Quote:
Originally Posted by wallstreet387
Okay, let me start off by saying that I'm writing this message on my iPhone on the way back from looking at the car ( don't worry my dad is driving :-) ) and I really liked the car but it has a few issues and I wanted your guys' opinions.
The car is a 2001 xls pearl white with gray leather, and is fully loaded minus heated seats and navi. It has 91xxx miles and I get a good impression of the seller. Now on to the issues: the car has not had the timing belt, waterpump, or tensioner pulley replaced, has two large cracks in the windshield and will need new tires soon (5,000 on fronts, 10,000 on rears). However, the main issue is that the car has some minor hail damage on it. Nothing huge but I'm just not positive on how much this will affect my satisfaction with the car. The asking price is $8500 but I'm pretty confident that I can get it for $8000. Is this a good deal?
Also, the car has a light on in the dash that is a symbol that is of the car in amber with an indication to the rear of the car, what is this? I forgot to ask him and figured you might be able to help. Also there is a minor squeak at idle from near the alternator, is this a sign of replacement? I really like the car, and my financial situation limits me to pretty much either a 1st gen or this car.
Thanks in advance for any help/advice you can provide!!
Jason
Edit: Also is it necessary for me to the timing belt etc. replaced immediately or can I wait a while? If so, how long? I've heard both sides that the 3.0 is a "non-interference" engine but was not sure if this was true.
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Welcome to the forum!
CupCate has it right with the bulb and hail damage- it's your $ !
The 90k maintenance is due now - budget for a TB, H20 pump, coolant change, tensioner, accessory belts, maybe hoses, air f, ATF X, cabin filter, oil X, you mentioned tires, look for any service to the rear struts or stabilizer bar , battery, brakes, and dicker! These are good cars, and if you get a good one the maintenance cost is the cost of maintenance.
The whole issue comes to the sludge situation, (or oil gel as Toyota call it) that these engines are susceptible to. Check his OCI receipts and log. Determine the type and timing of the work and go from there. Seems synthetic use reduced if not eliminated the threat. Conventional oil even at correct intervals lead in many cases to the sludge deposits! Use that fact to dicker the price!
Engine off, open the oil cap and look at the bottom of it as well as into the engine. Might be a baffle preventing a good view, but you can stick your finger carefully in there and bring out the residue. Look for deposits, goo, white residue,etc. Talk with the guy and dicker. Buy, don't buy. Enjoy and learn from the process.
Then POST your findings.
We all learn from what happens that is shared!