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I know you said you've done timing belts before but I'm just going to do a run down on it from the start for others that don't know. Skip to any desired section you need and note that when installing the new belt you go counterclockwise.
*for safety disconnect the neg. battery cable. Now time to get some move around space by removing anything in the way, and get some work space for your hands, like (*if applicable*) the coolant overflow tank, windshield washer tank, cruise control actuator and vacuum pump, and fender apron (after you jack the car up and take the tire off).
*Now to get to the timing belt you MUST remove the other belts! So you might as well get ALL your belts replaced.
*With the front of the car on jacks, and taking safety into mind when you do this, the wheel and fender apron can now come off and remove the power steering reservoir WITHOUT disconnecting the hoses and put it aside.
*Now the fun parts. use another jack to support the engine from below and remove the right engine mount, braces, bracket and engine movement control rod. Oh please do NOT put the jack under the oil drain pan plug and try to use a wood block between the jack and engine.
*Remove the spark plugs and the upper timing belt cover and gasket. Now you can position the number one cylinder at TDC. Marking the timing belt/camshaft pulley helps make more proper alignments. Now remover the timing belt tensioner but also be sure to take out the boot to as it might stick in the tensioners recess.
*Now we can relieve the tension between the rear and front camshaft sprockets by turning the rear sprocket slightly clockwise (for all you 3VZ-FE engine people,put marks on your stuff as you have no internal alignment marks to go by).
*Now you can take off the timing belt from the sprockets. Also, at this point you can now mess with the sprockets as well. See if they are worn out and replace if needed. To remove the sprocket, remove the cylinder head covers and hold the camshaft with a wrench on the CAST-IN HEX while loosening the sprocket bolt. [ This section is more for you Bigred21 to hold your sprockets in place ]
*Now remove the upper idler pulley, take off the crankshaft pulley bolt. To keep the engine from turning wedge a screwdriver into the flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth or against a converter bolt. Once loosened the TDC position of the crankshaft can be messed with and align it as necessary.
*the crankshaft pulley can now come off to be inspected. Use a little "elbow grease" on this one as it needs a bit of pressure to come off. Take the lower timing belt cover off and slip the timing belt guide off the crankshaft. Now you can remove the #1 idler pulley and plate washer to be inspected.
* Reverse this process to install all parts/belts.
*NOTE: You don't really need to take off the sprockets but with cars as old as ours, its probably time to start inspecting them if they never been replaced, etc. Also for you 1MZ-FE engine people, be careful not to damage the crankshaft sensor portion of the sprocket removal process!
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