $7 each with a year warranty.

[Jigg007]

Id imagine if you compiled a list of all the parts we've experianced problems with you would out weigh the value of the car.

I myself had to change the control arm from its bushings, both frame and balljoint. I picked up the whole assembly from NAPA for 140. I also replaced what they call the "rear control arms" but more appropriately the lateral links because of worn bushings. It kills me that just a bushing goes bad and I have to replace an entire part. I've replaced 3 out of the 4 links, close to 150 each, as they're available only from Toyota..

And I've replaced all the struts, coils, and mounts on the car (around 800 there). Sure I'm crazy spending this much money, but damn does it ride nice. KYB struts, Moog coils, and some cheap garbage for the mounts (so many regrets!)

[Chunkywolf]

The moog strut mounts for this car can be gotten off amazon for pretty cheap, not sure if you're up to replacing them after the fact though...

[pmesfun]

There are many things that might be needing replacement besides struts and mounts. Control Arm Bushings, Sway Bar Bushings, Sway Bar Links, Ball Joints, Tie Rods, etc... These all can contribute to the clunking noises notorious in Gen 1 Avalons.

So Far on my List of Needing Replacement:

• Struts, Mounts and Springs
• Front Sway Bar Bushings
• Control Arm Bushings
• Trailing Arms Possibly
• Rack and Pinion Mount( read this will solve the looseness in the steering wheel)

Basically at this point my car handles worse than a boat. I can make slight turns on the highway and the rear end will slide in opposite direction I'm turning.

[fourwheeler]

pmsfun, try replacing just the sway bar links. they are cheap, easy (only requires removing a wheel), and really quieted down my suspension.

I need to replace my struts and rear control arms as well, but waiting until I can afford the parts in the spring. Just replaced the sway bar links and it made a huge difference in the clunking noises I was hearing from the suspension, and found the links for around $20.

[pmesfun]

Hmm.. What was the condition of your links before? When I changed the sway bar bushings in the back they looked fine, rubber wasn't torn. Could there possibly be internal damage?

Also does anybody experience loose steering on their avalon? I could probably turn the steering wheel 3 degrees in both directions and still be going straight.

[fourwheeler]

my links were definately worn out. With the links removed from the sway bar, if there is any wiggle or movement on the sway bar, the sway bar mount bushings need to be replaced. If you can grab the sway bar links and move them, they are worn and need to be replaced. Good luck.

[awicks]

Hey everyone! I changed out the rear links and bushings and voila no more clunking! Got to the front changed out the links but the sway bar is huge!!!! O'Reily has bushings that looks similar but doesn't give the size if not rock auto has a 24mm which I'll order and finish up next week.

Just in case anyone searches for sway bar links and bushing replacement you must jack up both ends! Don't waste an hour like me trying to muscle it on one side without both ends jacked up!

Ok so since that was quick and easy I'm now wondering if I should look at other suspension parts and swap them out so here goes part B...any other parts i might as well replace especially since i may have to do an order from rock auto anyway?

[pmesfun]

Hmmm....so the clunking from the front could be the sway bar bushings and links. Not the lca bushings. I will check for movement and order the bushings and links from Energy Suspension.

BTW, does any body know how remove the airbag, so I can torque down the steering wheel?

[Jigg007]

Originally Posted by awicks

Hey everyone! I changed out the rear links and bushings and voila no more clunking! Got to the front changed out the links but the sway bar is huge!!!! O'Reily has bushings that looks similar but doesn't give the size if not rock auto has a 24mm which I'll order and finish up next week.

Just in case anyone searches for sway bar links and bushing replacement you must jack up both ends! Don't waste an hour like me trying to muscle it on one side without both ends jacked up!

Ok so since that was quick and easy I'm now wondering if I should look at other suspension parts and swap them out so here goes part B...any other parts i might as well replace especially since i may have to do an order from rock auto anyway?

The front sway bar is showing up as 24mm? I believe that is incorrect, when i changed my front swaybar frame bushing it was 19mm. 24 is too huge, thats almost an inch in diameter.

The sway bar bushing and link are the most easiest things to change on the car., front and back, assuming you dont live in the rust belt like me! (I only snapped two bolts in the frame of my car, both were swaybar mounts!) Otherwise I found the Tie-rod ends pretty easy to replace, but unless you count your threads you'll probably need an alignment afterwards.

[avalonian98]

i measured my front sway bar bushings with a set of calipers and from what i recall, they were 18mm....and i have a 98 avalon xls. don't take this as gospel because it was a few months ago and my memory fails me from time to time.

jigg.......above, you mentioned all the suspension work you've done yet you have so many regrets. let me ask you, if you had to do it all over, what would you do different?/? please, from your experience, what specific struts, mounts, springs....links, bushings, etc. would you purchase/install??? why?

my 98 has rattling issues (front) and the suspension seems pretty soft when performing a bounce test. even though i had the rear struts replaced just a thousand miles ago, i can tell you if a few fata**es like me got in the back seat, the struts/springs would likely bottom out over moderate bumps. no, i didn't replace the springs in the rear as the car only has 55k miles. regardless, the new rear struts did help and NOW i'm on to the front end to address the rattles...poor ride/handling. wish i knew what brand replacement struts and mounts would give the best results....without lowering. also i'm in need of s.b. bushings and end links....while i'm at it.

[Jigg007]

Originally Posted by avalonian98

i measured my front sway bar bushings with a set of calipers and from what i recall, they were 18mm....and i have a 98 avalon xls. don't take this as gospel because it was a few months ago and my memory fails me from time to time.

jigg.......above, you mentioned all the suspension work you've done yet you have so many regrets. let me ask you, if you had to do it all over, what would you do different?/? please, from your experience, what specific struts, mounts, springs....links, bushings, etc. would you purchase/install??? why?

my 98 has rattling issues (front) and the suspension seems pretty soft when performing a bounce test. even though i had the rear struts replaced just a thousand miles ago, i can tell you if a few fata**es like me got in the back seat, the struts/springs would likely bottom out over moderate bumps. no, i didn't replace the springs in the rear as the car only has 55k miles. regardless, the new rear struts did help and NOW i'm on to the front end to address the rattles...poor ride/handling. wish i knew what brand replacement struts and mounts would give the best results....without lowering. also i'm in need of s.b. bushings and end links....while i'm at it.

Heres a list I keep of my repairs. For the sake of simplicity i removed tire rotations/oil changes.

1996 Toyota Avalon XLS
VIN# 4T1Bf12B7TU06xxxx
Purchased February 2007

195K - New valve cover gasket
New Spark Plugs "Bosch Platnum"
New Spark Plug wires
New front and rear brake pads
New front and rear rotars
New battery "Optima YellowTop"

210K - New Fuel Injector, cylinder 3 "BWD"
Replace Coil pack on cylinder 3 "Toyota OEM"
Oil Change

216K - Two Fuel Injectors, cylinders 1 & 5 "BWD"
New timing belt kit "Toyota"
New Water pump "BWD"
New accessory and ps pump belt "Gatorback"
Replaced cam seals
Coolant Flush

220K - Replaced Front and Rear Struts "KYB"
Replaced Front and Rear Strut Mounts "OEM"
Replaced front and rear coil springs "Moog"
Replaced rear adjustable/turnbuckle lateral links "Toyota OEM"
"Seafoamed" Engine (Oil, Intake, Gas)
Oil Change

225K - 4 New tires "Goodyear Assurance Trippletread"
Oil Change

233K - Rotate tires
4 Wheel Alignment


243K - Clean EGR
Clean Throttle Body
Replace fuel filter "Fram"
Replace Right Control Arm and ball joint "Napa"
Replace Rear non adjustable latteral link "Toyota"
Replace rear sway bar bushings "Moog"

240K - 12/05/2010

Right now I have a CEL for a P0330, Rear bank knock circuit. Not sure if that means theres noticeable knocks by the computers standards, or the sensor is failing. (I swear, fix one thing, and another thing breaks!)

What eats me up now is that about 4 months ago I brought my Avalon into a Toyota dealership for a transmission flush. They said the fluid was still red and they wouldnt recomend changing it for another year. Cool, I thought, save my self $150 for the time being. I brought it back a couple days ago and am told that the fluid is dirty, and its "the glue holding the transmission together". They refuse to change it. It bothers me that something as simple as a dirty fluid that I cannot change will be the death of my car. (unless in whatever time it takes the tranny to fail i can find a cheap one and persuade myself and my father to change it, longshot!)

When I said "I regret" I meant the fact that I went with kyb struts and moog coils (big $$$) and cheaped out on the mounts.

"I just cant get rid of it because it needs a $100 part!" Too bad I've said something like that over two dozen times. Being attached to things suck. I love driving the car and it looks damn good while doing so.

I'm done raving like a lunatic, I swear!

[pmesfun]

Holy S**t, that is a lot of work you have done. First Bosch Spark Plugs in a Toyota,. For the transmission I would just do a drain and refill with every oil change until the fluid is clear red. Then drop the pan, clean the magnets and pan, and replace the filter if necessary. I would also look into adding a manefine filter on the return line coming from the radiator. If you are experiencing any problems with your power steering I would recommend doing the same, add a magenfine filter once you get the fluid clean and red. I would not recommend doing a flush on a transmission of this age, could start leaks, internal seals could be damaged, and clog passageways inside the transmission.

I've done two drain and refills on the transmission and siphoned and refill the ps reservoir four times so far. This spring I plan to add a filter on both the transmission and power steering return line.