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1st Generation (1995-1999) Specific discussion of the first generation Toyota Avalon

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Old 04-30-2011, 11:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Which Oxygen Sensor?

(1995 Avalon)Code PO135 Bank 1, Sensor 1. Searching these forums I get different locations depending on the thread. Some say Bank 1 is the "Front" bank, in the front of the engine, which would be right there in front of me, easy to get to. Others say that it's on the back of the engine near the firewall. Sensor 2? Anyone know for sure?
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I'd appreciate the help, thanks.
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Bank 1 is the firewall side, Sensor 1 is after the exhaust manifold, above the steering rack.
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Which Oxygen Sensor?

Thanks. How many sensors are on the car? Also, a bit off subject, I just redid the valve cover gaskets and wonder if the oil leak that was there could have fouled the sensor. What do you think? Is a sensor repairable? Again, thanks for the answer.

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Old 04-30-2011, 06:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Timid Soul View Post
Thanks. How many sensors are on the car? Also, a bit off subject, I just redid the valve cover gaskets and wonder if the oil leak that was there could have fouled the sensor. What do you think? Is a sensor repairable? Again, thanks for the answer.
doubt that it fouled the sensor but it could have fouled the plug. this is not as hard as it looks. unplug it. use contact cleaner to clean it. use sillyclone grease to coat it. plug it back in. disconnect the battery. hold your foot on the brake for one minute to reset the computer. reconnect the battery...
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If you used the wrong sealant on the VC gasket it could have killed the sensor. Must use product specifically labeled as "sensor safe", or Toyota spec'd p/n.

Unless seized, that sensor can be changed in 30 min or so. See my post from about 2 weeks ago for steps I used.
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:43 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Where's your post on the sensor? Looks like it's gonna be hard to get to when I eyeball it. Thanks.
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TedL View Post
If you used the wrong sealant on the VC gasket it could have killed the sensor. Must use product specifically labeled as "sensor safe", or Toyota spec'd p/n.

Unless seized, that sensor can be changed in 30 min or so. See my post from about 2 weeks ago for steps I used.
interesting... how might gasket goop effect a sensor, encased in a cast iron pipe? are the vc gaskets not rubber? we don't use gasket goop on rubber gaskets... do we?

it's been quite a while since i turned wrenches... people are always changing things - it seems to make them feel important?
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Old 05-02-2011, 01:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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we don't use gasket goop on rubber gaskets... do we?
Mostly no. But there's a few spots where it's supposed to get a dab of silicone sealant, like the "half moon" plugs. Maybe a couple other spots I forget.
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Old 05-02-2011, 04:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Goop on the Gasket?

I did put some "goop" on the gaskets, very little, but I didn't take the guy seriously when he mentioned it. He certainly didn't know what I put on the car. No big deal. My concern was that possibly the oil leak had messed with or destroyed the sensor. Thanks y'all, I'll be checking it out.
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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interesting... how might gasket goop effect a sensor, encased in a cast iron pipe? are the vc gaskets not rubber? we don't use gasket goop on rubber gaskets... do we?
RTV is frequently used with gaskets in the "corners" where there's a sharp change in direction for a better seal.

As for how the vapors from sealant on the VC gasket get to the O2S or AFR sensor, there's this thing called the PCV system, introduced in the 1960's.
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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ok... valves do have overlap... learned something today
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Old 05-07-2011, 09:59 AM   #12 (permalink)
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ok... valves do have overlap... learned something today
I've been trying to figure what this meant for days. I think you're attributing something to valve overlap (both intake and exhaust being open at the same time).

It's much simpler than that. The "air" between the valve cover (VC) and head gets moved into the intake charge through the PCV system. The intake charge burns and becomes the exhaust, which gets pushed out through the exhaust system, passing the AFR and O2 sensors on the way. Very simple, very direct, not passing through steel walls.

And if you use sealant on a VC gasket, the vapors from the sealant can become part of the "air" inside the VC.
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Old 05-07-2011, 12:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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maybe - but i doubt it. i don't think whatever it is in the gases from the drying silicone can survive the compression and the fire.

i think, instead, that the valves in overlap allow the raw stuff to pass through the cylinders, into the exhaust. the pcv valve opens when there is no vacuum...
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