My g/f's '98 Avalon has been having key issues lately. We replaced the ignition switch over a year ago, and when we had the lock cylinder out, we noticed several of the tumblers were broken in half. However, it seemed to work OK, so we left it alone at the time.
Well, it seized internally; the key would only rotate a little bit, and not all the way to the ACC position so we could pull it out (you have to press the small pin underneath and then the ignition will pull out, but only in the ACC position). We tried to drill the small pin, but it just kept spinning, so we didn't make much progress. Ultimately, we had to drill/pry/mangle the ignition from the front, which wasn't easy. However, we got it out. During the process, we took off the air bag and the steering wheel, as well as unplugged all of the connectors to the ignition switch and the other assorted electrical goodies on the ignition.
We reassembled it all (following the Haynes manual instructions for setting the clockspring underneath the steering wheel) and it seemed to start up OK . . . but as soon as it was put into Reverse or Drive, and the steering wheel was turned, the steering wheel would lock. Put it in Park, and the steering wheel would unlock. Also, with the key out of the ignition and the lights off, the car would 'chime' if the door was open, as if the key was still in or the lights were still on. The doors would not stay locked, either; if you pressed 'lock', the doors would lock, then immediately unlock. We had to disconnect the battery and lock the doors manually to make sure everything locked.
not specifically... but when i have had the good fortune to solve a problem like that - one that comprises many unrelated (or barely related) symptoms, the solution usually involves a bad ground, somewhere. did you forget to put a ground wire back on?
check the steering column, to be sure the clock spring really is grounding it. put a light bulb in series with a hot wire then ground it to the center of the steering shaft (to make sure the ground will carry current).
Thanks for the suggestion, BonzoGonzo! Nowhere could I see a broken/missing ground, everything looks tight. Might still be the problem though.
I did solve some of the issues. Early on, I broke a plastic clip above the ignition, not thinking much of it. We've been working on it at night, so our lighting hasn't been the greatest. Today, with daylight, I examined it closely and realized it was really a switch! I disassembled the gauge cluster bezel so that I could get to it; sure enough, when I unplug the connector, now the chiming stops, and the doors are able to be locked now. The long brass colored rod on top of the ignition key module? That actuates this switch through a small window on the top of the ignition housing.
However, the steering wheel locking into place is still an issue. Actually, the only way to unlock it is to turn the car off; then it moves freely. I pulled the steering wheel off again, without thinking; when I did so, it pulled loose the connector for the cruise control to the steering column, but it also pulled the ground pin out of the connector. I resecured it, and tried it again; still locks.
Question: after aligning the clockspring according to the directions (2.5 turns from either left or right), how far down does the steering wheel have to be installed onto the splined shaft? I noticed that the inner white ring with 'divots' sticking out that fits into the bottom of the steering wheel pushes down rather far. I've hammered on the wheel with a socket/extension/hammer combination somewhat and tightened the center nut as tight as I can, but do I need to really wail on the steering wheel to get it to sit further down? Could this cause the problems with the locking wheel?
Also, there is a solenoid underneath the ignition . . . what does it do?
Turns out, that 'intermediate' shaft that sits inside the ignition and connects the ignition cylinder to the ignition switch was installed 180 degrees out of phase. Oops! Once I took it out and reinstalled it, the wheel could be turned without locking in Drive and Reverse. Took apart the whole steering column before I figured this out.
Ordered a new Key Unlock Warning Switch (the switch above the ignition housing that lets the car know if a key is in the ignition or not, responsible for the chiming warning if you leave it in, and not letting the locks lock on their own) for about $36 from the local Toyota dealership. Once its in, I'll completely reassemble everything, and reinstall all of the covers.
We accidentally drilled a little bit into that 'intermediate' shaft when we removed the ignition, so I'm repairing the damage with JB Weld before I reinstall it. It works, but it may break prematurely without the support.
I may post pics in the next week or so, if anyone's interested to see the innards of the ignition.
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