Last year I was doing my car up. I changed the fuel pump by itself, as it so happened, so I can say what a difference it made. The motor ran smoother, stronger and made less noise. Seemed to run cooler, too...
Today I helped a friend that bought an old avvy, 'cause he likes mine - lol. His car has right at 200k on it. It runs sweet. Seems to have been cared for... All we did to it when he bought it was change the oil.
The repair (along with a fuel filter that was a tossup) certainly did make his car run better! Going onto the interstate, now, is like it's another car! That motor makes a really nice waaa sound, now
Seriously. Rock auto has bosch pumps cheap. Half what autozone wants! A really good strainer is $6. The pump goes in from beneath the back seat - you don't have to pull the tank, like some cheap-a**ed american car! It's a very easy job for anyone with any mechanical ability.
And it sure pays off. Try it - you'll LIKE it!
If you're a hopeless "technician" get a gauge, and check the pressure. With around 200k (which I think is average, for one of these cars) that old pump is getting tired. Wouldn't you rather change it now instead of alongside the road, in the middle of next winter?
Yeah, we had the fuel pump replaced on our old 96 Voyager, Mopar parts were expensive and the tank had to be dropped, and some other part had to be replaced, like a fuel hose and a little egged shaped plastic part. I think it cost $500 to get it done, IIRC, but it ran really nice after.
I didn't know that they would act quite like that, although obviously they can. My pickup ran fine until it started to "stumble" when accelerating up a ramp etc. Then one day it just wouldn't start. $500 later it ran great.
I didn't know that they would act quite like that, although obviously they can. My pickup ran fine until it started to "stumble" when accelerating up a ramp etc. Then one day it just wouldn't start. $500 later it ran great.
the whole thing cost me less than a hundred (shipping included) and required less than an hour to do! 10 OUT OF 10 IN THE "BANG FOR THE BUCK" category...
You have really got me thinking here. I've definitely noticed a 'lag' time from when the accelerator is depressed, to when the engine responds and I think this may possibly be the issue or part of it.
On RockAuto I see 2 Bosch pumps, 1 for $78.79 (Part #69487) and one for $185.79. (Part #69722). Do you have any idea what the difference here is, especially with the big price difference?
Also, If you could list out the steps for this, as you say it's a simple procedure. (I know step 1 is remove back seat bottom), or add any tips, e.g. do you have to have the tank empty to a certain point or anything like that?
You have really got me thinking here. I've definitely noticed a 'lag' time from when the accelerator is depressed, to when the engine responds and I think this may possibly be the issue or part of it.
On RockAuto I see 2 Bosch pumps, 1 for $78.79 (Part #69487) and one for $185.79. (Part #69722). Do you have any idea what the difference here is, especially with the big price difference?
Also, If you could list out the steps for this, as you say it's a simple procedure. (I know step 1 is remove back seat bottom), or add any tips, e.g. do you have to have the tank empty to a certain point or anything like that?
THANKS SO MUCH!
NO!!!
STEP ONE IS TO REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE !!!!
there is an off chance a spark might occur. it won't, if the battery is disconnected. place the cable where the motion of the car as you move around in the back seat can not cause it to contact the battery post.
no need to drain the tank, etc. just roll the windows down before you begin, so the fumes don't get you !!
then just take out the seat (pull hard on the outside edge, straight up), remove the black dust cover then the wiring plug. Unscrew the philips headed fasteners in the top of the fuel pump assembly, and lift it out.
use pliers to place the clamp at the bottom of the fuel pump hose all the way up then force the pump down on the pipe. that will create clearance to remove it from the cage.
i used the $78 pump, both times. it works great. it has a wiring adapter. the expensive one, i presume, is custom-made for this application. i used a plastic tie-wrap to keep the wiring adapter out of the way of the gas gauge arm/float, and another to assure that the pump stays back, inside the cage.
this is self-explanatory, in the extreme. there's a clamp with a ground wire for the case of the pump. move it to the new pump, install it, and that's it. then swallow hard as you wonder if it is going to blow you to he77, as you turn the key... roflmao!
the computer assumes many things. one of them is proper pressure, from the fuel pump. proper pressure (at all rates of flow) = proper fuel/air mixture, in the cylinders. you'll be surprised just how much of a difference the new pump will make!
but a dirty fuel filter will cause "lag time" as well... not to mention something like engine shut-off, when you hold it to the floor.
the fuel filter is much more of a PITA than the fuel pump! lol the emissions canister is under the master cylinder. pull up on it. it will rise, out of its mounts. then you can shove it back under the exhaust manifold, to get the damn thing out of your way. NOW you have room to use 2 wrenches on the line on the bottom of the fuel filter...
Very interesting . My 98 has 210k miles and has never had the fuel pump replacement. I thought that when a fuel pump fails, it fails completely - either works or not at all. Any thoughts anyone??
Very interesting . My 98 has 210k miles and has never had the fuel pump replacement. I thought that when a fuel pump fails, it fails completely - either works or not at all. Any thoughts anyone??
You can and should do pressure and electrical tests on your fuel pump before replacing it. If you are going to just start replacing parts, why not replace the fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator too? Heck, replace the whole engine, lol.
So just randomly replace parts because they might fail, regardless of diagnostic test results? Don't get me wrong, I'm a proponent of preventative maintenance on things that are almost guaranteed to need replacing within a car's normal life span; spark plugs & wires, filters, serpentine belts, coolant hoses, stuff like that. But fuel pumps?... no. I'm certain the junk yards are full of vehicles with their original fuel pumps.
I hesitate to respond in this thread, because I know you'll ignore or attack anyone who disagrees with your opinion. But I chose to anyway, for the benefit of someone who might be thinking of following your advice.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
The Following User Says Thank You to BMR For This Useful Post:
ok. let's have some fun, then. people with 200k or thereabouts on their cars, do whatever testing you do on your pump but not just idle pressure - make sure it delivers the proper pressure while accelerating and going fast, as well.
while fuel pumps are not maintenance items, nothing lasts forever. my experience has been that changing the high-miler pump on two cars has caused a very pleasant improvement in the way the engines run.
and your experience? oh. that's right. you have none...
in short, if your car runs and drives it does not require a fuel pump. which is not to say it will not run better if you put one on it. if you're into inexpensive transportation i wonder why you have an avy... if you're into the maximum experience you can get, from your avy, and if you have a lot of miles on yours, change the fuel pump
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