97 avalon shut down on highway - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

turkeyt49 · 07-23-2011, 09:54 PM

I was cruising along at 65mph and my motor just quit and there were no clunks bangs or nothing. It was just like someone turned off the ignition. I tried to start the car and it would turn over fine but would not attempt to start. I got it home and turned the pulleys and the timing belt is turning everything and the pistons are going up and down in the cylinders. I removed #1 plug and cranked the motor and there is no spark at the plug. I am wondering if this may be an electical problem such as an ECM. Anyone have any comment or other test that i could do? Car has 160,000 and belt has 50,000 on it. Thanks folks

pmesfun · 07-24-2011, 02:58 AM

Did you check for fuel? Seems like the fuel pump went bad. Check all wiring and fuses too.

turkeyt49 · 07-24-2011, 08:10 AM

Thanks for your reply. I checked the fuses and i will check the fuel today. I should have spark at the plugs if everything electrical is fine. What do you think about an ECM failure. Can you hook up the scanner to get any input if it is faulty or would any codes show up?? Thanks

turkeyt49 · 07-24-2011, 10:44 AM

I loosened the bolt at the end of the metal fuel rail and cranked the motor over and there was no fuel pressure at the rail. Is that the easiest way to check for pressure?? Thanks a bunch

Tech1984 · 07-24-2011, 11:12 AM

If the crank sensor loses signal, then it shuts down EFI. You can pull it out and do a visual in there to see if possibly the timing belt is shredding around the reluctor, or missing teeth on the reluctor. I'd OHM out the crank sensor also. If it's in mega ohms, it's dead.
Another thing to look at is the coil packs to see if their connectors are 100% connected and no broken tabs.

turkeyt49 · 07-24-2011, 12:32 PM

This sounds like it could be a couple of problems but it is prob. just one. Here is what i did. I turned the ignition on and checked for voltage at the fuel pump plug. I used a light probe and did not get any current at any of the wires. I checked for fuel pressure at the fuel rail and got none. I checked the belt and everything looks ok and it is turning the crank and cams and the pistons are going up and down in the cylinder. The car was running smooth and i had not noticed any misfiring or sluggish throttle response. I was on the interstate and it just quit at 65mph. and made no noise when it stopped. I was wondering about the ECU and if it was not sending any response to the fuel pump or plugs. Would a code scanner help or would it just show codes?? Thanks

Tech1984 · 07-24-2011, 12:46 PM

Yes, the scanner can be great help if you captured a pending or current code and were able to view freeze frame data.
You may find a code like p1300 ignitor circuit malfunction. or something like that. ECM's 99.9% of the time won't let you down like this.
Let me know if your 'check engine' light comes on with key on. If it doesn't, then start checking all fuses, especially the EFI fuse under the hood. This is the main ECM protection fuse.

turkeyt49 · 07-24-2011, 06:06 PM

My check engine light does not come on when i turn the key on. One thing i did notice and i do not remember before is the replace bulb light comes on in the indicater cluster when i crank the engine. There are no bulbs burnt out. With the key on should there be current going to the fuel pump? I could not get any. When i remove a spark plug and leave it in the plug wire boot and crank the motor should i get fire at the plug? I have used this method for 40 years to determine spark to the cylinders. Does this still apply with todays cars? How do you determine if the EFI fuse is bad other than replace it since it is a box type fuse? I know these cars are hard to troubleshoot but i already paid a tow bill once and i was still 150 miles from home. I dollied it home with hopes that i can find the culprit to my problem. I'm still reeling from breaking down on the turnpike with my wife and grandkids in 95 degees and waiting 2 hours for the wrecker. That sure makes you appreceiate our vets serving in the heat overseas. We are proud of them!! Thanks guys

Tech1984 · 07-24-2011, 06:16 PM

OK GOOD!!!! This narrows it down quickly. Without a CEL, you have no computer B+. I repeat, no computer, EFI, or engine diagnosics. It is dead in the water.
The efi fuse in the fuse and relay block under the hood is a SPADE type fuse. 15Amp next to efi relay.
Please check it now before we go any further. There is spare fuses in there also. Just look under the cover for location.
A short has happened and we need to find out WHY?? Never mind talking tail light illumination. This all pertains to CEL. we need to get that lit up again.
Sorry for being short. Too many go astray trying to diagnose, and it only beats yourself up.

PS. also check fuse AM2 30A

CTB727 · 07-24-2011, 07:26 PM

The EXACT same thing happened to me about 3 months ago. There is definitely a short somewhere. In my case, a wire, (not sure which one) got pinched against the firewall, and over time it rubbed off the insulation and eventually shorted out against the firewall. It kept blowing fuses over and over again. It took my mechanic two days to finally find the problem, and he said he had never seen anything like this happen.

Carefully inspect ALL the wiring in an around the engine bay, especially near the ECM. Hope you find the problem.

turkeyt49 · 07-24-2011, 08:47 PM

Tech1984, Bingo, The 15amp EFI fuse was blown and the AM2 fuse is Ok. I put one of the 15 amp spares in and i turned the key and the car started. I turned it back off and wonder now what caused the fuse to blow. I was in some terrible rain storms before the car stopped and on bumpy interstate when it went dead?? You need to change your name to Yota Genious!!

pmesfun · 07-24-2011, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turkeyt49

Tech1984, Bingo, The 15amp EFI fuse was blown and the AM2 fuse is Ok. I put one of the 15 amp spares in and i turned the key and the car started. I turned it back off and wonder now what caused the fuse to blow. I was in some terrible rain storms before the car stopped and on bumpy interstate when it went dead?? You need to change your name to Yota Genious!!

I agree, he helped me bring my avalon out of a coma a couple of months ago, been running great ever since.

Glad your avy is back on the road.

Tech1984 · 07-24-2011, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turkeyt49

Tech1984, Bingo, The 15amp EFI fuse was blown and the AM2 fuse is Ok. I put one of the 15 amp spares in and i turned the key and the car started. I turned it back off and wonder now what caused the fuse to blow. I was in some terrible rain storms before the car stopped and on bumpy interstate when it went dead?? You need to change your name to Yota Genious!!

Great! We'll go over some possibilities tomorrow.
Thanks for the kind words, fellas.

Tech1984 · 07-25-2011, 05:44 PM

My thinking on this thinks the fuel pump, or wiring to the pump in the tank. (all under the back seat)
...or possibly an 02 sensor wire burnt on one of the exhaust manifolds (especially the firewall side back there)
The bouncy interstate ride could've contributed to this, or the last one to work on it. Service history?
Gather up some spare fuses and go take a bouncy ride to try and duplicate your problem.

turkeyt49 · 07-25-2011, 08:06 PM

Thanks so much for all your help. I would have never found the bad fuse and the shop would probably put 2 or 3 parts on and still not had it running. I had the rear O2 sensor out when i replaced the exhaust and it was starting to seperate where the metal is crimped. It was still working and not coding. I am going to check it because the wires could haved rubbed bare and caused a problem. I hate working on these com. coded vehicles. Sure not like the Toyota trucks in the 80's. I could work on them in the dark. Huh, I'll keep you posted.