It should be about 1750-1500, and about 1100-1000 in gear.
Clean the throttle body and spray throttle body cleaner into the idle air control valve hole and let that soak for about 10 minutes. Pull the EFI fuse and put it back in to reset only the ECU, then start up the car. It may smoke for a moment, but that's the carbon and cleaner burning off.
Could you help me locate idle air control valve hole and EFI fuse so i can try these methods, hope it works.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmesfun
It should be about 1750-1500, and about 1100-1000 in gear.
Clean the throttle body and spray throttle body cleaner into the idle air control valve hole and let that soak for about 10 minutes. Pull the EFI fuse and put it back in to reset only the ECU, then start up the car. It may smoke for a moment, but that's the carbon and cleaner burning off.
Could you help me locate idle air control valve hole and EFI fuse so i can try these methods, hope it works.
Look at the first pic in this thread. The IACV port is in the intake, at the bottom, just in front of the brass-colored plate. You'll have to remove the rubber intake tube to access it. That pic is from a 4 cylinder Camry, but yours will be very similar.
The EFI fuse is in the fusebox under the hood, near the battery. They're labeled; easy to find.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
Look at the first pic in this thread. The IACV port is in the intake, at the bottom, just in front of the brass-colored plate. You'll have to remove the rubber intake tube to access it. That pic is from a 4 cylinder Camry, but yours will be very similar.
The EFI fuse is in the fusebox under the hood, near the battery. They're labeled; easy to find.
I sprayed and cleaned all intake area, no diff in cold start. Also noticed when i put it in reverse theres a clunk but in drive its smooth during cold high idle. (1,500+ RPM) What should i be most concerned with?
I sprayed and cleaned all intake area, no diff in cold start. Also noticed when i put it in reverse theres a clunk but in drive its smooth during cold high idle. (1,500+ RPM) What should i be most concerned with?
It is NOT unusual for your car to have a cold fast idle of 1800-2100 rpm. Many people have complained about this and Toyota says this is normal. If your idle ramps down to 650-750 when engine reaches normal op temp and all other idle control functions work, eg idle increases when you turn on A/C, then your problem most likely lies in the ECU look-up tables. The fix is simple as I posted earlier in this thread.
Last edited by artbuc; 02-07-2012 at 04:11 AM.
The Following User Says Thank You to artbuc For This Useful Post:
It is NOT unusual for your car to have a cold fast idle of 1800-2100 rpm. Many people have complained about this and Toyota says this is normal. If your idle ramps down to 650-750 when engine reaches normal op temp and all other idle control functions work, eg idle increases when you turn on A/C, then your problem most likely lies in the ECU look-up tables. The fix is simple as I posted earlier in this thread.
Hey artbuc, I just went to that link; nice fix! I didn't before because I was on my phone and it's painfully slow. Have you done this?... If you'd do a DIY thread with some pics, I'd be more than happy to sticky it. It'd be nice to have one when this problem crops up again.
Edit: DOH!... just noticed it was you posting in that linked thread.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
Hey artbuc, I just went to that link; nice fix! I didn't before because I was on my phone and it's painfully slow. Have you done this?... If you'd do a DIY thread with some pics, I'd be more than happy to sticky it. It'd be nice to have one when this problem crops up again.
Edit: DOH!... just noticed it was you posting in that linked thread.
Yes, it works great. Please use the existing link for DIY sticky-it contains theory, installation sketch and a couple pics.
hey art, i've been meaning to try this for a while now, and i looked at the pix, but i can't quite figure out where in the engine compartment i am .
will you please tell me what part of the compartment the ECT sensor is located in, or maybe what is is near?
hey art, i've been meaning to try this for a while now, and i looked at the pix, but i can't quite figure out where in the engine compartment i am .
will you please tell me what part of the compartment the ECT sensor is located in, or maybe what is is near?
Jack, if you lean in from the passenger side front tire and look down directly at the top of the coolant pressure cap, you will see the ECT sensor at about 8 o'clock (in plan view), sitting right behind the TB cover.
The Following User Says Thank You to artbuc For This Useful Post:
Maybe related, maybe not. I have an odd, intermittent issue. That sometimes on cold mornings, first start of the day, the engine will turn over and immediately drop to "hot" idle, around 650rpm, which is kinda lame when you want a warm car when you leave for work
Thought it might be a temperature sensor on the intake, not sure if it has one and where. Maybe it is part of the MAF? I looked around and kicked around some of the wiring harnesses in that area, But its too soon to see if it cured the intermittent problem.
I'll chime in too, that when the car has its correct cold idle speed, its just shy of 2krpm if its really cold outside. 1500rpm is pretty normal otherwise, 30F and above.
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