I recently bought a 96 avalon with 98k on it. When I first got the car it was running fine. After about 50 miles the check engine light(02 heater circuit and egr valve) came on, followed by the oil light a few seconds later, then the engine shut off. It started up fine and I drove it home. After doing a little research here I wanted to do an Auto RX oil change. However I didn't realize you had to mail order it and couldn't get it locally. So instead I substituted Marvel Mystery for Auto-Rx when I couldn't find any locally. However I stayed with castrol 10-30w as suggested by auto-rx. I also used a fram filter(stupid in retrospect). The oil light went away for 20-30 miles and then started flickering back on at stops, then constantly coming on under 1000rpm. Last night it stayed on under 3000rpm on my 13min ride home.
I am now wondering what should be my next course of action. I lack the directions, money for a new gasket and a torque wrench, to properly remove the valve covers. The oil has not been leaking and is a the top of the range on the dip stick. I am thinking that replacing the filter would be a good and cost efficient place to start. But is there an easy way to diagnose a possible pcv or oil pump problem?
What do you think is happening and would you recommend?
These engines were known for sludge problems if improperly maintained. I would worry you have some sludge possibly plugging your oil pickup screen. The proper way to diagnose this would be to pull your valve covers and drop the oil pan.
Last year about this time there was a lengthy thread regarding possible solutions for this very problem as another member had similar issues.
Without jumping to conclusions, I would pull a valve cover to see how things look, and try performing another oil change.
I'll also try to post the link to the thread I mentioned if I get a chance.
The Following User Says Thank You to fourwheeler For This Useful Post:
before you get in too deep, maybe change the oil pressure switch first (cheap & easy, on most cars, anyway).
i fear, though, that fourwheeler is probably right.
The Following User Says Thank You to Jack Deth For This Useful Post:
I found a Toyota mechanic who would come to my house and take off the valve covers and give me an assessment for $60. I would do it myself but it seems like a delicate job, that if I screwed up torquing the bolts or putting the gasket back on could cost me a lot more. I also plan on having him test the oil pump which would require a gauge I don't have. I also was going to get his opinion on fixing my ac. Do you think this is a fair price?
He also seems to think if it has a significant amount of sludge replacing the motor would be the way to go.
I'm guessing he's going to remove only the front valve cover?... the easy one? Yeah, $60 seems fair. It would take hours to remove the rear cover. Not really necessary, IMHO. If it's sludged, it'll be bad in the front bank as well as the back.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
The Following User Says Thank You to BMR For This Useful Post:
what about seafoam or similar product (bg 44 or something like that) to try to melt some of the sludge? if you're looking at trashing the engine, you've got nothing to lose.
The Following User Says Thank You to denverdog For This Useful Post:
denverdog, seafoam might work. check out the link I provided, there were several possible cocktails which may also work.
Bobby, I don't want everyone jumping to conclusions and trashing your engine without confirming it is sludged. Let us know what the mechanic finds. I'm still hoping it is something cheap and easy.
The Following User Says Thank You to fourwheeler For This Useful Post:
denverdog, seafoam might work. check out the link I provided, there were several possible cocktails which may also work.
Bobby, I don't want everyone jumping to conclusions and trashing your engine without confirming it is sludged. Let us know what the mechanic finds. I'm still hoping it is something cheap and easy.
Its not looking good. I am unsure whether or not to try to cut my losses now or spend $2000+ on a rebuild/motor swap. I will try to post a picture of the valve cover asap. I am really bummed to say the least....
i recall having seen worse pictures posted here. why replace an engine that is still running? the cost will be the same if you wait till it dies before you replace it. in the meantime, try the seafoam, marvel, what-have-you. as denverdog said, you have nothing to lose.
meanwhile, is the screen clogged on the oil pump and the pressure is low, or is the pressure switch plugged and not working. you say the mechanic has an oil pressure gauge, that'll be interesting.
The Following User Says Thank You to Jack Deth For This Useful Post:
If it was mine?.... and it would be no big problem if I got stranded?... I wouldn't replace the engine right away. Drop the oil pan and change out the strainer (filter). See if that fixes the oil light coming on at low RPM. Start changing the oil every 3k miles. Drive it 'til it drops. If the rest of it is in good shape, consider putting a used engine in it at that time.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
The Following User Says Thank You to BMR For This Useful Post:
Search the thread "has anyone seafoamed their 4.0 yet" on the 2nd gen Tacoma forum I'm the last post with a good picture of what seafoam can do on our 3.0s. I would check/clean the pickup screen first and then use the seafoam with cheap oil and hi capacity filter (purolator pl10241) to hold more contaminant. Watch oil light and change the oil/filter multiple times till the oil stays clean. It will look like chocolate pudding (not kidding). At this point you have nothing to lose and you might correct that mess. Good luck
The Following User Says Thank You to WetOne For This Useful Post:
Since it seems that a replacement motor is cheaper than a rebuild I guess I don't have much to lose. I am going to drop the oil pan and then clean the screen out. How much Sea Foam should I use and where? When to change the oil later and what type/weight would be best? What has worked good for you guys....
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