95 Avalon, V6 of course, sat for a while and now seems to be leaking oil from the valve covers. The front cover looks simple enough, how hard is it to get to the rear cover? Is the overall job an easy one? I could use some advice. Thanks.
Its not bad, only annoying part is getting the wire harness that sits right on top of the rear valve cover, out of the way.
Remove the throttle body and iacv from the intake plenum then remove the intake plenum. Make sure you remember where any vacuum lines go.
Also to get the harness out of the way, remove the two bolts on the driver's side of the engine. One on the Bank 1 block and the other on the thermostat housing.
do the spark plug tube seals in valve covers, spark plugs, spark plug wires, clean valve covers while they're off and tag all wires and vacuum lines, does,nt hurt to take some pictures for reference too . replace pcv valve in rear cover also . good luck
The Following User Says Thank You to WetOne For This Useful Post:
Thanks everybody. I do have most of it taken apart, still wrestling with the thick wireset that's atop the rear cover. Having trouble disconnecting from the passenger side. It's a plastic box and I wasn't able to find how it was attached. Go at it again tomorrow. Thanks.
Last edited by Timid Soul; 03-17-2011 at 05:59 PM.
Thanks everybody. I do have most of it taken apart, still wrestling with the thick wireset that's atop the rear cover. Having trouble disconnecting from the passenger side. It's a plastic box and I wasn't able to find how it was attached. Go at it again tomorrow. Thanks.
Yeah, its a real pain.
On the passenger side, disconnect all the clips that are on the timing belt cover. That will give you a lot of room to pull up and zip tie it against the plenum anchors. Same for the driver's side remove those two nuts and pull the harness out and up from the bolts.
This picture I took should give you and idea on what to do:
I used a wire the first time, but zip ties are 10 times better.
Doing pretty well, got everything prepared except I don't know about sealer and the rubber (RTV) gaskets (Felpro) that I bought. Should I or could I use sealer on the gaskets? If so, where and how much? The ones on here leaked bad but still looked great, I guess they hardened a bit. Would the sealer prevent this? Thanks
Sorry ending to this story. Thanks for all the help. You made it seem reasonably easy. Got it all done and the car will not start. The starter clicks like a dead battery but the battery is completely charged. Hooked it up to a jumper just in case and the car would turn over, but wouldn't start. I've been over everything in my head and everything I can see and I don't know what I could have done wrong. I hooked up nothing that I wasn't reasonable sure that it was correct. No left over connections, no hoses off. I'm gonna take the night off and see what tomorrow brings. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Later, TS
Can't think of a thing left unplugged, can't see any. I'll get back out there tomorrow, it's dark, no garage, and check the fuses.
Thanks again, I'll let you know.
Great ending after all. Car would not start even with a jump. Took the battery to Auto Zone, said it was bad bought a new one (Wow, the prices have gone up! $100 Bucks!). Anyway, the new battery installed, started right up, no problems. Of course there is still some oil to burn off of block, but I can't find a leak, the car runs great and this Forum deserves a lot of Thanks from me. To all of you, I'm an old guy who was afraid of this job. You help was the most important part of my success. Don't want to get too corny, but really. Thanks guys, you Rock. Larry
the factory gaskets are neoprine. (synthetic rubber) put 1 SMALL can of brake fluid into the oil, 2-3 days before you change it. drive the car some. the brake fluid will swell the neoprine (that's what it does in the brake system, and that's why it's used). the result may well be not having to do this, at all. you will clean your engine as well, and these engines are famous for forming grease in their crankcases...
Great ending after all. Car would not start even with a jump. Took the battery to Auto Zone, said it was bad bought a new one (Wow, the prices have gone up! $100 Bucks!). Anyway, the new battery installed, started right up, no problems. Of course there is still some oil to burn off of block, but I can't find a leak, the car runs great and this Forum deserves a lot of Thanks from me. To all of you, I'm an old guy who was afraid of this job. You help was the most important part of my success. Don't want to get too corny, but really. Thanks guys, you Rock. Larry
good to hear
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob2
to anyone considering doing this:
the factory gaskets are neoprine. (synthetic rubber) put 1 SMALL can of brake fluid into the oil, 2-3 days before you change it. drive the car some. the brake fluid will swell the neoprine (that's what it does in the brake system, and that's why it's used). the result may well be not having to do this, at all. you will clean your engine as well, and these engines are famous for forming grease in their crankcases...
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1999 Toyota Avalon
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