Crank, Hard to Start Avalon 1997 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

smata67 · 05-20-2011, 10:01 AM

I turn the key and it doesn't start, feels like its trying but too weak. One or two more times and it starts, just barely. Started happening about a week ago. The battery is 4 1/2 years old and is a 5 year battery. Measures okay at 12.8V. Is it possible that the battery measures good, but can't produce the cranking amps or is it definitely the starter? Can someone recommend an ebay seller for the starter rebuild kit anyway?

pmesfun · 05-20-2011, 10:18 AM

Any check engine codes? Did you try jumping the car?

smata67 · 05-20-2011, 10:26 AM

By the way, it does not do multiple clicks, just seems really weak starting. Will I need a checker for the codes, or is there a key method?

I'm going to have to pull the starter out anyway, so is there anything I can inspect/measure to determine what the problem is?

***BMR*** · 05-20-2011, 03:01 PM

Sometimes a battery's voltage can measure OK when it's not delivering current, but plummet when it is. The starter can draw 100 amps or more. Take it to an auto parts store and have them hook up their tester. It'll diagnose whether it's the starter or the battery. My money's on the battery.

DoctorZephyr · 05-20-2011, 03:18 PM

I'm having the same problem starting my rav4. Me and my dad did everything with the battery and it still didn't want to start til the fourth or fifth try. It makes one click sound when I try to turn it over and the sound is coming from the starter area.

smata67 · 05-20-2011, 04:06 PM

Took it to Advance Auto on Richmond Highway, Alexandria, VA, the friendly staff there hooked up the battery/starter/alternator tester. The battery, a 600 CCA Energizer 60 month (now 3 1/2 years old) is cranking at 514. The Autozone tester gave a "near end of life" result. I still have the receipt for the thing, but I will probably not be getting another one of these. So, a battery can read properly (Fluke was giving me 12.8V in the morning), yet not have the cranking amps. I will probably be changing the battery within a few days.

CTB727 · 05-20-2011, 05:56 PM

Same exact symptoms I experienced when I accidentally ran my battery down last summer. It tried to crank, but it was very weak and just wouldn't start the car. Typical low battery symptoms.

smata67 · 05-20-2011, 07:13 PM

What if there is something drawing down the battery when its parked, is there anyway to test for this? I do have an ammeter function on the fluke 77, but it would have to be put in-line, which could be tricky.

CTB727 · 05-20-2011, 07:48 PM

Well you said the battery is 4 and a half years old. It was probably bound to happen. I see you're from Alexandria, VA. Funny.. I have a cousin that lived there for a few months and visited last summer. Anyways, doesn't it get really cold up there during the winter time? I would think that winter season would put extra strain on the battery, but that's just my guess.

smata67 · 05-20-2011, 08:30 PM

The battery is 3 1/2 years old, the initial post with 4 1/2 was a mistake. I have the receipt, so the 3 1/2 is good. The irony is that the car started much better a few months ago when it was 30 F. It is now in the 60s and 70s and is starting a bit trickier, though I admit it is usually remotely started when it was cold and I wasn't paying much attention....The advanced auto guy was pretty sharp, the added load from air conditioning (yes, air-conditioning when its in the 70s, that's what happens when you live in a cold climate) could be a factor. I was also thinking the change to summer gas, which is most likely less volatile could be making starting a bit more difficult. The test equipment says the battery is dragging a bit and this probably so, but I do know these Japanese cars can sometimes have hard to troubleshoot electrical problems, there could be a drain somewhere that bleeds the battery off overnight.

bob2 · 05-20-2011, 10:28 PM

put the volt meter across the battery. then have someone crank the car. voltage should remain above 10...

likely your starter needs a plunger. classic symptom on these cars - clicking and need to hit the key several times before it starts BUT it doesn't have to do that. it can just be burnt up, and fail to pass enough juice to the starter motor.

CTB727 · 05-23-2011, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smata67

The battery is 3 1/2 years old, the initial post with 4 1/2 was a mistake. I have the receipt, so the 3 1/2 is good. The irony is that the car started much better a few months ago when it was 30 F. It is now in the 60s and 70s and is starting a bit trickier, though I admit it is usually remotely started when it was cold and I wasn't paying much attention....The advanced auto guy was pretty sharp, the added load from air conditioning (yes, air-conditioning when its in the 70s, that's what happens when you live in a cold climate) could be a factor. I was also thinking the change to summer gas, which is most likely less volatile could be making starting a bit more difficult. The test equipment says the battery is dragging a bit and this probably so, but I do know these Japanese cars can sometimes have hard to troubleshoot electrical problems, there could be a drain somewhere that bleeds the battery off overnight.

Do you leave your AC on when you shut the car off? So when you start the car, the AC turns on automatically? If so, then that is definitely a big factor. ALWAYS turn it off before you shut the car off. It's just an OCD of mine. Sometimes when my dad drives my car and he leaves the AC on, then when I start it next, I notice the car doesn't start as "healthily" as it should. It makes a big difference. It is an unnecessary load that your car shouldn't have at startup.