Power window master switch short/blues

[jrws6]

Been lurking and searching a while, LOL

I just picked up a commuter 95 Toyota Avalon with 240K. The car runs and drives well, just had a few issues that the other owner was content living with, but I am not lol. The drivers side power window will only go down, (not back up) via the switch. I have removed both door panels and checked for bad places in the wiring paying close attention to the parts that come thru the door from the body. After taking apart the master switch it seems the drives window button is just wore out and sloppy, doesn't make any contact except occasional y down.

Got a new switch from junkyard , and the new switch blew my fuse instantly. Replace fuse, tried old master switch and was able to gain control of the other windows, but of course no drivers side. 2nd junkyard switch blew the fuse instantly again.

I have unplugged the wring harness that goes to the passenger side doors trying to locate this short. doing this tells me that the short is between the master switch harness and the passenger side kick panel. I have also remved the radio, heater controls, glovebox, lower dashes, and all trying to hear where the clicking noise is coming from just before the fuse blows.

so basically I am left with an original master switch that doesn't operate the drivers window, and two "good switches" that pop the PW fuse instantly upon plugging them in.
???? Any thoughts or suggestions would be very much appreciated. where all have you guys found PW shorts?

[Jigg007]

I take it that its blowing the 30A fuse, and not the gauge (10A?) fuse. Also when you say it immediately blows it, does that mean when you plug the master switch panel in, then turn on the car the fuse pops? or the fuse pops when you try to operate the window?

[Tech1984]

Short is most likely at the drivers door wiring harness where the boot is between door and body.

[jrws6]

Originally Posted by Jigg007

I take it that its blowing the 30A fuse, and not the gauge (10A?) fuse. Also when you say it immediately blows it, does that mean when you plug the master switch panel in, then turn on the car the fuse pops? or the fuse pops when you try to operate the window?

Yes the 30A fuse. It blows it as soon as I plug in the new master switch, without even getting a chance to try and operate the window.

[jrws6]

Originally Posted by Tech1984

Short is most likely at the drivers door wiring harness where the boot is between door and body.

I appreciate the replies guys :-) I know wiring issues are a pain.

I have sliced into the boot and examined the wires after they leave the body all the way until they enter the switch plug. Can anyone decifer a wiring diagram and tell which wires should be hot and which should not on the switch plug? I am pretty sure the blue one should be hot with key on but not sure which others. The only part of the wires I cant/havent examined closely are the ones leaving the junction box at drivers side kick panel to the just before the rubber boot between body and door.
Anyone else had a problem there?

[Jigg007]

Well.. the car does have the feature so when the car is switched off the windows are still operable for 60 seconds or so until one of the doors are open. Sounds like its not working properly if its consantly blowing the fuse even with the doors open (or i assume you have the door open when replacing the switch), where the relay is stuck on. Also, the blue (light blue?) wire is what feeds power to the master window switch.

[jrws6]

I Cant find the relay for the PW, anyone know where it is located, specifically?