ABS wicked sensitive after 4 wheel brake/rotor replace

[preacherzson]

I had a pulsation while driving that Midas said was bad rotors. So instead of paying them $500 to do it, I did pads and rotors for all 4 (115kmi; bought the car at 99k miles and it didn't have records for brake work). I had to replace one of my back calipers b/c the head stripped off of one of the caliper bolt/pins.

Now, my ABS seems overly sensitive. It fires up if I go over any dip or pothole in the road while I am braking. There is also a downhill hairpin turn to the right that now activates the ABS. Neither of these things activated the ABS before. I've also notices a couple of times that my front rotors have been heating up/smelling like crazy. The car typically doesn't pull during braking

So, my questions are:

• Would not replacing the rubber slide bushings on the slide pins cause my calipers to malfunction/stick?
• Is my abs sensor going or do I need to do something to recalibrate my ABS system?
• Could it just be calipers sticking? Should the rest of my calipers move as freely as the new caliper did (I got a caliper with all the bolts and hardware included. I was flabbergasted at the difference between the action of the new caliper on the slide pins versus the old calipers- I could move the new caliper in and out easily by hand. No chance of doing that with the other calipers.

[toyomoho]

Had something similar on another car, turned out one of the front sensors was damaged when the shop did the brake repairs. The braking had been extremely abrupt!

The ABS system has trouble shooting function built into the computer that can help run down the problem.

Check the sensors for damage, open or shorted wires, installed correctly and that the front of the sensor is clean.

The sensor should use an encoding wheel on the axle shaft to help generate sensor signals. Make sure the sensor is installed OK and aligned with this wheel on the axle. The sensor should operate independent of the brake caliper as it works off the axle.

[preacherzson]

I've been running a check engine light for an 02 sensor since before I did the brakes. I didn't even think to have the car rescanned for this problem...duh. Thanks.

[preacherzson]

I had it rescanned and there is no code for the ABS; only the O2 sensor.

It did it again on the way back from a wedding and then progressed to squealing and heating up one rotor (Front driver) really badly. Fortunately, it happened about 3 minutes from my house, so I was able to make it home okay. The squealing just kept getting louder and louder though.

I decided to replace the other 3 calipers ( I replaced the rear pass when I did the brake pads bc a slide pin was seized/I stripped the head/had to hacksaw it to get the pads out). That was a little bit of a fiasco; I let the master cylinder run dry, and then tried to bleed it by undoing the brake lines, blocking the outlets, and having the wife pump the pedal gently (alldatadiy procedure)

Well, all I got from that is sprayed in the face with brake fluid...Apparently my wife has a lead foot. Fortunately, my reflexes did their job, and none of the brake fluid got in my eyes. I'd recommend that no one else ever try the alldatadiy method... getting the line closest to the firewall screwed back in is near impossible...but finally I got it back on.

Got that done, did the brake bleed with my wife, and took the car out for a test drive around town.

Two problems:
1. The pedal feels soft now; seems like the pedal is mush until about halfway down and then the brakes start to work. You never know they're working by how soft the pedal is, but the car slows down.
2. But now, my Rear Pass rotor is smoking hot...literally smoking. I pulled over to the side of the road to get out and check all the rotors, and the grease was cooking out from between the shim plate and the rear pass brake pad...just sizzling...like bacon, but without the yummy smell.

Any ideas what's up with:
a. the soft 1/2 way down before it seems to activate pedal, and
b. the cooking back rotor/caliper/brake pad?

[toyomoho]

You need to bleed the master cylinder. The basic idea is to disconnect the brake lines from the cylinder, pump the brake similar to bleeding the slaves. You can use your fingers to block off the ports when retracting the pedal or reroute the fluid back into the reservoir somehow

Once done re-bleed the brakes.

Find the diagnostic connector in the engine compartment. May be a small plastic box, driver’s side near the strut tower. Or use the ODBII port.

Jump the Tc and E1 terminals then turn on the ign. If the ABS light blinks other then a steady series of equal flashes you have a code stored. The code has two numerals, as in 7 flashes-pause-2 flashes = code 72. If more then one code they will flash in sequence then repeat.

[preacherzson]

You need to bleed the master cylinder... You can use your fingers to block off the ports when retracting the pedal or reroute the fluid back into the reservoir somehow

Stupid question- so in sequential order, I
1. undo the lines from the MC,
2. pump the brakes and let fluid bleed out,
3. hold the brake depressed,
4. block the lines with my fingers
5. then what? keep the brake depressed as I screw the brake lines back in? (won't air get in when I release my fingers from the outlet holes?)
6. release the pedal after the lines are installed

I tried this before by undoing the lines, blocking them, and having my wife pump the brake- and all I got was sprayed in the face. Obviously, I didn't grasp how to perform the MC bleed. What currently has me puzzled is how I am supposed to keep the air out as I re-install the lines.

Can I get away with just loosening the lines instead of completely removing them? It took me forever to get the line closest to the firewall back in, so I have no clue how I would keep the air from getting back in while I was wrestling with that.

Got any tips or tricks?

[ronnibbee]

please assist me in getting a 34 pin diagram for (1997) Toyota tercel ABS computer

[TedL]

I'm hardcore DIY, but this isn't something to screw with. You should seriously consider bringing it to a local pro. Bleeding air from an ABS unit can be really, really difficult, especially without a pressure bleeder to give a good, steady flow rate.