My mother had me drive her '95 Avalon today. Just over 290,000 miles on her. She said it didn't feel right on the road and that the steering was weird.
All 4 struts are beyond shot, and the effort needed to turn the wheel lock-to-lock is very inconsistent...way too much effort required in various spots, and there's a bit of grinding turning left when the car is cold.
Engine and transmission both are great. Still pulls strong and shifts smooth.
Another negative though, the catalytic converter was replaced years ago with an aftermarket one 1/3 the size of the factory unit. A few gallons of extra ethanol and some 'guaranteed to pass' additive are needed for it to pass CT emissions. (it's been at 199/200 ppm for hydrocarbons the last several times...the limit is 200).
She loves the car, but I'm of the opinion it's not worth all new suspension and possibly the steering at it's age and mileage. This was my car when I first got my license so outright saying it has to go is tough...
__________________
Toyotas in the family/next of kin:
1982 Corolla Wagon, 1989 Corolla DX, 1991 Previa LE, 1993 Previa LE,
1993 Pickup, 1994 Corolla DX, 1995 Avalon XL, 1996 Camry XLE, 1998 Avalon XL,
1998 Sienna CE, 1999 Camry XL, 2000 Camry XLE, 2002 Tundra, 2003 Tundra,
2003 ES 300, 2004 Camry XLE, 2005 Tacoma
I would find a low mileage Avalon or Camry V6 at the junkyard and get strut assemblies from them if you don't want to spend alot of money. The strut bearings could be the problem of your inconsistent steering feel.
If the engine and trans are as good as you say and you don't have a rust problem and your Mother is a low mileage, around town driver, I would absolutely fix her up. What you are talking about is pretty minor. Even if you need a new rack and/or PS pump, it will still cost far less than buying new. And, if you buy used, how will you know what you are getting is better than what you already have?
If the engine and trans are as good as you say and you don't have a rust problem and your Mother is a low mileage, around town driver, I would absolutely fix her up. What you are talking about is pretty minor. Even if you need a new rack and/or PS pump, it will still cost far less than buying new. And, if you buy used, how will you know what you are getting is better than what you already have?
Ditto.
__________________
-------------------------
2008 Highlander Base 4WD
2002 Avalon XL
1987 Suzuki Samurai 4X4 - Treading where no Jeep can follow....
Well, as it turns out, it's one of the CV joints causing the steering issues. It wasn't producing all the normal symptoms, and looked great only recently, but the boot is all torn up and it's slinging grease out. Every time I've seen a CV joint go it's been a constantly clicking/grinding while turning, and I don't remember it causing inconsistent steering feel, but thankfully one of those isn't bad. I feared the whole rack and pinion, which I know had problems on this car (and had to be fixed after she got it).
The struts will still need to be done, but now that I know the steering isn't going to quit on her my dad can do them as he has time and save on the labor cost. Anyone know if Monroe makes a quick strut for the Avalon?
There is rust on the car, but just where there was a minor scrape on the front side, and where there's deep rock chips on the hood. Not spreading much and nowhere near rusting through.
I was just worried the cost of parts alone would be more than the car was worth. While I'd love to see her in a safer car, she loves her Avalon, and struts + CV joint is a lot more reasonable to do vs struts + rack & pinion. She got over 300k out of an '86 Caravan (Mitsu engine..not the 120k max Chrysler unit) and is determined to beat that with the Avalon.
__________________
Toyotas in the family/next of kin:
1982 Corolla Wagon, 1989 Corolla DX, 1991 Previa LE, 1993 Previa LE,
1993 Pickup, 1994 Corolla DX, 1995 Avalon XL, 1996 Camry XLE, 1998 Avalon XL,
1998 Sienna CE, 1999 Camry XL, 2000 Camry XLE, 2002 Tundra, 2003 Tundra,
2003 ES 300, 2004 Camry XLE, 2005 Tacoma
i suggest you go drive a few used cars. then remember how your avvy drove, before it needed repairs. at that point, your decision should become clear...
everyone tries to buy my car - especially if they ride in it. $20,000 is my price...
I put Monroe quick struts in my Avalon this summer. They were about 135 each and qualified for a buy 3 get 1 free rebate. I got them from Amazon. Someone said the springs weren't rated for the extra weight of the Avalon. I haven't had any problems and they drastically improved my ride. KYB are the OEM replacement, but you can buy 2 quick struts for the price of piecing together 1 KYB strut, spring, mount, rubber, stops, etc. I didn't have any problems with the installation and they just bolted right in.
While your CV joint may be slinging grease and needing replacement, I doubt it is contributing to your steering issues. I thought PMESFUN was on the right track with the strut bearings needing replacement.
My avy is at 247k ... the only thing I hate....the audio ( I think the facyory amp is at fault) ...otherwise is way way better quality made and reliable car than many 00+ cars.....my dad.s 02 rendwvouz, my godfather's 02 altima, my father in laws 99 camry all have had more problems and more expensive/extensive repairs
My Dad put on the new CV joint today...is doing the other tomorrow (parts place only had one in stock). Given the age of the car he figures both are called for. Can't argue there.
I'll drive it and see after both are done. My Dad tends to think things aren't a problem when I insist that they are (I have a perfect record in being right). Should the struts be replaced, which I will insist on, the mounts will be too. He at least does all related things to save time...he's done many a strut replacement only to have to replace the mount after....
Hopefully the CV joints will fix the steering issue...
__________________
Toyotas in the family/next of kin:
1982 Corolla Wagon, 1989 Corolla DX, 1991 Previa LE, 1993 Previa LE,
1993 Pickup, 1994 Corolla DX, 1995 Avalon XL, 1996 Camry XLE, 1998 Avalon XL,
1998 Sienna CE, 1999 Camry XL, 2000 Camry XLE, 2002 Tundra, 2003 Tundra,
2003 ES 300, 2004 Camry XLE, 2005 Tacoma
Another negative though, the catalytic converter was replaced years ago with an aftermarket one 1/3 the size of the factory unit. A few gallons of extra ethanol and some 'guaranteed to pass' additive are needed for it to pass CT emissions. (it's been at 199/200 ppm for hydrocarbons the last several times...the limit is 200).
acetone. get it at menards, in the paint department. be sure it says pure acetone. about 5 ounces per 10 gallons of gas and you don't even NEED a cat, to pass!
be very careful with this stuff. it is volatile, in the extreme!
As far as the steering goes, take a look at the universal joint in the steering shaft just after it passes through the fire wall. Mine got stiff and made the steering effort hard. Spraying with lots of WD-40 fixed it.
As far as the steering goes, take a look at the universal joint in the steering shaft just after it passes through the fire wall. Mine got stiff and made the steering effort hard. Spraying with lots of WD-40 fixed it.
i was going to mention this. i have seen this happen many times. it feels like the power steering is going in and out.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
1999 Toyota Avalon
But seriously 20K? Our cars are worth 6k at most.
Linear Mode
