Control arms check?? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

adu1982 · 07-06-2011, 02:38 PM

Ok os the problem is this, I went and got new tires , about hmm maybe 3-4 months ago. When asking for alignment guy said, he would do it but I need to replace control arm because otherwise alignment would be off as soon as I drove a bit?

Now keep in mine a mechanic, friend, replaced control arms both, and drive shaft, about 1 year ago..

True if going over bumps at more then 30-40 mile mph the car will actually hit the pavement (i know my suspension has been gone for a while, so new struts are i guess definitively needed)...

All the other bushings seemed ok, but I will do more checking this weekend, as since the tires are wearing out thw wrong away I do need to fix this and align it.

My question first is, what should be ok, or how can i tell what is not, for them to do the alignment.

I do not want to be told, you need new control arms, when they are just a year old, and the bushings on them seem fine, and they do not look bent or anything.....

And do struts (i think the cause for my up and down wwoble) affect the alignment (i know this is a dumb newbie question).....

bob2 · 07-06-2011, 07:12 PM

struts effect ride height and ride height certainly does effect alignment.

gabriel makes "safety struts" that are ready to install. they aint cheap, but are less than the associated parts....

fourwheeler · 07-07-2011, 11:49 AM

I second the quick strut idea. I just installed 4 Monroe quick struts I got off of Amazon for around $135 each. They installed without any issues.

I might take your car to a different mechanic to evaluate the control arm issue. Perhaps the parts are bad from the install a year ago already (due to damage) or the parts were defective. Have this mechanic show you why the parts would need replacing.

I would replace the suspension parts if you can before you get the tires and then have the alignment done with the new tires installed. You can have the parts installed in stages but it will affect tire wear and you won't get the maximum life out of your tires.

adu1982 · 07-07-2011, 12:13 PM

yup, i think these tire set is compromised so...

I will soon change the bushing on the once control arm they said is bad, as on closer inspection it is bad, and the arm itself has not been replaced a year ago, but only one as i can se the difference in them. One says something with Chine on it, the one with the good bushings.

So I will replace those first.

Question, if the arm looks ok, not bent , damaged or scratched, is replacing just the bushings ok? is it really hard to do ( i just did my Concorde inner tie rod bushings so... I am a bit mechanical inclined I guess).

After that I'll save up a bit and do the 4 struts, probably the kits you guys mentioned as it seems easier, and even with getting all parts they are not much more than struts+mounting gear + ..... renting spring tool etc...

bob2 · 07-07-2011, 07:51 PM

i just bought 2 x new lower a-arms, moog ball joints and wheel bearings with spindles from rock auto. cost was around $350. installation was a breeze, provided you have an air or electric socket gun. the wheel bearings will need to go to a machine shop to be pressed in, of course. that cost me $20. had this done in a day.

fourwheeler · 07-08-2011, 09:24 AM

Plus with the quick struts you get new springs, upper and lower rubber spring isolators, new bump stops, and rubber rod shields without the hassle of compressing the spring and just replacing the strut. Cost was over half of replacing these parts individually. Good luck.

Sorry I can't help you with the control arm parts. Haven't had to do those yet.

***BMR*** · 07-08-2011, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adu1982

Question, if the arm looks ok, not bent , damaged or scratched, is replacing just the bushings ok? is it really hard to do ( i just did my Concorde inner tie rod bushings so... I am a bit mechanical inclined I guess).

I replaced LCA bushings on my Camry a few months ago. First off, if you don't have access to a hydraulic press, forget about it. I asked around, and no automotive machine shop in my area would touch it.

Getting the rear bushing out and pressing the new one in was pretty straightforward. Req'd finding a piece of pipe about the right diameter and machining the outer diameter down to make it a proper pressing tool. A local welding shop was happy to sell me 2" of pipe for 5 bucks.

The front bushing?... getting it out was a royal pain. We couldn't figure out a way to set it up on the press to push it out. Hard to explain why, in words. Just couldn't get it set up so the press was pushing in-line with the bushing. Ended up hooking a chain to each end and yanking it out using his SUV and my F150 as pulling tools. Left a foot or two of slack in the chain, and let the F150 roll down the driveway to give it a bounce-tug. Took about 6 healthy whacks to pop it out. Getting the new one back in was cake, using the press. Had to put a little lithium grease on the rubber to get it to slide thru & in.

Would I do it again, now that I know what it takes? I don't think I would.

HTH,
BMR

adu1982 · 07-27-2011, 09:23 AM

BMR, i guess I can see why the driver control arm, my mechanic friend fixed, was replaced entirely. Thanks for the warning, I will just buy the whole thing, a bit more expensive but at least it will be just an easy off and on issue. I was going to ask, how do I replace the bushings since I figured, they are pressed in, since no bolts hold them.

So this weekend (i have been very busy since my last post) I will change that control arm and whatever else, and then as soon as possible go for quick struts and alignment in a couple months, by then new set of tires might be needed so.... hopefully my avy will keep on running like it has without any other issues. Even though first I should go for head gasket at it seal is bad and is leaking some bits of oil.