I am trying to replace rack and pinion. Everything is disconnected, but I have to get the bolts out. I am using a 19mm wrenc h, on the nut side(closest to engine), but cant get it to budge. The head of the bolt (towards rearof car) is blockedd bythesway bar. Should I remove the sway bar to loosen the bolts from the head side?
There are a ton of post on here about replacing, so I figured someone would know!
Thank you in advance!
take it to a technician. he'll charge you for disassembling the entire car... rofl. or, do it yourself. those nuts that hold the sway bar on are FUN! then you still have the problem of the stuck bolts... not sure how a technician would handle bolts that are stuck, after 14 years or so... prombly remove the engine/trans, so he/she could gain direct access to them!
it will be only after you're done that you can say just who it is that needs to be ignored .)
I am trying to replace rack and pinion. Everything is disconnected, but I have to get the bolts out. I am using a 19mm wrenc h, on the nut side(closest to engine), but cant get it to budge. The head of the bolt (towards rearof car) is blockedd bythesway bar. Should I remove the sway bar to loosen the bolts from the head side?
There are a ton of post on here about replacing, so I figured someone would know!
Thank you in advance!
I did the R&P on my son's 97 Camry back about 6 years ago, and don't remember this being a big problem. Do you have ratcheting box wrenches, like gear wrench? FSM procedure for R&R the R&P says to free the sway bar for movement by removing the two bushing retainers (4 bolts, again best dealt with using ratcheting boxes). Change bushings while you're in there.
Last edited by TedL; 10-21-2011 at 08:17 PM.
Reason: Looked it up in FSM
another ally mechanic trick is to put the box end of another large wrench into the open end of the wrench that's on the bolt, so that it can be used as an extender... increasing the leverage (doubling it) and probably getting the thing to pop.
For "no slip" leverage, I recommend getting the plumbing dept at HD/Lowes to cut a 10 ft length of 1.25 or 1.5 (preferable) inch steel pipe into a 4, 3, 2 and 1 ft length, and thread both ends. Buy one coupling also. Cheap way to get reliable leverage that can slide over a ratchet or combination wrench. Just don't use the long ones with ratchets you'd have to pay to replace.
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, take it to the mechanic.
It worked fine until I fixed it! 
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