Repeat shaking problem in steering wheel when applying brakes - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

redracer95 · 08-14-2011, 03:41 PM

Hi all,

1999 XLS model. Never had any brake problems.

I decided to put pads on myself, didn't turn rotors. I know, stupid. But I had gotten away with it in the past on my Honda and on this car twice.

Within a few weeks, started getting a crazy, incremental shaking in the steering wheel on interstate at higher speeds. Steering wheel would start shaking a little, like a bad balance, then it would get worse and worse and worse and soon the whole front of the car was shaking violently, apply the brakes to pull over to the breakdown lane and the steering went crazy(er) like a badly warped rotor.

Stop the car, then pull out again and drives fine. Did it on and off a few more times. Figured the rotors were shot and the new pads didn't help the situation at all, so I knew I needed rotors and pads....... Took it and had the front rotors and pads replaced. No problems. That was in May 2012.

FORWARD IN TIME TO PRESENT DAY -----

Drove the car yesterday and the same thing started happening. Slight shake in front end/steering wheel. Could almost hear a cyclic rubbing thudding bumping kind of noise in the front as the shake got worse. Finally, after about 5 miles the shaking was so bad I had to slow the car and get off the road. Applied brakes, steering wheel shook like a seizure victim. Stopped the car with no problem as far as actual braking. Once stopped I drove off again and headed back on the interstate. Slight shaking, but it never got worse and it didn't repeat the previous symptoms. But I got off the interstate anyway.

On the return trip home, I got back on the interstate just to see, and it didn't do it. Drove it all day and nothing happened on the highway. So, just like the first time when I replaced the pads, it's never consistent. Does it sometimes or doesn't at all.

The only thing I am noticing otherwise right now is that it seems like I am having to push the pedal harder (more muscle needed) to stop the car. Like the pads are worn out.

Did they put cheap-crap pads on my car in May with the new rotors and they're worn down and now the rotors are acting wonky again?

I don't think it's a suspension part because it doesn't do it consistently.

It's like the pads get out of round or stuck against the rotor or something.

And I do know they really did replace the rotors because I made them give me my old rotors and pads back, after they did the work. (keep an honest mech honest, ya know)

So, any ideas? It's got to be the braking components. But why again and why so soon?

THANK YOU FOR YOUR ADVICE IN ADVANCE.

Midas Muffler / Brakes did the work, sorry, but I had to go where I could afford. I know, probably a bad idea -- but beggars can't be choosers in today's economy.

TedL · 08-14-2011, 05:41 PM

Intermittent problem. Perhaps pads hanging up due to damage to bracket, hardware or caliper. Was brake overheated when you stopped on interstate?

redracer95 · 08-14-2011, 05:56 PM

No, nothing seems to be hanging up, nothing overheating.

Definitely has to do with higher speeds for sure. My work and home and daily living don't really require any interstate driving -- and I have experienced ZERO problems with it on surface streets and regular traffic-light type divided highways. Other than noticing in the past few days it's taking a little more to stop the car as far as force needed while pushing the brake pedal to stop the car.

BonzoGonzo · 08-14-2011, 09:46 PM

the pads are sticking in the cast iron mount.

remove pads. remove mount. remove rotors. have rotors turned. this is a great time to paint the mounts and calipers, making the brakes look good. ah, but then you'll need ceramic pads, to quash all that brake dust...

assemble pads in mounts. push them all the way through. you will find a pad or pads that resist. use a big file to remove metal from the outside edge of the "ear" on the pad(s) that do not want to go all the way through the mounts with minimal resistance. it should be just barely snug in the clips ('cause it gets hot, and expands). de-burr the pad where you filed it (remove sharp edges and corners).

if you have a cast iron mount that is really binding on the pads, get another one from a junkyard. get it from the same side of the car...

on re-assembly, grease he77 out of the alignment pins in the cast iron mounts. after installing the rotors, assemble the calipers to the mounts with no pads in the brakes. be certain the calipers move freely, back and forth in the cast iron mounts on the alignment pins.

redracer95 · 08-15-2011, 08:57 AM

Are you saying that it is the mount that has the problem? Or the pads?

In either case, why would the problem have gone away after the rotors had been replaced and new pads put on? Is it because the pads stay placed while they still have their "new" thickness, and then as they wear they begin to stick or "hang up"?

Thanks for those suggestions. I am going to print them out and take them with me when I go back to Midas for the work, as they ARE going to make it right, since it is still under warranty.

fourwheeler · 08-15-2011, 10:34 AM

check to make sure a caliper isn't also hanging up causing the pad to overhead and cause the shaking. So far you haven't indicated any work was done to the calipers and now the problem is back. Just replaced them on my car (semi-loaded) for around 60 each.

BonzoGonzo · 08-15-2011, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redracer95

Are you saying that it is the mount that has the problem? Or the pads?

In either case, why would the problem have gone away after the rotors had been replaced and new pads put on? Is it because the pads stay placed while they still have their "new" thickness, and then as they wear they begin to stick or "hang up"?

Thanks for those suggestions. I am going to print them out and take them with me when I go back to Midas for the work, as they ARE going to make it right, since it is still under warranty.

wellll.... it could be a sloppily made pad, or it could be a warped cast iron mount. i just went through this schmidt with my car...

it seems the pads only heat up enough to hang when they're driven at highway speeds... anyhow, doing that fixed my car and i'll wager it will fix yours, too.

turbofrank@verizon · 08-16-2011, 07:48 PM

Read some of my old threads on this issue
Use the right pin lube ( Sil-Glyde ) from Napa
Both pins are different
good luck

chuckoff · 08-22-2011, 09:40 AM

My guess is that there are multiple issues. Caliper pins, or pistons sticking, parts were replaced by cheap junk parts. Get some OE pads, Brembo rotors installed by a good shop and don't look back.

Notmycar · 10-17-2011, 06:56 PM

We have replaced rotors several times (more than 5 times) on our 1995 toyota avalon. They overheat with only moderate braking and warp. The vibration when braking after they warp gets progressivly worse. don't have a permanent fix other than to replace the rotors.

BonzoGonzo · 10-17-2011, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Notmycar

We have replaced rotors several times (more than 5 times) on our 1995 toyota avalon. They overheat with only moderate braking and warp. The vibration when braking after they warp gets progressivly worse. don't have a permanent fix other than to replace the rotors.

yes. the pads are hanging up in the cast iron mounts. see my message above...

fourwheeler · 10-17-2011, 07:48 PM

Notmycar, if you keep replacing rotors and they keep warping, you have other issues going on with your brakes. Check the pads to make sure they move freely, does the caliper slide from side to side slightly, with someone activating the brakes, does the piston move and retract, are the wheel bearings needing to be replaced, is there rust on the axle flange where the rotor mounts to, are the lug nuts being properly torqued. All of these issues can cause the brakes to warp.