Mechanic wants $800 to replace all 3 oxygen sensors (2 front, one rear) on my 1997 Avalon, consisting of $239 for each front sensor and $199 for rear, with $100 labor. Check engine code indicates this is the issue. Sounds expensive to me -- is this a fair price?
Alternatively, is this a repair I can do myself? Doesn't sound difficult. What exact parts would I need from, for example, ?
Seems highly unlikely all three would go bad at once. Did he say what the error code was?... should be something like Pnnnn, where the n's are numbers.
Edit: If it's the just the one in the front bank, it's about as easy to replace as it possibly gets. The rear bank is harder, but not ridiculous. The third one, downstream from the cat is the most difficult. I've never done it, but if I recall correctly, the driver's seat has to come out and access it from the interior. They have threads that screw in to the exhaust, so they can be stuck hard sometimes.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
Seems highly unlikely all three would go bad at once. Did he say what the error code was?... should be something like Pnnnn, where the n's are numbers.
Edit: If it's the just the one in the front bank, it's about as easy to replace as it possibly gets. The rear bank is harder, but not ridiculous. The third one, downstream from the cat is the most difficult. I've never done it, but if I recall correctly, the driver's seat has to come out and access it from the interior. They have threads that screw in to the exhaust, so they can be stuck hard sometimes.
Just be sure to get Denso sensors, either through an online dealer like TN member Toyopartsman, or by looking up the Denso part # and searching for a supplier. Denso is the OE manufacturer.
Just be sure to get Denso sensors, either through an online dealer like TN member Toyopartsman, or by looking up the Denso part # and searching for a supplier. Denso is the OE manufacturer.
Listen to TedL - do NOT use anything except Denso, especially don't use Bosch. Also, don't replace the fronts until you need to.
I now know that I need to get the rear 02 sensor in my 97 Avalon. The code was P0136 (Bank 1, Sensor 2). I'm confused as to how this is installed -- does the driver's seat come out to access the sensor, and is it hard to remove? If too difficult I will bring to a mechanic, but I'd like to do this myself as it seems like an easy job.
passenger's seat, 'cause toyota was too STUPID to make a hole in the floor, large enough to pass the plug for the sensor.
alternatively, the hole can be cut, the metal bent down, the plug moved out and changed, then the metal bent back into place and, finally, use silicon sealer to make the mess waterproof...
Reality check time. The passenger's seat is retained by four bolts, each of which takes less than a minute with a hand ratchet...never mind pneumatic. Just put seat all the way back to access front bolts, and vice versa. Then tilt seat rearward to rest on rear seat.
You do not want to drag out the saw or torch to avoid R&R'ing four bolts with unfettered access.
Reality check time. The passenger's seat is retained by four bolts, each of which takes less than a minute with a hand ratchet...never mind pneumatic. Just put seat all the way back to access front bolts, and vice versa. Then tilt seat rearward to rest on rear seat.
You do not want to drag out the saw or torch to avoid R&R'ing four bolts with unfettered access.
i even said the seat comes out easy. but there's a little more to it. seat needs to come all the way out. opportunity to lube the power seat, there. shifter cover needs to be pried off. i lunched a speed nut and that was a trip to the junkyard... carpet, and hanging it back onto the rails for the console takes time.
i just used tin snips the first time. took 2 minutes, then 2 more to button it back up. o and the front outside bolt is kind of a pain to put back. start it by hand. the ratchet will cause it to try to go in crooked... plastic covers r fun, 2. specially the inside rears
doing it all from under the car in about a half hour... well, there IS something to be said for that.
I loathe the day I have to do this, so the passenger seat, carpet and center console has to come out?
No. Remove seat. Then you reach in under the carpet to unplug the sensor from the wiring harness. Console doesn't need to be touched. The snap on/snap off door sill trim needs to be pulled up to allow reaching under carpet. Throw front floor mat on driveway and kneel on it to reach in from side. Look under car to see location where O2S wire comes up through floor, reach there and follow wire with hand. Simple. Very simple.
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No. Remove seat. Then you reach in under the carpet to unplug the sensor from the wiring harness. Console doesn't need to be touched. The snap on/snap off door sill trim needs to be pulled up to allow reaching under carpet. Throw front floor mat on driveway and kneel on it to reach in from side. Look under car to see location where O2S wire comes up through floor, reach there and follow wire with hand. Simple. Very simple.
Wow, that's cake. Good time to look into why the top part of the seat shakes back and forth when nobody is in it.
Thanks, doesn't seem too hard. To unscrew the old sensor and install new one though, you need to put the car on a lift?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedL
No. Remove seat. Then you reach in under the carpet to unplug the sensor from the wiring harness. Console doesn't need to be touched. The snap on/snap off door sill trim needs to be pulled up to allow reaching under carpet. Throw front floor mat on driveway and kneel on it to reach in from side. Look under car to see location where O2S wire comes up through floor, reach there and follow wire with hand. Simple. Very simple.
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