Unfortunately, my 1998 Avalon displayed the check engine light and the scanner said, "P0135 02 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1).
Does anyone one know the part number?
Autozone has a universal part for $70 or the replacement for $100 in stock at my local store.
Any instruction on how to replacement it?
I replaced one on my 2003 toyota tacoma. Is it at the same location?
any screenshot will be greatly appreciated.
Bank 1 Sensor 1 is in the rear bank's exhaust downpipe, which is next to the firewall. There's a picture showing where it is in this thread; scroll down a bit to get to it. That's showing it on a V6 Camry, which is almost the same. Go at it from above. I believe something has to be removed to get better access... intake rubber tube???... I forget. The sensor screws into the exhaust pipe, and may be stuck. Use some penetrating oil like liquid wrench or PB blaster to help break it loose.
Your car may have O2 (Federal) or Air/Fuel sensors (CA), depending on if it's Fed or CA emissions compliant. Look in the engine bay for a sticker that says which one it complies with.
Highly recommend you use Denso sensors; they're the OEM supplier to Toyota. You can look up the correct part number here in Denso's online catalog. In there, "OE Style" means it comes with the connector. "Universal" means it does not, and you have to transfer the connector from the old sensor to the new one. Those kind come with crimping tube(s) and heat shrink tubing to do that. Amazon or Rockauto.com are both good on pricing. If you want genuine Toyota, Gary Smith, "toyopartsman" is great to buy from.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
The Following User Says Thank You to BMR For This Useful Post:
I had the same problem and replaced the O2 sensor myself on my '98 Avalon. I haven't done any of my own work on my car since college so this was a little fun but also a challenge.
The first thing I did was invest $20 in a Chilton's Manual for the Camry/Avalon/Lexus 350. It had a step-by-step procedure (with pictures) on changing the O2 sensor. There are 3 sensors on the V6. One on each exhaust manifold and the third one is between the catalytic converter and the muffler.
The bank 2, sensor 1 is the easiest to get at. It is accessed from the front of the vehicle and from above. Just pop the hood and its right there behind the radiator hose. It looks kind of like a spark plug but its on the exhaust manifold.
Bank 1, sensor 1 must be accessed from underneath the vehicle. Its on the other exhaust manifold (the one you can't see when you pop the hood). Just put it up on jack stands and you get to lay down while you go to work on loosening up the sensor.
Bank 1, sensor 2, requires that you remove the driver's seat to disconnect the harness and you access it from under the vehicle.
Don't try to take out when the vehicle is cold. You won't get anywhere. Let the car run for 5 minutes or so until the exhaust manifold is nice and hot.
They make a slotted socket that fits over the sensor and lets the sensor wires fit through the slot. Don't waste your money on that. There is no room for a breakover bar and they don't make a ratchet arm long enough to get any leverage unless you plan on using a ratcheting torque wrench which I don't recommend. The best tool for this is a combination wrench. Use the box end. Be careful with the open end. You don't want to strip the hex fitting off the sensor because then you'll never get it out.
If the sensor doesn't seem to want to budge, soak it with some penetrating oil and let it sit for a while. Be sure to warm up the car when you are ready to try again. Be patient and keep working it little by little. The exhaust manifold is cast aluminum and the sensor is brass. You don't want to strip out the threads or you'll never get the new one back in. That's what happened to me. I ended up using a spark plug thread chaser to get a thread started again and was finally able to get the new sensor in.
Before going to get the new sensor, disconnect the electrical harness from the old one and take a close-up pic of it with your smart phone so you can compare it with the one you get at the part store. It has a unique shape and only the part that has that shape will work. I got the right number the first time but the part was mislabeled so I had to go back and get another one because it wouldn't connect to the harness.
Please, please, please listen to BMR above, and not this post. This post misidentifies which sensors are indicated by bank and sensor #. I would not rely on it at all. The writer may have good intentions, and may be relying on what he considers a reliable source, but he's sending you to the wrong locations.
thanks everyone.
i got it replaced. This sensor is by the firewall. Took me 15 min to repaced and $88 on part (Denso).
Car runs like a champ and still have many years to go. Only 97k miles now :-)
Please, please, please listen to BMR above, and not this post. This post misidentifies which sensors are indicated by bank and sensor #. I would not rely on it at all. The writer may have good intentions, and may be relying on what he considers a reliable source, but he's sending you to the wrong locations.
@#$%! After all of that, you mean I replaced the wrong one?!?
@#$%! After all of that, you mean I replaced the wrong one?!?
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Bank 1 is by OBD2 definition the bank with cylinder #1. On an Avalon, that's the bank near the firewall. Bank 2 is the other one on a V or flat engine. Sensor numbers, you start counting from the engine and work toward the exhaust outlet.
B1S1 can be pretty readily changed from above if you remove the air intake hose(s) between the filter box and the TB to give better access. I've done it on my 99 and 03 Avalons.
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