Hey guys,
I'm about to do a brake job on my car. I planning on changing the front rotors and brake pads. Are there any special procedure I should know before I start ?
Any fluids I need to flush when doing the brake job ?
Thanks
You don't need to flush any fluids.
You'll need 2 14mm wrenches. Once you remove the wheel, you'll need to ge behind the caliper and remove the lower bolt. The one on top you just need to loosen it. You then lift up the caliper, it swings up like a garage door.
You'll need to get a piston pusher to push the piston back, it's about $10 at Pep Boys.
Take out the old pads, save the thin metal brackets that's on the pads, you'll need those.
You should be able to pull out the rotors. You can have the rotors resurfaced, it's cheaper, or you can buy new ones. Put the new rotors, pads w/bracket... use squeal stopper paste (after cleaning them with brake cleaners) and put the pads back.
You then lower the caliper, put the lower bolt back on and tighten the top one. That's pretty much it.
You don't need to bleed your lines unless you have air in them. If you do, you'll need a 10mm wrench to loosen the nipple. You'll also need a buddy so they can pump the pedal while you control the "bleeding". Once you get the air out, tighten it, replace fluid if neccessary.
I love working on disc brakes. So easy. Drum brakes are a different story, I hate them. That's why I always try to buy cars with all discs.
You don't need to flush any fluids.
You'll need 2 14mm wrenches. Once you remove the wheel, you'll need to ge behind the caliper and remove the lower bolt. The one on top you just need to loosen it. You then lift up the caliper, it swings up like a garage door.
You'll need to get a piston pusher to push the piston back, it's about $10 at Pep Boys.
Take out the old pads, save the thin metal brackets that's on the pads, you'll need those.
You should be able to pull out the rotors. You can have the rotors resurfaced, it's cheaper, or you can buy new ones. Put the new rotors, pads w/bracket... use squeal stopper paste (after cleaning them with brake cleaners) and put the pads back.
You then lower the caliper, put the lower bolt back on and tighten the top one. That's pretty much it.
You don't need to bleed your lines unless you have air in them. If you do, you'll need a 10mm wrench to loosen the nipple. You'll also need a buddy so they can pump the pedal while you control the "bleeding". Once you get the air out, tighten it, replace fluid if neccessary.
I love working on disc brakes. So easy. Drum brakes are a different story, I hate them. That's why I always try to buy cars with all discs.
What am i cleaning with the brake cleaner ? Where do i apply the squeal stopper paste. I don't think that paste was applied last time my brakes were done bc it has this loud sqeak when i slowly release my brake while at a stop.
How do I get the rotors out without damaging them ? They're kinda stuck on there pretty good.
How do you know when you need to bleed your fluid lines and where is this " nipple " located at
Sorry, im kinda of a noob but I like having the satisifaction of doing things myself.
typical procedures are usually to spray some brake cleaner onto the rotors, avoid contact with any rubber lines (brake lines) and/or just tap the rotor hub with the hammer or the side where the vents are) to break some of the rusts off
my rotors usually just come off as soon as i take the caliper mounting plates off
What am i cleaning with the brake cleaner ? Where do i apply the squeal stopper paste. I don't think that paste was applied last time my brakes were done bc it has this loud sqeak when i slowly release my brake while at a stop.
How do I get the rotors out without damaging them ? They're kinda stuck on there pretty good.
How do you know when you need to bleed your fluid lines and where is this " nipple " located at
Sorry, im kinda of a noob but I like having the satisifaction of doing things myself.
With the brake cleaner, you're cleaning the plates that go behind the brake pads.
You put the squeal stopper paste between the pads and the plate. The paste isn't neccessary, however, it stops your brakes from squealing like a pig, it gets annoying.
To get the rotor out without damaging anything, you can tap around it with a rubber mallet, or get a piece of wood, place the wood on the rotor and hit the wood with a regular hammer. The wood acts as a cushion. If that don't work spray a shitload of WD40 around the rusted areas and continue the next day. Save yourself the stress.
If your brakes feel spongy, then you need to bleed your lines. Some people recycle the brake fluid and put it back in the reservoir, I don't. Fluid is cheap and you don't run the risk of putting contaminated fluid in your system.
BTW, if you can, buy OEM pads. The cheap stuff from Pep Boys usually don't last as long and IMO doesn't stop as hard.
With the brake cleaner, you're cleaning the plates that go behind the brake pads.
You put the squeal stopper paste between the pads and the plate. The paste isn't neccessary, however, it stops your brakes from squealing like a pig, it gets annoying.
To get the rotor out without damaging anything, you can tap around it with a rubber mallet, or get a piece of wood, place the wood on the rotor and hit the wood with a regular hammer. The wood acts as a cushion. If that don't work spray a shitload of WD40 around the rusted areas and continue the next day. Save yourself the stress.
If your brakes feel spongy, then you need to bleed your lines. Some people recycle the brake fluid and put it back in the reservoir, I don't. Fluid is cheap and you don't run the risk of putting contaminated fluid in your system.
BTW, if you can, buy OEM pads. The cheap stuff from Pep Boys usually don't last as long and IMO doesn't stop as hard.
Thanks for the awesome guides and pictures ! Right now I have rear Bendix pad and rotors from advance auto parts and front Bendix pads. I think I will put front bendix rotors just to make it match. I was planning to change it to brand new stock rotors but the stealership is charing $100 per rotor and I can get two bendix rotors for that price. Only thing I hate about the bendix rotors is that it rusts like crazy and there are crazy brake dusts from the bendix pads.
Thanks for the awesome guides and pictures ! Right now I have rear Bendix pad and rotors from advance auto parts and front Bendix pads. I think I will put front Bendix rotors just to make it match. I was planning to change it to brand new stock rotors but the stealership is charing $100 per rotor and I can get two Bendix rotors for that price. Only thing I hate about the Bendix rotors is that it rusts like crazy and there are crazy brake dusts from the Bendix pads.
Go to the OEM Toyota pads, they really do work best.
If not those - be sure to buy CERAMIC brakes ((NO DUST!))- not semi-metallic or organic.
I have about 65,000 miles on mine, and still going strong.
As for rotors - Bendix is good, Brembro's are excellent, and not much more - around $37@ shipped HERE.
Brakes are important, don't shave dollars there.
Last edited by Riick; 06-06-2008 at 08:14 AM.
Reason: more
i use oem semi-ceramic/metallic. A pair lasted over 70k. I chose oem semi's because it "supposedely" gives a little more bite due to the metal. I have new pairs of akebono full ceramic, but havent had the need to replace my current brake pads yet.
Go to the OEM Toyota pads, they really do work best.
If not those - be sure to buy CERAMIC brakes ((NO DUST!))- not semi-metallic or organic.
I have about 65,000 miles on mine, and still going strong.
As for rotors - Bendix is good, Brembro's are excellent, and not much more - around $37@ shipped HERE.
Brakes are important, don't shave dollars there.
Would the OEM brake rotors be better than the brembro ? Which brake pad are you using now ? If you get ceramic pad, don't you have to buy rotors that support ceramic rotors as well ? because i know that bendix makes another rotors for ceramic pads.
i use oem semi-ceramic/metallic. A pair lasted over 70k. I chose oem semi's because it "supposedely" gives a little more bite due to the metal. I have new pairs of akebono full ceramic, but havent had the need to replace my current brake pads yet.
Which rotors are you using now ? Wouldn't you have to change the rotors to rotors that support ceramic if you use the akebono ? So full ceramic don't have any brake dust at all ? And does ceramic perform better or wost than semi ?
in order to use the new pads, you just have to resurface the rotors to remove the previous brake film/layer on the rotors (assuming the rotors are within spec) I use oem rotors for now. I dont recommend cross drilled/slotted at all if you got an avalon. If you were racing and require hard braking every time you step on the brakes, then maybe. I'd say more rotor contact surface = better overall braking.
full ceramic still has dust, the ceramic material has to go somewhere. it's not that noticeable and sticks less to the wheels, thus you dont see dust as much as metallic brakes.
Ceramic and semi ceramic/metallic has its perks. Full ceramic should last longer than semi but the initial brake bite isn't as hard. Think of contact to contact aka metal/metal or ceramic/metal; which would give off more friction. Different manufacturers use different mixes when it comes to their pads and they usually only lists material but not the concentration of each material. i guess it would be part trial-and-error
i had my oem pad relaced at around 75k. well, actually my brother had them replaced because he wanted to learn how to change brake pads himself. at 75k, when we took the pads out, it still was not worn out. Since then, i've put another 50k on these oem pads and they still have more than half left.
Also clean and lubricate the caliper mounting pins(bolts), remounting with proper torque.
Does that model require the removal of the brace/bracket to remove the rotor? Some do.
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